Finally decided on a lift kit

Hey all, I think i finally decided on the lift kit I am going with and wanted everyones advice if I should change/alter anything.

Toytec Boss System - 2.5" coilovers set at full 3" prebuilt
Toytec Shackles
Diff and carrier drop kits
Toytec rear add a leafs with 9" Ubolt kit
Durobump stops for the rear
Coachbuilder front bump stop extenders
3 coachbuilder .5" shims (not sure if I have the lean but want to use at least one per side for a little over 3 inchs of total lift)
Rear brake line extention brackets
SPC UCA

So far I will be running stock wheels but plan on getting some SCS SR8 in bronze when they have stock again. Any advice is greatly appreciated, i want to do this once and do it right.

 

Using shims with Toytecs coilovers will void their warranty. The lean can be corrected by adjusting the coilover.

 

Damn, didnt realize that. Where does it say that on their site?

Part of me thinks, how would they know? The studs?

 

Might want to add front sway bar drop spacers. Good luck getting anything soon with the current conditions.

 

Thanks for that tip. Do you know anyone that sells a spacer kit for the sway?

Actually everything on my list currently doesnt show a back order. The SPCs I ordered a while back so they should be here soon.

 

Readylift will have em.

 

I will have to look...it may be on the instruction sheet. You won't need a sway bar drop with this setup. I have the same setup.

 

Toytec told me not to install one when I did mine. However, I wonder if it would reduce creaking...?

 

Ditto in ditching the shims and front bumpstop extenders

 

I know this is an unpopular opinion around here, but having run Toytec suspension on my first Tundra I was really unhappy with the ride quality.

On the second Tundra I went with Fox with reservoirs and DSC adjusters and it was a huge improvement over stock - even cranked up to 3.5" of front end lift.

 

No creaking here, lifted about 3"

 

I am sure the fox is better all around but its way more money and honestly probably more hardcore than I need.

No front bump stop extenders but what about the back? What height lift would recommend bumpstops?

 

I'm sure you've done your research, but in the Toytec price range there are a lot of better (in my opinion, of course) options.

Here's one: https://ironman4x4america.com/foam-...on-kit-suited-for-toyota-tundra-2007-stage-2/

 

Once you add shackle length you want to add bump stop heighth to avoid flattening your springs when loaded super heavy. Factory bump stops and longer shackles simply puts the spring in a compromising position when the frame meets the bump stop.

 

I actually do really like the ironman setup with the new leafs and its a great deal, i have just recently been reading about some front coil issues like bowing and its making me hesitant.

Same with the OME setup (which was actually my first choice with the Dakars) but i have seen a couple posts here with issues that looked like a nightmare to deal with.

 

Don’t people get 3+ in the front with ironman? Honestly 3 inches even in the front rides dramatically worse than 2. The angle of the arms becomes steeper which ruins it. You can fit the same tires at 2 inches that you can at 3 for the most part

remember, extended bumpstops means reducing available up travel in the suspension. Factor that into your setup

 

The ironman kit is advertised at 3.5" all around. I do use this rig for offroading which is the main reason for the lift, and partially for bigger tires. I was going to do 18x9 wheels with +25 offset on 295/70/18s, would the extra lift not be necessary?

 

No, it wouldnt technically.

To add to what @Hbjeff stated. I'm running the IM4x4 FCPs. They do come out at 3.5 from IM. I lowered them to 2.5" and there was a noticable change in ride quality, for the better.

Going off your statement, since you do offroad, the lift actually becomes a non factor for any off roading that compresses the suspension to full stuff.

Basically even with a lift you will rub without the proper offset and tire size to avoid it, or you will have to cut to make it work. The suspension simply rests at a lower travel (droop) point so lifts help with on road driving where stuffing never occurs. As soon as you take a good dip or mogul offroad you'll rub the same as you would with 34s on the stock suspension. Both set ups would travel upward the same and ultimately rub the same.

+25s with 295s will avoid most of the rub risk, but honestly you will still have some if you try hard enough. If you want to decrease the risk any further but want 34"+ tires, go 285/75r18 or 285/70r18.

Rub typically comes from the outer most edges on the tires, no narrower tires will help.

 

As for front bump stop extensions, you may want to look at Timbren active bump stops. Kinda pricey but nice.

 

Thanks for that breakdown. When you lowered your front to 2.5, did you get excessive rake considering the rear is already higher from the factory and you theoretically would have added an additional inch of rake? Do you have pics?

 

Sorry, I should have stated im running their coils and shocks.

The rear on my truck has the CB +2 Shackle, not the IM leafs.

 

Well crap what if I just ran 5100s on 2nd clip and CB shims for 2" lift with a +2 CB shackle and called it a day and save 1500 bucks on UCA, leafs, coilovers and having to take off all my belly armor for install....

 

If me, and I was going cheap on the rear. Ironman greasable shackles, pins and bushings, then lift with block not shackle length. Then you keep factory bumps and your springs aren't getting pushed into negative arch. Plus you get a better than stock ride and don't lose spare tire clearance with a big thick chunky aluminum shackle plate.

 

I have taller and wider tires and no lift at all. Never rubs. I did do a BMC though... but I probably could have avoided that by moving the wheels forward a bit... and I modded the plastic a good amount.

A 2" lift is enough for 37s if you do it right.

 

Was thinking of doing your exact setup . People at Ironman 4x4 recommended i didn't lower the front height from 3.5 to 2.5 . Looks like it's working well for you.

You haven't had an issue with springs bowing at that height ?.

 

Going to be completely honest, but its my opinion. I dont believe they know their product that well. They use a spring that is longer than just about any other standard coilover for our trucks. With it jacked to 3.5" it binds pretty bad and you can find plenty of people on here that have issues with the coil contacting the shock body at that setting.

When I spoke with them they "couldn't preadjust it down the .5"" I requested because they claimed it wouldnt adjust that low. Mine are currently adjusted down the .5", which I did on my own. Have about 5k miles on them now without issue. They ride, way better adjusted to 2.5". I'm going to lower them another .25" to get a bit of rake back once I finish moving. I've got room to lower them all the way down to basically stock height.

 

To get 3.5" of lift you have to compress them more, causing greater potential for bowing. It think it's a spring winding defect combined with low clearance because of the large shock body that is causing this issue.

Or suspensions in general. Saying they need to be at 3.5" is very odd and makes little sense. Unless it's marketing who wants you to have to buy UCAs and rear springs, which you need to do if you lift the front that much.

The 590 lb spring rate is why they need long coils. OEM is near 700 lb, and most other aftermarket springs I know of are 650-740 lbs (King is 600).

Good info, thanks for sharing.