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Driver Door won't open from outside or inside

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Orange devil, Apr 3, 2021.

  1. Apr 3, 2021 at 10:36 AM
    #1
    Orange devil

    Orange devil [OP] New Member

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    It's been a year now ,one day could not open the door to get out .power lock seemed to work fine. Went around outside and door handle outside would not open it either .it's a 2001 sr5 extended Access cab.
     
  2. Apr 3, 2021 at 11:26 AM
    #2
    Darkness

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    Mine is getting the same way. I'm going to take off the latch assembly and try to trouble shoot before it won't open at all. From what I learned if it gets to that point you might have to remove the panel of the rear door (without opening it) and cut the catch out from there. That seems really hard to do.

    Here is the video I am checking out. He has another where he explains what he went through to get his door opened. Good luck.

     
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  3. Apr 3, 2021 at 2:05 PM
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    Darkness

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    Taking the latch assembly out and stuck at the handle. I got the lower pink one out (door lock) but how am I supposed to disconnect the upper yellow one here? The rod looks to be pressed in and has an arrow head shape.

    @empty_lord @Professional Hand Model @Jack McCarthy any advice on this before I snap it?
    20210403_140331.jpg
     
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  4. Apr 3, 2021 at 2:15 PM
    #4
    Orange devil

    Orange devil [OP] New Member

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    It takes force..but pull it straight out now
     
  5. Apr 3, 2021 at 2:17 PM
    #5
    Orange devil

    Orange devil [OP] New Member

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    Also might be a good idea to take off the two 10MM bolts that that hold the handle in place so you can remove it out of the door to have better access to it .
     
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  6. Apr 3, 2021 at 2:22 PM
    #6
    Darkness

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    @Orange devil were you able to get yours out? I have the handle out but I don't see a way to force it. The plastic tab on the female end might break if I go harder. I would thing the rid would slide out of the nylon part easier than this.
    20210403_142015.jpg
     
  7. Apr 3, 2021 at 2:28 PM
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    Darkness

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    Broke the clip. Now, does the window track need to come out to get the latch assembly out? I'm ready to kill the engineer if so.
     
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  8. Apr 3, 2021 at 2:38 PM
    #8
    Orange devil

    Orange devil [OP] New Member

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    Yeah I took both door panels off from the inside ..took my mini di grinder and cut of the welded bolts that hold on the Door catch..doors are now opened
     
  9. Apr 3, 2021 at 2:39 PM
    #9
    Orange devil

    Orange devil [OP] New Member

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    I did take the window tack out as well
     
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  10. Apr 3, 2021 at 2:41 PM
    #10
    Darkness

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    I unbolted the lower bolt on the window track and was able to pull the thing out. Did you take the whole track out? I would rather do that than bend it up trying to put this back in.

    Now that its out I see a lot of play where the rods meet the lever that opens the latch. Not sure if I can repair it yet.
     
  11. Apr 3, 2021 at 2:49 PM
    #11
    Orange devil

    Orange devil [OP] New Member

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    Yes ..both the upper and lower bolts for the track..these trucks are not the easiest to find replacement parts at the junk yard by the way
     
  12. Apr 3, 2021 at 3:27 PM
    #12
    BubbaW

    BubbaW Blessed 2 B above Ground

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    Luis, while this guy lacks in some areas, it is the video I've been reviewing because my fnt passenger is beyond lube. I agree with you about the engineer tho, way too much has to come off to do it properly but will buy a box of patience at Wally Wirl and slowly proceed. At 9:30 of video he had same issue with the stuck rod but he also had the whole assembly out in his hands

    How to Replace Front Door Lock Actuator 00-07 Toyota Highlander - YouTube
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2021
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  13. Apr 3, 2021 at 3:32 PM
    #13
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    This was a good vid right here. I’ll watch his other later about getting the door detached.
     
  14. Apr 3, 2021 at 3:34 PM
    #14
    Darkness

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    Thanks @BubbaW I watched that one, that confirmed window track needed to move.

    @Orange devil i got my assembly out and looks like there is too much play at the pivot, same as the video I posted. I'm going to try to find a c clip to stuff in the pivot and also bend the tab if I can to get more leverage. If that doesn't work on the bench then I might just order up a new assembly, at least I'm not paying labor.

    Here is that pivot, when the leverage action moves it goes loose and flops sideways instead of keeping direction and pushing the clasp open.
    20210403_153235.jpg
     
  15. Apr 3, 2021 at 3:46 PM
    #15
    BubbaW

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    Going to Franklin next week and while there, I am going by Coolsprings and buy or order from @Roman and gang. While the door panel is a breeze after all I've done over time, I suspect what I'm going to find after 14 years, it's worth it to go new. Besides, still have stimi money I need to spend

    :yes:
     
  16. Apr 3, 2021 at 5:14 PM
    #16
    Darkness

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    I tried slipping an e clip in that pivot to take up the slack, it took up too much slack and wouldn't allow movement. Rather than play around trying to fab up a clip, I went with plan B and bent the push tab so that it gives more leverage. That worked! I tested the mechanism on the bench (the floor) and it worked fine.

    Wrestled with it for what felt like an eternity and got it back in. Closed the door, opened the door, awesome. Went to lock the door and nothing happened. Faaaaaaawk!

    I like working on suspension, brakes, motors, even stereo shit. I have always hated doors and anything that has to do with doors. Gonna crack a beer and start over before the sun goes down.

    The lock button on the door handle and the key won't budge. Something is binding on the mechanism.
     
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  17. Apr 3, 2021 at 6:36 PM
    #17
    Darkness

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    Figured it out. This little stub on the lock solenoid popped out of the hole in an arm that it pushes. It was butting up against the locking side of the movement, so that the door was stuck unlocked.

    Got it back in by removing the solenoid and putting it back on with the stub in its hole.
    20210403_174728.jpg


    All my door is back together now and I have an extra machine screw. I'll figure that out some other day.
    20210403_183038.jpg

    I would rather install headers blind folded than do this again. Glad it works, hopefully my window track isn't messed up now. I'm not gonna bother lowering it for a while.
     
  18. Apr 3, 2021 at 9:09 PM
    #18
    Orange devil

    Orange devil [OP] New Member

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    I tried to rebuild mine and fuck with it..gave up good thing i ordered a good used one a few weeks back on ebay ..got it back together today after cutting out some old parts..all good now

    20210403_145933.jpg
    20210403_145923.jpg
     
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    #18
  19. Apr 4, 2021 at 4:00 AM
    #19
    Professional Hand Model

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    Screw looks like its either for the door latch cup or there are two similar looking types that go up along the interior edge near the sideview mirror. One has a cover that pops over it and the other is open.

    I should do well with Headers then. I’ve had these door panels off around 6-7 times for various shtuff and its easy now. First couple times were frustrating.


    Sounds like the fix is in the bend.
     
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  20. Apr 4, 2021 at 4:28 AM
    #20
    Professional Hand Model

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    Green Arrows for missing screw.


    upload_2021-4-4_7-27-40.jpg
     
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  21. Apr 4, 2021 at 4:32 AM
    #21
    Professional Hand Model

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    You guys should firm up your window rattle (if yours rattles) with the panels open.

    upload_2021-4-4_7-31-40.jpg
     
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  22. Apr 4, 2021 at 8:52 AM
    #22
    Darkness

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    Yeah those were all accounted for and in their place. Not sure where that extra could have come from. At least the door works again.
     
  23. Apr 4, 2021 at 9:13 AM
    #23
    Jack McCarthy

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    I have yet to take mine apart. Still waiting for the weather to get over 60F continually.
     
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  24. Apr 16, 2021 at 9:44 AM
    #24
    Orange devil

    Orange devil [OP] New Member

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    So nice having the doors working again..thoes plastic clips Throughout the truck caused havoc. First it was the tailgate..the hood then the door ..you know the clips that go on rods ..was thinking there has to be a better way? Possibly eliminate the plastic clips all together..maybe a super small drill bit..drill a hole in the rods and use Small Cotter pin.
     
  25. Apr 16, 2021 at 10:15 AM
    #25
    Darkness

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    Yeah that would be way better. I would prefer any style of metal clip over these brittle plastic retainers.

    I also snapped an ear off the part that the arm for the door handle slips over. I'll live in fear for a while of that just slipping off. I don't really feel like ordering that stupid plastic part.
     
  26. Apr 16, 2021 at 10:32 AM
    #26
    Orange devil

    Orange devil [OP] New Member

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    For like $25 bucks on ebay got a set of these with new clips for the arms ..not bad

    Screenshot_20210416-103019_eBay.jpg
    Screenshot_20210416-102934_eBay.jpg
     
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  27. Apr 16, 2021 at 11:00 AM
    #27
    Darkness

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    Thats a cheap deal. The retainer on that end I also broke but it has enough plastic to hang on firmly. The one I broke that I worry about is where this end of the arm mounts. Its kind of shaped like an arrow. The arm is only holding in place by one side now.

    20210416_105802.jpg
     
  28. Apr 19, 2021 at 4:46 AM
    #28
    Orange devil

    Orange devil [OP] New Member

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    That particular plastic reqruire part is on the door latch unfortunately..could use a good used one from a power or non power one ..ether one would work .
     
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  29. Apr 19, 2021 at 4:50 AM
    #29
    Orange devil

    Orange devil [OP] New Member

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    So I used my tail gate rods as the test subject to eliminate the plastic clips .everything seems to work .had to use a pretty small drill bit and used r clips instead of a cotter pin

    20210418_204758.jpg
     
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  30. Apr 19, 2021 at 7:59 AM
    #30
    Darkness

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    That works way better. Whats that silver flamed car? Looks very nice.
     

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