Engine (Now Failure)stalled after hard acceleration(metal in the oil)repair update

I have a 22 SR5 crew cabTRD Offroad with abou28k miles on it. Never had a single issue with it. A couple days ago I was going from a 25mph to a 55mph zone a stomped on the gas to get up to speed. Think like an on ramp. Once I got up to speed I let of the gas, heard a audible pop, and the engine died. Got the warning, engine stopped low power steering. I pulled over, tried to start it and it acted like that battery was dead and wouldn't turn over. Battery voltage dropped, everything dimmed. My wife was near by so she pulled up and I hooked up the jumper cables. Started up but stalled again. Took two more tries before it stayed running. Drove fine for two days. Went to pull out of a parking lot and I gave it a little extra cause another car pulled out from the other side of the street, and soon as I let off the gas I heard the turbo wind down and it stalled again. Only difference this time is that once I shut it off it did start right back up again. Also the first incident I had a quarter tank, so I filled up and 2nd time the tank was full. Got an appointment right now to have it looked at on Monday at the dealership. There are no current codes or errors.

 

I would keep pushing it harder and harder so it turns into kibbles and bits. That way there’s no, “Oh we can’t reproduce the problem” BS.

 

I'm just hoping they are able to pull some data from the ECU to explain what happened. I've seen similar things happen to some of the brand new tundras but not any that are at anywhere near a similar mileage to mine. And also never much of a remedy or source.

 

I think there is a problem with the bearing failure. It’s made out of cast iron versus aluminum. So the high heat and contraction and being able to displace the heat is making it fail. Here’s a video on it. I have a LX600 so I’m interested in the topic.
https://youtu.be/1XdaccfMxn4?si=YI5O33fm5PhAflDT

 

The tuning is probably more complicated than what it took to put a man on the moon so who knows…I’m wondering if Toyota will have to make a change to oil or fuel recommendations and grandfather everyone else with a new motor if it blows…
My truck had some hesitation after my “free” oil change and recall/update thing.
Lady said, we need to fix you truck cause it might move while in neutral…I just laughed and said, it’s supposed to move In neutral…she had no idea what neutral is tho of course.

 

Looks like you're right. Had the dealership look at it today. Heard some knocking yesterday as well. They found metal shavings in the oil.

 

What’s made out of cast iron?

 

You are this first one I’ve seen saying the heard a noise on hard acceleration before the problem occurred. My guess is clearance isn’t being maintained and you heard the bearing spin - it’s been oil starved ever since. The fact they made a block change just came out - sure would be nice if they would say what has changed.

 

The cover that goes over the crankshaft and the liners

 

That big one piece cradle… that would be interesting.

 

The cradle is aluminum with iron inserts cast in place to support the lower main bearing shells. Most of the previous generation (3UR, 1GR) of Toyota’s aluminum blocks have cast iron main bearing caps. Still, with no info coming from Toyota on the failure mode, it’s worth throwing at the wall.

 

Bummer this happened to you and others @BREAKAW thanks for posting.

 

Excuse me, I was misleading, the bearing liners were swapped from resin plastic ones to metal ones. The inserts were molded into one solid piece of cast iron. Check out the 16:00 timestamp on the video.

 

Good luck and keep us up to date.

Sucks paying that much for a truck and have this happen.

 

Main caps on the V8 are cast iron, not cast aluminum as shown in the video.

 

Well the repairs are underway. The engine has been removed and most of the parts are here and waiting. However, the block is MIA. It left Chicago on the 14th and no one knows where it is and ther is no tracking information.

 

Maybe you should have them toss a locker in the front diff while the engine is out of the way

 

It is interesting they removed the engine without taking off the entire cab like they did on the other trucks.

 

Seems like most pull off the front end rather than pull the cab from what I’ve seen.

 

Anyone knows the part number for these Transmission Support Pads? Are they universal and fit older Toyota trucks? Want to get some in case I need to drop my V8.

 

As far as removing cab vs not... on a relatively new vehicle (body on frame design) with no rusted bolts or fasteners, it's really not a big deal to remove cab or body off of frame, and gives great access to components. NOW if vehicle is older or in the wintertime "salt belt" that's not going to be easy as a lot of bolts and hardware are going to be rusted together and break attempting to disassemble. Therefore extracting engine out of complete vehicle is a better option.

 

Thats 2x4x6-00083 which superceded 00082

 

Well, it seems that 83 is EPA crap that does not hold the transmission out of warranty. Other markets still use old good 82 and can be used on a million miles vehicles. So should I. Thanks for pointing though!

 

Harbor Freight floor jack under 2x4 as well because one of the other clowns in the shop backed over the Snap On floor jacks and f...ed them all up...

 

Same guy who will do the short block into long block?

 

I look at that void and wonder if anyone has tried a V8 swap?

 

No, same guy who's bolting in one of the second go around V35A short blocks...

 

I was waiting for the "LS swap" comments to come up...

 

Have you seen the 5.7L 3UR? Its gigantic.

I was looking at the header install threads and it looks horrifying. There is no rooms on the sides.

Meanwhile my 3.5L Ecoboost was super tiny in the F150 engine bay. I did the manifolds on mine and it took like 1.5 hours to get it out.