Fuel Pump Problems. New pump now have pressure but still no start.

2011 Tundra with the 5.7. It's my aunts workers truck. Been sitting for 6 months. She asked me to help him out since he was making deliveries for her shop but he hasn't been able to since the truck has been down.

Day 1. - Get out there and no fuel pressure or so I thought..... I realize now that the truck doesn't prime in the traditional way. I did double check the fuse and relay that's why I figured fuel pump.

Day 2 (today). - I tilted the bed only to figure out the fuel pump is under the cab.... so I drop the tank. Everything goes decently smooth. Didn't break any of the clips or the wire harness. Get it down and out and pump replaced and back in. I hook everything up and still no start...... so hook up fuel pressure gauge again and it does have fuel pressure (jumped to like 60 psi I didn't check for a leak down I figured it would start with 60) but only when cranking. In a last ditch effort I tried jumping the battery (which owner thought was the issue previously and he already replaced) and still cranking but no start.

Been surfing the forums. What's this fuel pump ECU? Any help appreciated guys. Just trying to help a friend and also family at the same time but I am thinking I just replaced a fuel pump for no reason. I don't think I tried starting it the first time with the gauge just thought it would prime with the turn of a key. I don't have the heart to tell him I just had him spend $300 for probably no reason regardless just want to help him get his truck back on the road. It's been sitting 6 months. Any help or guidance much appreciated.

 

Are you sure it's a fuel issue? Have you verified it's getting air and spark? Does it run with starter fluid? Not sure what a fuel pump ECU is, if that's a thing then you could manually wire the pump on and then it should start up if that thing is a thing and it isn't doing anything. Otherwise sounds like something is not telling the injectors to fire, again assuming you already checked that it's getting spark. Either way, sounds electrical so good luck lol

 

What I will be doing next. I have my spark plug light thingy. That or I will be putting the spark plug close to the block trick. I checked air filter and it was good enough. Haven't tried to run it on starting fluid. I assume these have timing chains and are computer controlled timing so I haven't done anything to check that.

 

Try his other key. I have had a key go bad and it would just crank. Fired right up with the other key.

 

Could be the key. I would try the starter fluid first. If it does not hit or try to start I would see if it has spark. I would try to narrow it down a little to a fuel or ignition problem. Probably wouldn’t hurt to look through the fuse box.

 

It might be the fuel pump control located on the frame rail behind driver rear tire

 

What does it do when you turn the key over?? Does it just click black out and come back on? Does it click and try to turn over and doesn't?? A little more information can be useful. May possibly be something else. At 159k it may possibly be the starter. Mine died at 210k, but I've seen on this forum where starters die between the 150 to 220k range. A delivery truck, just assuming, may kill that starter that much faster as multiple starts will give the gears enough wear and tear to half it's life cycle. Try beating that starter first and try turn it over. I do believe the Tacoma forums might probably have a lot better information on the V6

 

If it fires on starting fluid then it's a fuel issue or electrical/fuel issue. You can eliminate the fuel controller module very easily, sometimes called the fuel ecu but the actual name is fuel controller module. For example: on a 2010 tundra TRD offroad, w/o flex fuel, 5.7L, the control module is located on the inner portion of the rear driverside frame rail. It has two plugin connections. The one connector has two larger wires (compared to the rest of the wires in both plugins) one blue and one red, the blue wire is constant 12 volts, at least while the pump is activated, and the red is 12 volts until the pump is actuated, it thenis switched into a ground connected via the control module. If the red wire (in this example) does not loose its 12 volt reading during pump activation (key cycle) then the module is bad and needs replaced, some require programming after replacement.