Door molding/rub guard: how attached?

The molding/rub guard on my Tundra came off and I need to reattach it. Are the pins on the molding secured inside the door with some sort of fastener or do the pins simply locate the molding. Put in another way is the molding secured to the door entirely with the two sided tape (I'm assuming 3M VHB or something similar)?



Thanks.

 

I believe it's both. Double-sided tape and plastic clips but I can't seem to find a part # for the clips. Might just be tape.

 

Never dealt with it but going by your pic and pic of used trim for your year for sale on fleabay, I would assume the pins are simply for placement/guide and the 3M or equivalent adhesive is the actual bonding material.

 

That would confirm why I couldn't find a part# on the diagrams.

 

This is the stuff you'll want to buy to reinstall: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/search/?Ntt=super+strength+molding+tape

Don't order it on scAmazon, you're liable to get knockoffs, and I'm not kidding or being snarky with that comment. You may actually be able to find locally, maybe even at the LAPS.

I'd measure the width on the residual tape to get the right width. But generally speaking, the 3M authentic super strength molding tape will add it on and hold it on. Clean the surface well, and read the instructions on the pack you'll do fine.

 

You really think things like 3M molding tape could be counterfeit? I've definitely seen/heard the stories, but don't have a great understanding of how in-depth it is. Is it acceptable to buy items and designate the seller it's coming from, and choose a real, reputable one?

 

How on earth did it sheer off anyway? Those thing don't just pop off unlike my wheel arch trim which rots and falls off.

 

3m molding tape, did that to mine

 

I made the mistake twice already. Once with an ultra-reflective red reflector tape 3M manufactures. The other with those little clear rubber cabinet door bumpers 3M manufacturers, the ones you put on the corners of the door for softer closing.

Both came in zip-top baggies with the typical scAmazon bar code versus traditional packaging, but I was ultra-picky about which seller I purchased from. Both are products I've purchased in the past from other sources.

2-3 years later, the bumpers are gooey sludge. It'll take an hour to clean all the crap off and put authentic bumpers on. To contrast, the original bumpers I used on a different set of doors are still intact after 10+ years. The red reflective tape delaminated within 3 months of being on the bed of my old truck, then adhesive failure.

Both products had the 3M logo on the backings and in the usual telltale marks of an authentic product. The only red flag was it not coming in a retail package, but even that gets faked with spark plugs etc. I assumed they split up 3M's usual bulk package to resell, but clearly this was a bunk product based on longevity.

So yes. The reality is, if they can fake it, and easily, they will. It's pure profit to put shit products out. They usually target high-volume brand name products that are easily overlooked.

I did and still got burned. I've given up on buying any products on scAmazon that can easily be faked. They don't store inventory for each individual seller separately, that would take far too much warehouse space. They make no efforts to check for counterfeits, they'd need to raise prices to cover their overhead for that.

They're so damn big at this point the just DGAF and can rely on sales volume to stay alive and they allow vendors to request removal of negative reviews. It's super scammy. It's gotten to the point where I'm OK with paying the little bit extra at my local brick-and-mortar store.

 

3M body molding tape + use 3M adhesion promoter on both surfaces the tape will be applied to. Let the promoter liquid dry before applying tape. The promoter will ensure the molding's ends won't bow up but will stay attached to trk's body until purposely removed. Was watching the aforesaid "how it's done right" process while visiting a friend and told the moldings are guaranteed to not come off by themselves again.

Knowledge results from a 5 star small family body shop in Davie FL doing a hack paint job in addition to not using good tape or adhesion promoter on a trk's molding. The friend was promised and paid for a professional job with lifetime paint but instead was hosed but good afterward. So, rather than going back to the too cheap to do it right body shop to fix issue three months after paint job, the owner pulled all the body moldings and put them on right himself. Two to three years later they're still strongly attached as if done by Toyota, or a quality shop.

 

I don't believe any trauma was involved. One day it started peeling off and I removed to reinstall. None of the others show any signs of releasing. 230K generally gentle miles. I really can't say why this one decided to depart the truck.

 

^^^ If the other moldings are stuck on as good as a young person's teeth are stuck in their jaws, door might have had dent repair or incurred paint issue causing respray. Afterward cheap tape w/o adhesion promoter on the molding was used for reattachment. If not, like teeth, when one naturally fails to stick the others will follow suit.

 

That makes a lot of sense. In this case, I bought this truck from a friend who bought it in 2005 so most of the history is known to me and door repair is not part of it, but I don't trust anyone's memory going back 15 years.

Thanks for the tips on the adhesion promoter. I've got some 3M adhesive remover that I plan to use to remove the existing tape. I was not aware of the adhesion promoter.

$17 3M Adhesive Remover, Helps Remove Tar, Attachment Tape & Bumper Sticker Adhesive, 12 oz., 1 aerosol

https://www.amazon.com/3M-03618-Adhesive-Remover-oz/dp/B000BQYA7W

 

Just beware...I used adhesive remover for the same application on my Pathfinder. It removed the adhesive residue nicely, but also the paint (if you're impatient or over zealous like me).

 

Thanks. I'm about the most impatient person on the planet. It doesn't always end well.

 

I've heard similar with the Turtle Wax product, though I've never actually experienced it myself. I *have* had it soften and haze metallic paints with clearcoat, though, so as with anything, test in an inconspicuous area first. After cleaning with soap and water, then letting the clearcoat re-harden, I was able to buff and polish the haze out.

Other advice for @jimf909 - on scAmazon there's about 50 variants of these plastic razor kits, they're really worthwhile. I bought my kit from "EHDIS" which looks like the pic below. It's great for removing adhesive, BUT you need to make sure you keep the blade at a tight angle to the paint, 15deg or or less. No adhesive remover required, use a light oil, even olive oil works, rub onto the paint, and go to work.

If you have a leather strop, it's worth honing the plastic razor before 1st use, then after every few minutes of work. Be sure to flip it around and don't hesitate to chuck one. I went through about 5 of them on each side when taking the rotten clear bras off my fender flares.

 

Clarifying this point I bolded with two key bits.

The blade has an edge on both sides versus steel blades that have only one side. You can rotate the blade in the holder 180deg if the 1st side gets dull.

It's also important to mention, if my memory is working right, the blades aren't double-cut, they're only cut on one side. If that's correct, it's important the flat/uncut side of the blade is facing down towards the paint.

You also need to be aware of how you install the blade to the holder for that reason, because pressure pushes/holds the blade in, so if you don't have it oriented correctly, the blade will pop out.

 

Goo Gone would be a mild remover compared to your 3M if the 3M actually removes the paint, but their advertisement and pics of it's use on paint indicates it won't. If it does, then Removes Paint would be on the label. The molding, however, covers both upper and lower narrow lengths where the tape is stuck on the the body, and allows for any mistakes under the molding area. Want to play it really safe, just tape the outer edge where the molding goes with painters tape to protect paint outside of molding.

Don't forget, before applying the adhesion promoter clean both surfaces with alcohol.

 

Well that's good to know. I'm going to be changing by order habits going forward. I don't even get the benefits of next day shipping so might as well.