Frame rust / scale removal

Purchased my 14 Tundra, knowing well that i would de doing some cleanup of the frame and undercarriage, being there was some scale / crust in the frame-rails where the sections meet, and are either riveted or riveted welded.

Anyone here do this themselves? I picked up a decent media blaster to do the hard joints, and can grind / wire wheel the rest, then treat the surfaces with rust converter, and some high quality frame paint from Eastwood.

How did it go ? Use any particular products which outlasted your expectations?

TIA

 

What media? Using a sandblaster around a vehicle means sand everywhere. In the window tracks scratching the glass is one favorite hiding place.

 

You use "scale" and "crust". Scale is a mineral build up. Crust could mean almost anything.

Do you have rust that has removed significant metal from the frame and welded joints?

I would use a rust converter only over surface rust. I wouldn't use it to treat deep or penetrating rust.

Agree that using a media blaster under a truck sounds like a messy nightmare.

What exactly do you have going on?

if it is rust that can be removed with wire brushes, a grinder with a wire wheel, or sandpaper, just do that where needed, and then use one of the popular rust converter kits and then follow up with a compatible finish for protection.

Eastwood, POR 15, and RustBullet have been mainstays.

If you really want to get into the rust treatment weeds, please enjoy:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=131753

 

Sorry, I didnt realize I was being quizzed on gramatical, syntax, and semantics errors here . I guess I'd be better off just asking specifically what products were utilized to inhibit further metal degredation, and kept my frame's physical descriptives to myself.

Treatment to prevent further reoccurrence, is where my goal was set to this thread, but I digress.


My bad . Ill punish myself later, no worry.

The frame is solid, otherwise I would have passed on the purchase, which I did on several of them I crawled around under before finding this one.

SOME of The lap welds where different sections of frame are conjoined, have surface buildup, or expanded oxidizing growth, or either mild flaking of oxidized metal formations. There is the occasional spot where the welds have a milimeter or so of removable iron oxide deposits that can be "scraped" off, hence the non specific "crust" and not "mill scale" term you object to. I was eating some semolina bread, and crust was on my mind at the time I wrote that.

Thank you for keeping an eye on me, cause I was getting out of hand there, for a moment.

 

Thanks! When I get home, Ill read through that testing linky

 

‘How did it go’

Neck ache, body ache, rust dust everywhere but the finished product is stella. 6-7 days of 3 hour intense sessions

Noteable areas that needed extra attention and were a PITA - under the spare and to the rear of the shackle mount into the hitch, up front behind the front shock and between the engine and frame in that area (hard to reach)

I used a little corroseal at first but settled on Rustolems rust dissolver, I love how it works but it takes more work. I applied this after all the prep (wire wheels of different variety and scrappers) then light coat of rustolem rust stop semi gloss on the ‘visual’ areas and then fluid filmed everything.

My truck did two untreated winters in northern NY and it didn’t look bad at a glance but I plan to keep it, so it made sense to go full bore. I just hit it once a year with fluid film or surface shield but after a year+ it looks like it did after all the suffering!

 

Best of luck.

 

As soon as I bought this truck 6 -7 months ago, i dropped the spare tire. It had never been removed, as far as i can tell, and the rim was beyond refinishing. I ordered a restored rim, and swapped the tire to it, as it held air, and showed no signs of ozone cracking, being 10 years old.

I scraped every square inch under,there, then applied rist converter treatment to the frame and spare tire stowage area. Once cured, I put the spare back, and did the other repairs on the front of the truck.

Ive done this before with other vehicles, and it lasts for a while, but needs touching up from time to,time

I had my 14,000 lb service truck, and my 92 w250 done professionally, where they blasted then coated the frame. I previously removed everything from the truck (shocks, brackets, exhaust, and even fuel tank to allow full access to the frames, but I dont want to go through all this on this truck, being there isnt that much rust to contend with to start

 

Gracias!

 

i'll post photos later

 

Use some high agility cavity wax, like Noxudol 700. Best you can do in hard to access areas. It will creep inches away from application spot, seal the metal, push water away (bonds better with metal than water) and convert rust. Can also spray inside the channels using a long 360 wand.

 

Thanks fellas.

I did my service truck back in 22, and while I waited for the new box, I did the frame, which was getting pretty funky. The crossmembers are paper thin from the factory, so I ordered new ones, then had them powder coated with extra thick coating, replaced all the brackets, and cleaned out behind them before bolting in the new. Those bolts are specialty bolts used on frames, which double lock so they don't loosen up over time. Torquing them was fun !

Since the truck was opened up, I removed everything possible, before shipping the chassis out. 3 years later, and it's like new under there.

The before and during process:

 

same to my dodge, except on a smaller scale (oops ! I said scale ! )

 

Oh good stuff, its alot of work but worth it in the end if you plan to keep it. I will be removing my bed soon for a flatbed, so I plan to treating the top of the frame next and then I can close that chapter!

If I had a shop I'd really strip back the rear end and apply the same kinda paint they use on the railway bridges etc but I'm not getting into that in my garage seeing as I cant get my truck in there