Falling out control arm bolt?

Did the oil change and tire rotation. Noticed a strange sound last couple days. Noticed the bolt for my driver control arm is almost all the way out…. Anyone ever deal with this? The nut must have fallen off the other side and it’s been slowly sliding out. Is this a fluke? Or did the shop who put my lift on last summer not tighten it all the way?? I’m assuming I should get it towed to a shop.

 

I'd assume the shop that installed your lift forgot to torque down the nut. I wouldn't see a need to have to tow it to a shop. Get you a M16 - 1.5 nylock nut and a washer, since it looks like the washer is gone too, from the hardware store slap it on and torque it to spec.
I replaced both of mine with nylock nuts just to avoid ever having them back out.

 

Thanks for the info. I hope nothing is bent. What do I have to take off in order to get the bolt back through as I didn’t put the kit on? I can prob find a video.

 

Just lift that side up so the suspension can droop and you can wiggle the upper arm and the bolt will pop right through.

 

Perfect! Thanks. Anyone know torque specs?? I have zone off-road control arms. I think the bolts are factory.

 

I looked up the spec for the zone uca, 173 ft-lbs. Same as stock.

 

Awesome. Thanks. I think it’s the stock bolt. Will be going to the hardware store tomorrow.

 

Be sure when you get the bolt re-inserted and the nut back on to have the truck weight back on the suspension before torquing the nut down.

 

Yup! Thanks. Does the bolt need to be greased at all? I know the bushing were supposed to be before the arms were installed.

 

My only other concern is fitting my torque wrench on that bolt. Looks like a tight fit. Might have to find a shorter socket.

 

No need for grease. You can put some antiseize compound on the shaft of the bolt..light coat will do. Do not put it on the thread portion..

 

Got it in. Went right in. Used a normal hex nut. No store had the flat back or nylock ones. Might order some and replace later. Should hold for now. Thanks everyone.

 

As long as it's torqued you should be good to go. If you want the nylon nuts, your local Grainger or fastener place usually will have them. I'm betting that they just didn't torque it. For reference here is the OEM nut https://www.sparksparts.com/oem-par...9dHVuZHJhJnk9MjAyMCZ0PXNyNSZlPTUtN2wtdjgtZ2Fz

 

Thanks. Appreciate it. Do you know the stock washer part number?

 

Most definitely grease the bolt. I'm actually surprised yours were not seized. My '21 with 13k miles has 2 siesed bolts. Gotta cut them out.

It's pretty common with Toyota trucks.

 

I know it happens with the lower control arms all the time. Didn’t know the uppers did that as well.

 

Did bunch of suspension work on 11 tacoma and 07 tundra. Both from midwest and both hadn’t been touched since the factory. Lower bolts all seized. Upper bolts all free. Believe the problem is limited to the lower arm bolts/ adjusters

 

Out of curiosity were you able to squeeze a torque wrench onto the nut? What was your trick?

I fiddled with it for a bit before I figured it wasn't feasible without risking a brake line. I gave it the old ugga dugga with a box end and a cheater pipe. Figured between that and the Loctite 263, it's not going anywhere.

 

I used the torque on the other end. Squeezed it in front of the wiring harness. Used a long wrench on the nut side.

 

For future reference, you can remove bolt holding the brake hard line and "GENTLY" push lines out of way just enough to fit torque wrench on the UCA nut if you want. Never had a problem on my trucks doing that anyway.

 

Not easy, but I torqued mine with a 3" extension and universal joint. Took 2 hands to hold everything and it was not easy. But click click...

 

Welp… have to do the other side now. Thought it was good but it too had the nut fall off and started sliding out. About to call the shop that put my lift on and wring them out. Could have been a bad accident if it came out. Any how… can’t seem to locate a grade 8 or stainless nut. Found a regular steel one. Will that work? Or should I order something like this? Need the truck tomorrow so might put the one I have on and replace later. Thoughts?

$10 uxcell 2pcs M16 x 1.5mm Pitch Metric Fine Thread 304 Stainless Steel Hex Lock Nuts

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077GL6RSD

 

Just put whatever on it for now and order an oem nut or other nylock to change out.

 

Like VWTim said, use what you have for now if you need the truck tomorrow. If you have some blue loctite put some on there to avoid it backing out until you get your nylock nuts in.

 

Ordered those nylocks off Amazon. Should I also blue locktite those when I install?

 

I see what you mean now that I’m doing passenger side. Much tighter and brake lines are right there. Should be interesting.

 

So I can get a long wrench on the bolt, moved the brake line a bit, but my torque wrench is too long and hits the tire on the bolt side. Any ideas on how I can do this? Can’t torque it from the top due to the metal mud guard bracket. Can’t get the torque wrench onto the bolt side. Ny only idea is to just tighten as much as I can with a shorter ratchet. Worried I’ll go too tight.

 

Torque spec is like 170 ft lbs. I don’t think that’s possible to tighten too much with a short ratchet.
I was barely able to get 150 ft lbs with a long torque wrench.

 

This has happened to me and only on the driver side. I remember finding the nut sitting on the frame but no washer. Once I got another washer, I cleaned up the threads and ran the bolt back through then torqued to spec. I forget how long after that, but I noticed the nut had backed off again, so I ordered another through bolt, nut, and washer from the dealer. Installed it and used red loctite this time.

Haven't had an issue since.

 

Yea I’m worried I may have the same issue. I marked the nuts with a paint pen so I can keep an eye on them. Eventually I’ll put on the nylock nuts and hope those hold. If not, I’ll purchase new bolts from Toyota also.