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Front axle leak/front diff

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by Voss, Nov 1, 2021.

  1. Nov 1, 2021 at 1:00 PM
    #1
    Voss

    Voss [OP] Dust in the wind

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    Hi all, do we have seals that need replacing where our axels connect to the front differential? Have a leak, not sure how to go about fixing this…
    85F9BE0C-9547-40DA-BC39-97124A4E49A9.jpg
    AE6AB414-653C-475C-B93F-F0483B222174.jpg
    6C29D1D8-6B40-43D3-A7DB-5E9E828FD6B6.jpg
     
  2. Nov 1, 2021 at 1:07 PM
    #2
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Check the name tag. You're in my world now.

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    Each side has a seal you can buy from Toyota. What kind of shape are your axles in? Could replace both at the same time. If axles are fine, just pull them out and replace the seals. The passenger side is easy to screw up if you drive it in too far. Good time to swap fluid also. It would also be a great time to replace the needle bearing if you haven't already.

    They sell the axle seals too-verify the part #
    https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-1...amshell-bushingeliminates-needle-bearing.html

    Good info in here.

    https://www.tundras.com/threads/ecgs-bushing-tool.59664/
     
    metalpete, bmf4069 and Voss[OP] like this.
  3. Nov 1, 2021 at 1:10 PM
    #3
    Voss

    Voss [OP] Dust in the wind

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    Thanks!
     
  4. Nov 2, 2021 at 6:00 AM
    #4
    bmf4069

    bmf4069 Michelob Ultra coinesour

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    All your bass are belong to us

    So that's just the drivers side? What about the passenger side?
     
  5. Nov 2, 2021 at 8:01 AM
    #5
    Voss

    Voss [OP] Dust in the wind

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    Mine is on the passenger side. There’s a gasket you can replace and a bearing(may need replacing as well).

    That being said, called a differential shop and the guy said our axels can pop out and back in if we have a lift which causes some oil to drip out. Told me to wipe off the oil and see if it leaks again.
     
  6. Dec 11, 2021 at 9:56 AM
    #6
    Voss

    Voss [OP] Dust in the wind

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    So definitely have a leak and have the parts ready for todays repair. Also got the bearing but wasn’t able to find any how to vids on the YouTube.

    Any tips on how to change the bearing?
    DC8EA91A-C6C6-44B5-8452-061ACCA215F2.jpg
     
    Jack McCarthy likes this.
  7. Dec 11, 2021 at 10:11 AM
    #7
    CodyP

    CodyP Such a n00b

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    hmm, I don't remember any bearing on the passenger side and the driver side uses a needle bearing unlike the one you have in the picture.
     
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  8. Dec 11, 2021 at 10:21 AM
    #8
    Mr Badwrench

    Mr Badwrench New Member

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    Unless you are getting vibration or a faint roar, leave the bearings along, personal advice. Which bearing did you purchase, I guess I don't recognize it in the picture?

    Get a micrometer and measure the depth of the original oil seals and try to get the new ones seated at the same depth or thereabouts. Get a seal installation tool and get the seals as concentric as you can. Also, look at the CV shafts where they interface with the seals, if there is a groove, you can either replace the CV shaft (extreme measure) or seat the seal at a different depth so it doesn't ride in the same groove (that's what I would do).

    They are kind of a pain in the ass to replace and if you don't get them right on the first shot, you have to pull everything apart again. Attention to detail and taking your time will really help you out here.
     
    dinosaur and Voss[OP] like this.
  9. Dec 11, 2021 at 10:41 AM
    #9
    Voss

    Voss [OP] Dust in the wind

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    Stop it you’re scaring me lol. Appreciate the tips bud! It’s the bearing for the passenger side, sits behind the seal. I think it’s held in place with those C clamp-washer type thingamajigs that squeeze together to remove.

    The axel went bad a while back that would cause a vibration. Not really noticing a vibration since replacing the axel but feel it would be better off with a new bearing.
     
  10. Dec 11, 2021 at 10:47 AM
    #10
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Check the name tag. You're in my world now.

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    The vibration people experience is typically the needle bearing and the way you test is putting it in 4WD. If the vibration goes away while in 4WD it's a bad needle bearing. I agree with them that I wouldn't touch that other bearing. There is a YouTube video for the needle bearing. Most people swap it for the east coast gear supply bushing.


    @empty_lord may know how to swap the other bearing you purchased.
     
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  11. Dec 11, 2021 at 10:56 AM
    #11
    CodyP

    CodyP Such a n00b

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    I agree with @FirstGenVol to diagnose the vibration but if you're in there to replace the seal and already have the axle out it's only a matter of time before the needle bearing goes kaput especially if you're lifted at all. Just spend the $70 and replace it while you're there. It's not hard, just take a little finesse. Also the seals have natural lips where they should be driven to, just take note of the old seal and how far it was driven in.

    ECGS bushing to replace the needle bearing:
    https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-1...amshell-bushingeliminates-needle-bearing.html

    You will need a puller either from them as well:
    https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-14472913-toyota-7-5-clamshell-bushingremoval-tool.html
    or rent it from...crap, I ALWAYS get you guys mixed up on here...but rent it from one on this board. Someone smarted will let you know who has it and now I think two people have the tool to lend out.


    Also, I see you have a red boot on your CV axle...is that the CVJ one??
     
    Last edited: Dec 11, 2021
    dinosaur, Voss[OP] and FirstGenVol like this.
  12. Dec 11, 2021 at 11:14 AM
    #12
    Voss

    Voss [OP] Dust in the wind

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    It’s the off-road solutions high angle cv boot.
    Already have the bearing but my leak is on the passenger side. Believe the needle bearing is on Driver’s side. To replace the bearing on PS, I feel like I need to remove the tube section that’s between the diff and and axel.
    If I’m not mistaken, @FrenchToasty made the puller.
     
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  13. Dec 11, 2021 at 11:18 AM
    #13
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

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    The passenger side bearing shouldn’t need to be replaced… that’s not a fun job.
     
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  14. Dec 11, 2021 at 11:22 AM
    #14
    Voss

    Voss [OP] Dust in the wind

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    Alright, I’m following the general consensus on the bearing. As long as it looks like it’s in good shape, I’ll leave it be.

    thanks fellas! That should save me enough time to tackle a couple other small projects on my list.
     
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  15. Dec 11, 2021 at 5:21 PM
    #15
    Chevy9124

    Chevy9124 New Member

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    I just replaced my passenger side seal. There’s a small lip about 5mm in from the outer edge of the differential that the seal should align with. I learned the hard way and put the seal too far in and had to pull it out for a second try. One tip is to use a piece of pipe that fits over the protruding ring of the seal to tap it in evenly and square. It can easily get off kilter. I used a ball joint receiver sleeve since I already had a ball joint press kit on hand. But ive heard others use pvc pipe.

    Just take your time with it and tap lightly and constantly check its position/alignment

    And check youtube for videos. I think Timmy the Toolman has one
     
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  16. Dec 11, 2021 at 5:46 PM
    #16
    Diablo169

    Diablo169 ROKRAPR

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    Yeah, no need to replace the bearing on the passenger side. That’s a big project. The bearing everyone is talking about is the needle bearing on the drivers side. When lifted, it can cause vibration, like a grumbling feeling due to the excessive wear.

    I’d throw a new seal on it and call it good.

    You should be able to pull the CV by drooping out the suspension, removing the caliper and unbolting the lower ball joint and swinging the knuckle out.
     
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  17. Dec 11, 2021 at 5:48 PM
    #17
    Voss

    Voss [OP] Dust in the wind

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    Exactly what I used along with a seal driver set that fit perfectly on the ball joint press. It still went in a little uneven but was able to tap it even. Got it right around the spot it’s supposed to sit. Hopefully no more leak.
     
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  18. Dec 11, 2021 at 5:50 PM
    #18
    Voss

    Voss [OP] Dust in the wind

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    Yeah bearing looked good so left it in there. Disconnected the tie rod and the 4 bolts connecting the wheel hub to the ball joint(didn’t remove ball joint). Worked well
     
  19. Dec 12, 2021 at 1:07 PM
    #19
    Voss

    Voss [OP] Dust in the wind

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    Went on a decent test drive and so far so good. No leak
     
  20. Dec 28, 2021 at 8:17 PM
    #20
    Chevy9124

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    @Voss mind sharing an update? Has the leak stopped? I noticed mine’s back again but I’m pretty sure I installed the seal perfectly.
     
  21. Dec 29, 2021 at 8:35 AM
    #21
    Voss

    Voss [OP] Dust in the wind

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    That sucks. No leaking yet on mine
     
  22. Dec 29, 2021 at 9:27 AM
    #22
    CodyP

    CodyP Such a n00b

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    what side is still leaking?
     
  23. Dec 29, 2021 at 4:17 PM
    #23
    Chevy9124

    Chevy9124 New Member

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    passenger side. it was good for a few weeks but now I’m seeing the drip again with a spot on the driveway. Any ideas of what it could be?

    I checked the diff breather tube plug valves and one wont twist freely. and based on what others say on the forum seems like that could be the culprit? I ordered a few that ill replace this week and see if that does anything.
     
  24. Dec 29, 2021 at 4:32 PM
    #24
    CodyP

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    that sucks. I suppose that could be the culprit, and at least it's something that needs fixed so I would start there.
     
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  25. Dec 31, 2021 at 9:13 AM
    #25
    Chevy9124

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    I got under the truck today to investigate the seal and noticed the passenger side axle has in/out play in it, where it meets the diff. I can push/pull it with my hand about 1/16" in/out. Is that normal? It's an aftermarket axle btw.

    IMG_2180.jpg
    IMG_2181.jpg
     
  26. Dec 31, 2021 at 2:05 PM
    #26
    assassin10000

    assassin10000 New Member

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    Normal c-clip play for a cv axle.
     
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  27. Jan 1, 2022 at 12:27 PM
    #27
    Chevy9124

    Chevy9124 New Member

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    awesome, thanks
     
  28. Jan 1, 2022 at 1:59 PM
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    Aerindel

    Aerindel New Member

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    Oil seals are magic as far as I am concerned....it seems they leak, or not based on some kind of magic humans cannot comprehend....

    Something I do know, it doesn't take much of a scratch on the shaft to make a seal leak. Learned that the hardway with a subaru cam seal.

    If you do find a scratch, the good news is you can buy shaft repair sleeves, which are just a really thin stainless steel sleeve that you press over the shaft and gives you a new polished surface over the seal area. They are so thin, the slip inside the normal sized seal without a problem.
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2022
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  29. Jan 1, 2022 at 2:36 PM
    #29
    CodyP

    CodyP Such a n00b

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    Was it an oem seal?
     
  30. Jan 1, 2022 at 7:49 PM
    #30
    Chevy9124

    Chevy9124 New Member

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    interesting. Thanks for that info, when you say press the sleeve on does it require an actual press or can it be done with basic tools? And where would be a good place to buy one?
    Yep, sure was.

    I replaced both breather tube plugs and drove a good bit yesterday so I’ll check tomorrow to see if its still leaking
     
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