Engine shut off while driving...wont restart

Wondering if this happened to anyone else and if so, what the cause may have been..
While driving up a forest road, my steering wheel locked and the engine shut off. The radio and lights were on so it wasn't a battery issue.
When I try to restart the engine, it shuts off immediately after turning on.
Luckily someone on a dirt bike came by who had cell phone reception for roadside assistance. Its dropped off at the dealer for after hours. I'm hoping to hear back tomorrow from the service department. (I already check the wiring and battery terminals, all still look brand new). No electrical mods except for air intake I installed 900 miles ago.
I only have 1,600 miles on the truck, so this is very disappointing.



https://youtu.be/Uj0z4BC57HE

 

Dang that sucks dude. I haven't had this one happen to me, but it didn't look like it was a anti theft (bad key), or a fuel pump issue. Maybe something is wonky in the computer?

 

Probably the battery. Even though the lights were working they take less power vs starting. Bouncing around on the forest roads did it in. Hopefully it’s that simple anyway.

 

Looks like the problem on my beater gmc where it thinks its being stolen as the factory security light flashes. If i wait 10 minutes it starts.

 

Any problems with rodents chewing the wiring?

 

Your truck kroked. lol

 

...following

 

Good luck, keep us posted

 

My guess is the battery.

 

That sucks. I have no idea but sub'ing to hear the outcome?

Not likely. You only need the battery to start the truck. A bad battery will not cause the truck to stall out unless the alternator is bad too.

 

I admire your lack of cussing and yelling. If that was me...

Good luck and I hope it's something minor.

 

You would think, but I’ve seen it before on this forum. #1 Toyoya batteries suck. Although mine is still working fine after over four years. #2 these trucks draw a lot and if there is a dead cell it may not be able to keep up. It maybe possible his key took a shit though.

 

Unless you are running a bunch of aftermarket electronics, the truck shouldn't be pulling from the battery when running. If it is then I think the alternator is undersized?

 

But if the truck can’t even get going long enough for the alternator to catch up that could be a problem. If it’s just starting and stalling right away I feel that could be the battery. Maybe a good test would be jumping the truck off of another vehicle.

 

Mine did this after having the battery disconnected. Not while driving though, just tried to start after connecting the battery again. Only did it for 1 start/ shut off cycle, exact same run amount (about 1 sec of running then died). The second time I tried to start the truck it fired right up. I'm guessing that it is some sort of security feature that went stupid.

 

I hope you can report back about the problem. I'd be interested in hearing the diagnosis. With any luck it will turn out to be something easy to fix that won't return. G'luck!

 

Also following....

 

Exact same thing here when i replaced the stock battery which was still good by the way. I still say security failed.

 

Interested in updates/outcome...

 

If this problem started one morning when he first tried to start it for the first time that day then maybe (although even in that case, there is no alternator catch up time, as soon as the engine starts the alternator takes over) but the OP stated he was driving down the road when his truck just died. No way a bad battery causes that unless you have other problems like a bad alternator.

 

I suspect you just thought that the steering wheel was locked. It could feel like it was locked after the engine stops turning that PS pump. The steering wheel lock is a mechanical function after the shift selector is in Park, and the ignition switch is turned off.

Unrelated to your problem, but something for all of us to remember: I found out yesterday that if the battery is disconnected (or stone dead?), you will NOT be able to move the shifter from Park...it will be locked into the Park position.

As others have said, I suspect that it is the battery, and your charging system isn't working right either. Once the truck is started, the charging system should provide all the power the engine needs; it should continue to run until you shut it off.

Toyota makes a great truck, and puts an electrical turd in for a battery. My 2017 battery died yesterday after 25 months, 3600 miles of ownership. Anyone buying a new Tundra should expect the OEM battery to last no longer than 24 months imo. (Hmmm...toyotacare roadside assistance also just expired. ).

Mode of failure is a dead cell. Votmeter said 11.3V, enough to run some small lighting and nanny switches, but not enough to engage the starter. Only one small clue: trickle charger (always on in garage) took longer than usual, and did not recharge battery overnight once last week. Previous two starts that day were normal. Starter would not engage with a 50 amp charger jump, and battery would not take a charge. I was lucky I didn't get marooned on a dark forest road.

 

Following.

My guess is the alternator died and then the battery ran down. Been there with my old truck while pulling a boat. I pulled a battery out of boat and put in truck. Left boat at a farm. Made it home to repair my old F150.

Look at your video, in the video after it starts, the voltmeter show less than 14 volts. If alternator was fine, it should be > 14.

Good idea to check voltmeter while driving.

 

The gauge was still working its way up as the engine died. I’m still thinking battery or something going on with the key and security engine lock out. Easy test would be try another key.

 

Disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then reconnect. Use your key in the driver's door to lock and arm the truck ( not the remote lock). Then unlock with the key. Try starting. If still stalls, repeat starting for 20 times, the computer will relearn the truck. If this sounds funny, it is not. I had a similar problem with my Gen 1 when I seized the AC pulley and the truck went into a start/ stall mode just as yours is doing. Have someone turn the key and look to see if there is anything not turning on the serpentine belt. Once I freed the AC pulley loose I had to repeat the start/stall process until the computer re-adjusted, and it started. Also try getting on the gas when you attempt to start it see if you can help it along.

 

But don't floor it or it won't start for sure if it does turn over. That's a good way to prime the oil pressure if needed by holding the gas all the way and cranking because it won't start. Or save that for when you are out with your lady on the forest road, "honey the truck won't start, what to do?".

 

Are they working on the truck today?

 

I'm hoping to find out!

Checked the wiring, and everything still look intact and brand new

Thanks, I was yelling and dying inside at the same time, lol

No other electronic aftermarket parts yet except for the cai

They still havent worked on it. I'm checking it out myself since it's in the parking lot

 

So it turns out that the intake hose was disconnected from the throttle body while I was on the trail. This makes sense because I was driving over some ruts and it got really bumpy. I made sure to screw the clamp really tight after fitting the hose back in. Started the engine after and it works like nothing happened.
I didnt think to lift up the engine cover to take a look at the connection, doh.
Drove it out of the dealer before they could look at it and charge me for it! Thank you to everyone in this thread with the comments and suggestions.

 

Looks nice and clean in that pic, so hopefully it wasn’t dusty when this happened.