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Front Diff drain plug is stripped, how to remove?

Discussion in '2.5 Gen Tundras (2014-2021)' started by IowaGuy, Dec 30, 2021.

  1. Dec 30, 2021 at 4:52 PM
    #1
    IowaGuy

    IowaGuy [OP] New Member

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    I went to change the front diff fluid today and the fill plug was tight but it came out ok. When I went to remove the drain plug I ended up stripping it. I was using a 10mm hex socket and a breaker bar plus pushing on it with my feet and it would not budge. Someone at the factory or dealer was happy with a impact gun or a big wrench. The hex socket still fits but it is pretty much stripped.

    I gave up getting the drain plug out so I put the bottle pump hose down into the fill hole and pumped out about a quart of fluid. I stopped pumping out after a quart because the fluid looked clean a and new. I them pumped in a quart of new fluid until it ran out of the hole and called it good. My truck has currently has 57k miles on it.

    I dont use 4x4 a lot at all so I guess I wont worry about it for quite a few more miles but at some point it will need addressed. So, any ideas or tips on how to get the drain plug out? Could it be chiseled loose, drilled through the center and tapped or something else?
     
  2. Dec 30, 2021 at 5:00 PM
    #2
    TundraMcGov.

    TundraMcGov. Your friend. Your foe. Not yo Ho.

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    Consult "the chart."

    Stuck bolt.jpg
     
  3. Dec 30, 2021 at 5:12 PM
    #3
    TILLY

    TILLY Gently Used Member

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  4. Dec 30, 2021 at 5:14 PM
    #4
    IowaGuy

    IowaGuy [OP] New Member

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  5. Dec 30, 2021 at 5:32 PM
    #5
    dbittle

    dbittle Middle Age Member

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    I took mine to a local shop and asked them to weld a nut to mine, then break it loose while it was still hot. Before doing that I bought a new one from the Toyota dealership. Welding the nut on is the ultimate weapon, so why waste time screwing around and getting frustrated?
     
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  6. Dec 30, 2021 at 5:34 PM
    #6
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos New Member

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    A quality cold chisel makes quick work of it. Or welding a sacrificial socket on it even quicker.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Dec 30, 2021 at 5:37 PM
    #7
    FrenchToasty

    FrenchToasty The Desert rat, 6 lug enthusiast

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    The SoAz….. big surprise
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    Also hitting the head of the bolt with a hammer or brass drift helps shock the threads loose while compressing the washer, hopefully enough to get it loose
     
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  8. Dec 30, 2021 at 5:39 PM
    #8
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos New Member

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    I just noticed it's not fully stripped yet. I would do as suggested above and try tapping it in with a hammer. Or get a sacrificial torx bit that's a hair larger and hammer that sucker in so it bites into the nut. Or the other suggestions above.
     
    JLS in WA likes this.
  9. Dec 30, 2021 at 5:44 PM
    #9
    coldcanuk

    coldcanuk New Member

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    Once you get it out replace it with this. A notorious problem. Credit to someone on this site for teaching me this.
    upload_2021-12-30_18-44-40.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 31, 2021
  10. Dec 30, 2021 at 6:18 PM
    #10
    DSLKSL

    DSLKSL New Member

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    Insert a hex bit, smack it with a 5lbs hammer like you to drive it through once. Then remove it.This type of thread always acts like this on the 1st removal.
     
  11. Dec 30, 2021 at 6:28 PM
    #11
    parkerbows

    parkerbows New Member

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    yeah i learned always go after the drain plug first
     
  12. Dec 30, 2021 at 6:29 PM
    #12
    parkerbows

    parkerbows New Member

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    you will get it though, in easy area at least
     
  13. Dec 30, 2021 at 6:38 PM
    #13
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos New Member

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    It’s always good practice to loosen the fill plug first. What if he drained the diff and then couldn’t get the fill plug free? Would be a bad day.
     
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  14. Dec 30, 2021 at 6:41 PM
    #14
    parkerbows

    parkerbows New Member

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    oh shit your right I said it backwards. so yeah nothing done wrong. couple beers tonight
     
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  15. Dec 30, 2021 at 7:08 PM
    #15
    IowaGuy

    IowaGuy [OP] New Member

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    Yes I made sure the fill plug came out first.
     
  16. Dec 30, 2021 at 7:17 PM
    #16
    NWPirate

    NWPirate Give me overtime or give me death

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    I welded mine, this was a couple years ago. Worked awesome.
    Screenshot_20211230-191627_Chrome.jpg
     
  17. Dec 30, 2021 at 7:31 PM
    #17
    Zebruaj

    Zebruaj New Member

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    Air hammer with a chisel bit. Couple taps and it turned for me.
     
  18. Dec 30, 2021 at 7:35 PM
    #18
    Backslider

    Backslider Thirsty...

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    This is the easiest, most reliable, and least frustrating solution.

    Your problem also highlights why you always remove the drain plug last.
     
  19. Dec 30, 2021 at 7:36 PM
    #19
    MadMaxCanon

    MadMaxCanon New Member

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    Too many, but not enough....
    So that's where my 10mm is....
     
  20. Dec 30, 2021 at 7:42 PM
    #20
    NWPirate

    NWPirate Give me overtime or give me death

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    :D
     
  21. Dec 30, 2021 at 8:16 PM
    #21
    IowaGuy

    IowaGuy [OP] New Member

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    Humm, I wonder if a big glob of JB Weld on the hex socket and plug would hold enough to crack it loose? Also if I use a chisel should I use a flat cold chisel or a punch type?

    I have the fluid replaced and it doesn't need maint. again for quite a while but now it is just irritating and a challenge to get it loose.
     
  22. Dec 30, 2021 at 8:18 PM
    #22
    IowaGuy

    IowaGuy [OP] New Member

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    Also the plug looks like aluminum, can it be welded with a normal stick welder or do I need a special setup?
     
  23. Dec 30, 2021 at 9:50 PM
    #23
    SnowB0und

    SnowB0und New Member

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    I did the same thing on my Tacoma. The heat from welding definitely helped.
     
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  24. Dec 31, 2021 at 12:16 AM
    #24
    Chip_Tundra

    Chip_Tundra New Member

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    Get yourself the one on the right next time. Not all 1/2" drives are the same lol. A little PB blaster and some leverage works wonders.

    20211231_001040.jpg
     
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  25. Dec 31, 2021 at 5:37 AM
    #25
    Backslider

    Backslider Thirsty...

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    I am extremely doubtful the plug is aluminum... similarly doubtful that JB Weld would give the bind needed to break it free.
     

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