Door Lock Problems

I have a 2000 Tundra SR5 Extended Cab that has problems with the door locks on the passenger and driver side.

Symptoms

1. The key fob can lock and unlock the passenger door
2. The key fob cannot unlock nor lock the driver door
3. The car key can unlock, but not lock the driver door.
4. The car key can lock, but not unlock the passenger door.

I am thoroughly confused on this one and am fishing for any advice or hints. Thanks!

 

Have you checked for either an (A) aftermarket alarm or (B) a dealer-installed garbage alarm, like KARR, SECURIKEY+ or other?

Any signs of random wires or black boxes up under the driver's side of the dash?

 

No, I haven't checked for alarms. Are you implying that the symptoms could be related to the security system?

No signs of random wires or black boxes.

 

Your truck has the RS3000 system for security door lock/unlock. More info on that system can be found on this page by searching for "RS3000".

A lot of dealerships, especially in the SW USA, were (and still do) charge for dealer-installed security systems. I named the two popular ones above. This was done, despite the factory system being adequate, and after 10-15 years, either the piss-poor install or the electronics failing resulted in weird crap happening, not limited to the types of symptoms you're seeing with remote lock/unlock. I haven't seen anyone here yet complain about the key-in-door stuff you're seeing, but that's not to say it isn't related. Usually after install, they'd shove the box either up under the driver's side dash cover, or behind in the driver's side kick panel, or in that vicinity.

That said, the first thing I'd be doing is checking out some of the RS3000 threads, the big one on programming shows a picture of where the RS3000 brain box is located. I'd try to track that unit down in your truck just to confirm if there.

There's also an issue with the RS3000 remotes - assuming yours is an original OEM remote - where they have issues with grounding out against the PCB inside. I'm pretty sure that info is linked in that cluster of RS3200 threads too.

I'd probably look at the electrical wiring diagrams (linked on the 5th line of that thread above) to see how it's connected, there's always a possibility one of the door actuators is going out and it's somehow wired in a way that impact the others. Or maybe you need to lube some stuff up because it's hanging. I've even seen lock/unlock failures happen due to extra pressure on the door latch itself back when I worked at a shop that did alarm installs an eternity ago.

It could also just be that your RS3000 unit is failing. I can't imagine it'd be difficult to find a replacement from a junkyard out of another '00-'01-'02 truck you could swap in. Access is easy enough.

The key-in-door unlocking stuff is what's throwing me here. And why I'd lean towards the RS3000 unit going out. But I don't have ideas for how you could dig on that. It'd be more time-effective to confirm you have the unit, find a replacement unit, swap it in and see if it fixes the problem. *IF* you're certain nobody had another alarm in that thing at any point, and left behind a relay in the door (the big yellow/white wires and black relay hanging) - which you wouldn't know about until you get the door off (sometimes installers put them inside the cab, near wire bundle passing thru the door jamb).

Water damage into the dash fuse box is semi-common also, but you'd likely be seeing more than only the doors doing stupid crap if it were the case.

If you're looking for a sure-fire cause, I can't think of what it would be. But the above is where I'd be hunting. And if you have a JY nearby, getting a new RS3000 module would be a quick/easy fix. It'd need to be a pre-2003 truck, either cab type

 

Post a picture of your remote just to make sure it is the correct original remote. As for the key, your key may be worn out. The dealer will cut you a new key from your VIN number with proof of ownership for about $15.

 

... and thanks for the worn out key idea. I'll check/compare my spare key ... if I can find it

 

This is not the OEM remote, this is an aftermarket key fob. You sure there's no aftermarket alarm? I'm going to look this one up, but I'm fairly certain this would be tied to some other security system, and you may want to start digging a little harder up under the dash and in the kick panels for a brain zip-tied up somewhere.

Edit: Looks like this is most commonly associated with Magnadyne alarm products, the SVSS / Magnadyne Carbine and/or Silencer. And based on the age, it'd be older than 10yrs, which is really the floor for longevity on these cheaper systems.

Some of the black boxes you see on this page may be what you'll be hunting for under the dash. A lot of installers like to zip-tie shock sensors to the steering column, and will zip-tie transponders (and/or brain boxess) up in the dash, or stuff into the kick panel, tie up behind the fusebox since a lot of runs you need to intercept to make the alarm work are there.

Maybe shoot us some pics of those locations, and other pairs of eyes can point out what you need to be looking at?

 

My security system doesn't have an audible alarm - it's an anti-theft system that will keep the truck from starting under certain conditions.

The anti-theft system functions as such:

• If the FOB has been used to lock the doors, then the truck cannot be started unless the FOB is used to unlock the doors.
• If the doors are locked manually or with the key (i.e., not the FOB), the truck can be started if the key or the FOB is used to unlock the door.

This anti-theft system was already installed when I bought it used from my Toyota dealership back in 2002.

 

Think about it - this alarm has to tap into the door lock circuit or it can't possibly know what's up. So you basically have a little PCB inline that's not only spliced into the door circuit, but also spliced into the ignition circuit to stop the truck from starting based on what it's sensing across the door circuit. Be happy you're not seeing what other folks often see - no-start conditions.

Yup, and a total waste of money. And your symptoms are on-part typical with what happens with an aftermarket, non-Toyota alarm that is more than 10-15 years old.

It's not a Toyota product. Have someone with alarm industry experience remove the alarm system, and replace with a proper RS3000 alarm fob that's programmed per the instructions in the thread I linked above, and you should be golden.