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First Oil Change Questions

Discussion in '3rd Gen Tundras (2022+)' started by stinkomann, May 22, 2024.

  1. May 22, 2024 at 11:38 AM
    #1
    stinkomann

    stinkomann [OP] New Member

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    Hi apologies if it’s in a thread and I missed it. A search didn’t really narrow it down.

    But for those who do an early break in change, are you getting them done at a dealer? It seems most are around 800 to 1000 miles when they do.

    Right now I’m at 630 or so. And want to get my ducks in a row. I understand I’d be paying out of pocket for it etc. but I’m assuming a quick Lube type place wouldn’t have OEM filters. Which seems like best route to go with stuff like this in reading. Thanks in advance for any pointing to right thread I missed or answering here. :)
     
  2. May 22, 2024 at 11:52 AM
    #2
    Ron23

    Ron23 New Member

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    First change was at 1000 miles at the dealer.
     
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  3. May 22, 2024 at 11:52 AM
    #3
    Bergmen

    Bergmen New Member

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    Is there any possibility you can do this yourself? There are legions of horror stories (here on this site) on dealers (and quick oil change places) completely screwing up simple oil/filter changes.

    AFAIC, I ALWAYS do my own oil/filter changes and have since 1961.

    Dan
     
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  4. May 22, 2024 at 11:53 AM
    #4
    pursuit2550

    pursuit2550 New Member

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    You ever seen an engine blow up because they didn't change the oil at the magical 1000 miles. Why not 500 or 2000, what's so magical about 1k? Stop over thinking simple stuff. Change it every 5000 miles and dont drive it like you stole it. And yes you missed it, there is literally 1000's of threads on oils. Its like beat a dead horse, again, again, again, and again. Oh and did I mention again, again and again.
     
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  5. May 22, 2024 at 11:54 AM
    #5
    ChucklesToy

    ChucklesToy Retired

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    will be doing my first oil/filter change at dealer next month ~2,000 miles, 6 months...
     
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  6. May 22, 2024 at 11:54 AM
    #6
    paulphilly

    paulphilly New Member

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    I did the first oil change myself at just over 800 miles. Easy to do. I take my time, am precise, and have a cold beer in the process. All things that will not happen at a dealer typically.
     
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  7. May 22, 2024 at 11:56 AM
    #7
    stinkomann

    stinkomann [OP] New Member

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    my guess/understanding at the logic of it. Though I’m new to all this. Is from metal in initial break in.
     
  8. May 22, 2024 at 11:57 AM
    #8
    stinkomann

    stinkomann [OP] New Member

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    Thanks. So sounds like for those who do, either yourself or dealer. To make sure I go with OEM filter.
     
  9. May 22, 2024 at 11:59 AM
    #9
    Bergmen

    Bergmen New Member

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    Yes, absolutely (and NOT from ScAmazon, only from the dealer or on-line dealer sources).

    Check the multiple threads here on this including supplemental tool recommendations and carefully follow them. Easy to do if you are prepared.

    Dan
     
  10. May 22, 2024 at 12:02 PM
    #10
    SM Tundra

    SM Tundra New Member

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    I had mine changed at the dealer around 1500 miles when the did the recall for the transmission thing. Find a good Toyota dealer and send it. There are some service centers that actually don’t dick you around and actually do the job you paying for. I know my truck sat on the lot for over two months before I bought it in February and did the oil change this month. But figured it had been 5 months since it arrived at the dealer and they recommend 6 months or 5k miles so I sent it. I’ll do the next one at 5k at well and every 5k after that. did that with all my Toyotas and going to continue it.
     
  11. May 22, 2024 at 12:04 PM
    #11
    eddiefromcali

    eddiefromcali New Member

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    some dealers will do it and will just advise that you are using up one of your free changes....others wont do it until its "due" Talk to your advisor and see what they say
     
    stinkomann[OP] likes this.
  12. May 22, 2024 at 12:06 PM
    #12
    stinkomann

    stinkomann [OP] New Member

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    I hadn’t included that in my thoughts thank you. Looks like my build date is 10/23 and I didn’t get it until last month. So it’s been in there longer than I had it.
     
    SM Tundra[QUOTED] likes this.
  13. May 22, 2024 at 12:07 PM
    #13
    pursuit2550

    pursuit2550 New Member

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    If metals are your point as to why change then why not 500? Wouldn't you want that metal out as soon as possible? Also wouldn't the manuf make you do it since there is dangerous levels of metal that will make your engine blow up if not done? What if all that metal you speak of doesn't come out on the 1st drain? What if that metal stayed on the top of the engine and then dropped 2000 miles later? With the tight clearances on crank, rod, cam, etc bearings you think a piece of metal is going to makes it way in there? People over think the simples things. Just like oils brands. No oil will protect your engine from blowing up if it's a bearing manufacturing issue, period. And let's not forget that the majority of people get rid of their truck before anything major happens, so all those oil changes with fancy oil and the 1k "break in" oil change was for nothing. It's simple, do regular maintenance, dont beat on like a redhead step child and you will be fine. If not, you have warranty and if your stilled worried buy extended warranty.
     
  14. May 22, 2024 at 12:07 PM
    #14
    stinkomann

    stinkomann [OP] New Member

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    Thanks. I actually bought from a dealer about 60 miles away. But the one closer to me was where I was thinking of having it changed. It’s 20 miles from me. Just smaller town so they don’t have as much selection.
     
  15. May 22, 2024 at 12:07 PM
    #15
    SM Tundra

    SM Tundra New Member

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    My build date was also 10/23. So figured why not. Hope you are enjoying the truck!
     
  16. May 22, 2024 at 12:09 PM
    #16
    stinkomann

    stinkomann [OP] New Member

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    I had thought about that too. Why not at 500 etc. and I was guessing(?) that because it was still creating some shavings in that time frame? I don’t know. Like I said I’m not the best at this. So if it helps with my worry with this stuff I might do it. I was hoping to keep this thing until it dies. But without much data still it’s hard not knowing how long that will be lol!
     
  17. May 22, 2024 at 12:11 PM
    #17
    stinkomann

    stinkomann [OP] New Member

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    So far so good. A weird clicking noise when I turn the wheel left on the steering wheel. But nothing to complain about. But I’d be lying if I didn’t have some worry with some of the horror stories going on out there. Hopefully been pain free ownership for you too!
     
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  18. May 22, 2024 at 12:25 PM
    #18
    pursuit2550

    pursuit2550 New Member

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    There are no "shavings". Metals is ALWAYS in your engine, it's called engine wear. This isn't a rear end that is machined to a pretty much raw product. Engine internals are precision made parts and finished to the highest tolerances and finished to exactly not do what you are talking about about. Show me an engine with metal shavings and I will show you an improperly made engine. I think Toyota knows what they are doing and not having metal shavings in there engines is 1 of the things they know.
     
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  19. May 22, 2024 at 12:31 PM
    #19
    stinkomann

    stinkomann [OP] New Member

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    Thanks appreciate the input :)
     
  20. May 22, 2024 at 12:39 PM
    #20
    Goobax

    Goobax New Member

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    I had the dealer do mine at 1000 and 5000 miles just because I’m overly paranoid I guess. Sending the oil off for analysis from the 5k change, was fairly dark but nothing picked up on a magnet test
     
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  21. May 22, 2024 at 1:45 PM
    #21
    Lee.M

    Lee.M New Member

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    I notice this as well on my truck changed oil at 4500k. Checked back at 5300 and the oil has a darker brown to it. Don’t get me wrong I know it changes just seems to happen faster. My old 21 2500hd 6.6 gas truck oil would stay golden brown forever. Same as my 2008 ls460 89k maybe it’s the turbos putting the heat to it.
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2024
  22. May 22, 2024 at 3:07 PM
    #22
    rosegrad

    rosegrad New Member

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  23. May 22, 2024 at 7:18 PM
    #23
    Goobax

    Goobax New Member

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    same, I was a bit shocked I guess. I mean, I know it’s going to change color but didn’t expect this dark. Most likely benign but can’t imagine what it’s like at 10k if it looks like this at 4k.

    IMG_5061.jpg
     
  24. May 23, 2024 at 9:57 AM
    #24
    eddiefromcali

    eddiefromcali New Member

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    color is not an indication of anything by itself. no oil analysis will ever say "darker than average" or anything to that effect.
     
  25. May 23, 2024 at 12:04 PM
    #25
    Aku77

    Aku77 New Member

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    One of the questions that no matter what you do, some will agree, some will disagree, and the rest don't care.

    FWIW, I changed my own oil at 3K and then had the dealer do it at 7K. The main reason I did my own change at 3K was because I was curious about how much easier it was than my 2011 Tundra. It is much easier!

    So it's your truck, you decide. I'm in the "Change the 1st early and 5K from then on" group. I also agree with the idea of getting OEM filters only from the dealership or order it from a Toyota dealer online. I ordered one for my 2011 a while back from Amazon but didn't have a good feeling about it. The parts guy at the dealership I go to told me that Toyota filters come with a plastic seal over the opening to prevent the pre-lubed gasket from drying and introduction of foreign objects. The one I got from Amazon did not have the plastic seal.

    When I change my oil, I have been using Kirkland 0w-20. Is Mobil 1 better? Yes. But I figure if I'm changing at 5K, I'm not stressing the oil so the Kirkland is still overkill. I will do my next oil change in about a month and do an oil analysis then too.

    Good luck! Enjoy the truck! I love my 2023. It is so much smoother and quieter than my 2011 Rock Warrior. Been a few times I've been on I-5 and caught myself going a lot faster than intended.
     
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  26. May 23, 2024 at 12:49 PM
    #26
    SpilledTheSalt

    SpilledTheSalt Fish Lips

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    I did my fist at 500 miles and will do every 4-5k going forward. I've always done them myself rather than going to the dealer (Or lube place), even if I have freebies. The "Lube techs" that they have changing oil have a tendency to over tighten and overfill everything.
     
  27. May 23, 2024 at 3:04 PM
    #27
    Goobax

    Goobax New Member

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    Aware, just like I said was darker than I expected. My main reason for the analysis was that I’m going to start adding a few items for more power and just wanted a way to trend as time goes on.
     
  28. May 23, 2024 at 3:11 PM
    #28
    Ebrperk

    Ebrperk Old member

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    Tinted windows, go rhino D6 side steps and shorty antenna, Bilstein 5100's rears, 6112's fonts set to 2.5" Rocktrix RT111 18x9 -12offset NItto Terra Grapplers G3's 275/70 R18's. Amp from James @ Tech12volts FRAC Harness
    been a LONG time (decades) since I have rebuild a small block Ford or Chevy, but we had always changed oil after about getting it warmed up the first time to get rid of the assembly lube and any debris that might have gotten in to the engine while it was tore down, then drive nice for a few hundred miles to seat the rings and break in the cam and change it again. Then every 3,000 after that
     
  29. May 23, 2024 at 3:29 PM
    #29
    tundrametz

    tundrametz New Member

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    For reference purposes…

    First oil change at ~2500 miles. Here is the inside of the cut open oil filter. Notice the "glitter". The filter pleats had but just a couple pieces of "glitter” in them.



    Second oil change at ~5000 miles. Again, the inside of the cut open oil filter with significantly less "glitter" in it this time. The filter pleats had no "glitter" in them at 5000 miles.

     
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  30. May 23, 2024 at 11:50 PM
    #30
    Michael Tregre

    Michael Tregre New Member

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    Dealer performed my first free oil change at 1k and the 2nd at 6k. Did the next at 12k. I will do them going forward at +5k.
    I would run my '18 taco and '18 4runner to +10k (amsoil), my FBO '08 ISF w/140k+ miles at +10k (amsoil), and my '18 BMW M2 Stg3 at +7k (liquimoly). Something just doesn't 'feel' right to go past 5k on this Tundra. Meh, its a cheap maintenance item, currently using M1 advanced fuel economy. Ill do an analysis at the 22k change.
     
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