Double Cardan Joint?

In the process of obtaining parts for carrier bearing (loose) and total rear propeller u-joints replacement while the prop is dropped.

2002 Tundra AC SR5 4WD 160k miles. Some towing/hauling. Some 4 wheeling.

Called stealership parts and and gave my VIN (bought truck there) and they did not mention the fact of this truck having 3 types of u-joints (2 Spicer outside ‘d-clip’, 2 Double Cardan outside ‘c-clip’, and 2 inside ‘c-clip’)

Front propeller 4wd look like Spicer with ‘D-clips’ on outside. (Not replacing these joints).

The question is here.

Rear prop at transfer case connection and at far rear diff connection look like similiar to each other with ‘inside clips’ joints of the same type. These are different than the 4wd front prop joints.

The middle u-joints at the carrier bearing have an outside ‘C-clip’ and there are 2 side by side. Double Cardan? See Picture.

I want to DIY this thing. Advice on the double cardan is needed as a search here and elsewhere online is confusing. Dealership Parts Dept. is useless to me. Thanks in advance.


Double Cardan?


Close up of stamp of double cardan

 

Are you asking if that is a double cardan joint? It is if so.

 

Thank you. You have any tips on DIY replace?

 

Went through this on my 3rd gen 4runner as well. It too had a double cardan joint.

You have a double cardan per that picture.

It was more coat effective and made more sense (I had very limited time to work on anything when I owned that vehicle) to have Tom Woods build the driveshaft i wanted.

If my memory is correct, the DC on the 4runner shaft wasn't serviceable anyway once it was shot. The center pivot ball on mine was binding.

 

Its just 2 u joints. Swap them like any other u joints. Mark the shaft to keep everything in line.

 

The more reading I do, the more your words here make sense. I’ve read posts on these types cardan joints from back in early 2000’s of guys with pretty good mechanical experience saying how much headache the cardans are. The problem is once you get the joint open and see that center pivot ball is where things go south fast. This is what I’m trying to avoid. Like you, I want to avoid down time.

I did call the ‘Heavy Truck Service Center’ nearby a few months ago and spoke with a mechanic and he did mention that some of these 2002 Tundras have the double cardan and now that I reflect back on the conversation he sounded like they were a pita! I’ll call him again now that its refreshed in my memory. My plan then was to drop the shaft and bring it to the Truck Shaft Division as they specialize in propellers. Might still do this to avoid headaches.

Anyone else feel free to chime in.

 

There are double u-joints, but a true double cardan has a center ball that pivots and aligns the 2 u-joints. If the ball has failed you have issues. Even if the ball didn't fail it still complicates the rebuild process. Parts availability, finding people that actually want to touch them, all issues. I've done plenty of u-joints, but after watching a couple videos I decided I wasn't attempting it in my garage.

Limiting downtime and not spending an entire weekend rebuilding a driveshaft is what lead me to Tom Woods. Driveshaft showed up complete and I swapped it in. All the Woods shafts are overbuilt and far superior to anything OEM.

I too had a great heavy truck shop right up the road from my house. I trusted their lead mechanic and he was an acquaintance. When he looked at it and said "no, just buy a new shaft, too many variables that can lead to it failing again", was when I started looking for other options.

 

I'd do that. In my experience with u joints they either go exactly as planned or everything goes to shit.

Last few I take the shaft to the shop, have a cup of coffee and pay the man.

 

Drive shaft are one of those scary things I don't like to mess with. If it isn't damaged I would leave it.

 

http://www.4xshaft.com

Figure out what your joints will cost and then figure out what your time is worth to you.....then call Tom.

 

i know and agree, just skipped to assuming he was replacing u joints from the first post. I’ve had a few Tom Woods driveshaft as well, good stuff.

 

I have on on my T100, the ball with pin went out, couldn't replace no one wanted to fix, just replaced whole thing

 

What did you replace with, oe or aftermarket? I’m super of that T100, love them.

 

Aftermarket, nearby specialty driveshaft shop had one in stock

 

Thanks again for everyones advice. I’ll mull everything over and make some calls to a few shops like the local Heavy Truck place again, my corner mechanic, and the stealership again.

Good thing is there is no problem other than the center carrier bearing having a bit of play in it when pushed on. Outside of that, no problems or noises during driving. I’ve greased the zerks recently.

Figured that while carrier bearing gets replaced at some point that all the u-joints should be replaced at the same time, as well.

I’ll assume if it ain’t broke don’t fix it, but will know what to do if it does break. Will keep everyone posted.

Anyone else feel free to share advice here. Thank you.

 

I read that thread of yours in the search here. Little bit of hassle working through it out of town. Finally, you were stoked with that find.

 

Gonna start showing more love to the T100, the front driveshaft on the 4wd will be replaced it too is a dbl cardan, upper/lower ball joints, both CV axles, new rotors drums pads n shoes, all gaskets, plugs wires

 

I wanted a T100 so bad before the Tundra came out. Still would love to have one.

 

Make me an offer

 

Called stealership first thing this morning and spoke with the parts lady. She said they do not sell the parts for the double cardan joint. Only the two end joints.

Hung up and called the Truck Center guy I spoke with last month and he was super helpful. He said most (95%) of the Tundra prop joints that come in that the double cardan joints are still solid. Its the end joints that are problematic. He said to just keep them greased and you should be fine.

He can get the special cardan joints locally and they have/can do them with no problems.

My strategy is going to be to not mess with the double cardan unless its a problem when I pull the propeller. I do plan on doing the 2 end joints. I’ll remove the prop and take it up to the Truck Center and let them do the Carrier Bearing and two end joints install. Bring it home and bolt it back up.

From what I’ve read these double cardan joints are super strong and durable. It sounds best to not mess around if they aren’t broken.

 

As best as I can see, Toyota doesn’t sell that rear sliding propeller shaft or the ‘H’ Cardan joint either.

Guess the conclusion is if the prop or yokes break its all new propeller time. I’ll be greasing zerks religiously from now on.

 

How many miles on the driveshaft?

 

159k. Some towing and hauling loads. 285/75/r16.

 

My stock shaft on my 4runner went out at 186k, failure of the pivot ball on the double cardan. Every other joint was fine, but replaced by previous owner around 120k.

Something to think about before you put money and effort into your stock shaft. Would be a real bummer to have the DC fail in 30-40k miles.

Price some aftermarket units. You'll be surprised when the price is almost identical to having someone rebuild your stocker, I know I was.

 

Called Heavy Service Drive Shaft Shop and spoke with the tech to reconfirm everything concerning the upcoming Carrier Bearing and U-Joint re-build.

He can get the special Cardan Joints (Toy used 3 types that year), as well as the center ball (could be 12mm or 13mm depending on what Toy put on as they used both sizes that year). He has the ball and spring in stock on the shelf. The Cardan joints on mine are a C-Clip (Outside Clip) and need special order (one day lead time).

Total cost for re-build at shop is $150-180 (labor plus 4 joints and ball/spring). I drop the shaft and bring it in and provide them with the TOY OEM Carrier Bearing (already purchased for $135).

Total overall cost will be $285-$315. (Shop plus OEM Bearing).

Priced out a new shaft from that link above that someone posted to compare a rebuild versus a new shaft. That shaft place wants anywhere from $450-650 depending on types and levels of finish. I’d also have to measure bolt patterns and angles and such.

Easier and better to just do rebuild IMO.

 

Update. Never did a thing with the Double Cardan or other associated joints. Only replaced the Carrier Bearing with OEM Toy. Took about 3 hours. Been greasing the zerks on all the joints and everything is working nicely.

 

Hello I have a 2001 tundra stock, I made the mistake of trying to replace the DC ujoints without them really needing attention. My ball joint is healthy. So realistically I have been on the search for part numbers and dimensions for my ujoints that are the outside clip version.

Koyo was the original manufacturer, with that said it has been incredibly difficult to navigate their catalogue or find anything in the same realm through them.

Here are the two that I have found that have worked for Tacoma owners, and their DC’s.

(I have yet to order them yet because I am trying to figure out if they will work for my tundra. The ones I got from Napa - the cap fit in my yoke though the length or (outside lockup was too long)

Here are the manufacturers and the part numbers. For !!!!!!!!OUTSIDE CLIP ONLY!!!!!!!

Rockford Driveline #(K)2540
Cap diameter 1.065
Outside lockup 3.198
Price $23.00 and change

Powertrain industries #1351-25
Cap diameter 1.063
Outside lockup (unknown at this time)
Price $40.00 and change

If anyone here can tell me if the yoke sizes on the DC joint for the 1st gen tundras and the 1st gen Tacoma’s (mostly 98-2004)
Are the same than I think we can almost definitely say that these ujoints can save Toyota owners a ton of money and headache

Thanks all. If more info is needed to determine anything just ask. New here and dying to work through this issue best I can!