Fuel pump not turning on with key

Hi, I’m a new member here. I own a 2011 5.7l Tundra non flex fuel, gas only engine.
I was experiencing hard starting and low fuel pressure at startup (20psi and less). I diagnosed it as a bad fuel pump and replaced it. Now I have no fuel pressure at all. The engine just cranks, no start.
I thought it was a defective pump so I returned it and installed another one and still same problem. Took it to a mechanic. They checked ECM and Fuel ECU and both are good. Relay and wiring all checks out good. The shop just called me and said they can’t fix it. Any ideas

 

They gave up!? Wow. Check the fuses? Fuel line and return clear? Fuel filter? Getting power to the pump right? Maybe it’s just not primed.

 

Yes they just called me to apologize that they can’t figure it out. They called in a specialist from Toyota and still couldn’t figure this out.
Fuel lines are clean and clear and on the 2011’s there is no external fuel filter.
They replaced both the ECM and ECU and still no start. The immobilized turns off with the key so it’s not that. Fuses are all good too! What are they missing??
The engine will start when they jump power direct to the pump though

 

that mean the wire broke somewhere, got no power to pump

 

They checked wire harness to pump and there is proper voltage power being sent through wiring harness.

 

connection right at the pump then

 

How did you confirm that the original pump is dead?

 

If they can start it by providing power directly to the pump, then it's something along the way. Could be an ECU issue, bad sensor, short in the wiring, bad fuse, bad rely, bad connector, etc. You're probably going to have to check it at each junction to make sure that the proper amount of power is being sent all the way to the pump.

 

Have you tried a different key in the ignition? Maybe it's your key or key cylinder that's bad. Bit of a stretch, but it doesn't make sense if everything else along the way electrically checks out.

 

Was there ever a solution to this problem OP? I think I have a similar issue with my 2011.

 

I fixed a 2009 with this issue. The connector to the fuse backed off into the fuse box. So the fuse was in place, but not making contact. The ECU for the fuel pump went bad, owner kept changing fuses as they were blowing a lot. I opened up the fuse box and spliced a inline fuse holder in the circuit.

 

So it was both issues for him? Fuel control module was bad and the connector backed off? ECU bad > blowing fuses > changing fuses > eventually fried the connector ? Something like that?

 

Yes. the fuse was getting hot, softened the plastic around the metal female receiver to the point the piece backed out of place into the box. The controller was shot, causing the short.

 

Which fuse? Think I’ve got the same problem now too on my 2014!

 

Good day all.
Having exactly the same issue.
1 week ago the truck quit while driving.
Hauled it back home. The fuel pump fuse was blown, he checked that first, changed it and it blew again with the key on, & changed the relay.
He has put a new fuel pump assembly in and a new fuel pump driver module to.
He took the old module apart & we can see a burn mark in it.
He has traced the wiring to see if there was anything chewed or disturbed,
and all looks good.
We cannot hear the fuel pump.
This 2013 tundra has 65,500 miles on it, and has been dependable,
until now.
I greatly appreciate any clues on what to do next.

 

Well mine were a couple but the problem was cab mount rusted out and pinched the passenger side wiring harness. Also check under fuse box if you keep getting burned out fuel pump fuse I had those wires corroded as well

 

Call if you need help 2075617691

 

Thanks. Nothing is corroded.
Looked all over.
While the truck is cranking, we can smell gas at the tank area, and not in the engine compartment.
No leaks anywhere.
He pulled the fuel line at the rail and nothing comes out while cranking.
It will run on starting fluid.

 

My wires at the plug were corroded those plugs come apart check those

 

Try to unplug your wiring harness top and bottom then see if it will start

 

Check your throttle body and wires

 

I went through this replaced everything it could be no fuel at the rail jus like your having wiring check to see if any the pins are broke or burned where wiring harness connects

 

Try to put your key in have the door open see if the door chime goes off

 

This is an older thread on this well documented issue for anyone that is experiencing a Cranking but No Start situation on these Tundras with the flashing 4Lo and the Traction Control light on (those two only) but also where you have NO Communication to your ECM (i.e., OBD-II scanner cannot communicate with your engine computer) AND you do not have a Check Engine light on and no apparent codes as a result AND you have determined that you have no fuel pressure, then closely check the following:

Pull the fuse for your Ignition in the main fuse block (Red-10A) and swap it with another 10A fuse that isn’t critical (like the ECSW) and before you plug the swapped fuse back in take a small metal pick and make sure the socket terminals are tight and contacting each other for each side of the fuse. Also take the same pick and ensure that both sides of the fuse blades are clean from any corrosion. Firmly push the swapped fuse in the Ignition position and try starting it. There is a good chance that it will start. My 2012 Tundra with a 5.7L had this exact same issue and this was 100% the reason why it wasn’t starting. My truck was down for three weeks while I went through the procedures shown on AllData.com for a “Crank, No Start” condition. The key in this particular issue is that your ECM isn’t getting power which you can verify by looking up how to confirm ECU power on AllData. When you turn the key on, 12V passes through the Ignition fuse and over to the Ignition Relay that is integrated within the Integration Relay that is located in that same main fuse block. The Ignition relay then sends power to the ECM which in turn sends power to the Fuel Pump Relay which then sends power to the fuel pump ECU which sends power to the actual fuel pump. Here’s the kicker in my situation, the Ignition fuse that was in that slot was a replaced Mini Blade fuse that was good (not blown) but it wasn’t a low-profile mini blade fuse like the factory ones. I just decided to swap it with another factory 10A fuse and it started right up and has continued to do so. I’m convinced that the socket terminals for whatever reason either had enough corrosion built up on them or were spread apart just a fraction of an inch too much (maybe due to someone pushing a multi-meter probe in there). I also noticed on the factory fuse I pulled to test with that the blades looked like they had some level of natural corrosion on them. That’s why I suggest scraping the blades to expose bare metal. I didn’t suggest simply trying a new fuse only because the fuse that was in my Ignition slot again was fine and wasn’t blown. It just wasn’t a low-profile type and the blade section actually went slightly deeper into the socket than the low-profile version.

In my case the issue progressively started to reoccur until one day it just wouldn’t restart period. It just goes to show you though that sometimes the root cause of the issue is something small and not apparent. I’m sure a seasoned technician would have found that way quicker than me but it would have cost me likely close to $800+ in labor costs for them to do so which I gladly would have spent if I hadn’t found this out. I hope this helps someone else.