Fuse Tap Ignition Question

2007 Tundra, 4wd, 4.7L V8, RCLB

Looked on the post "Installed automatic nanny bypass!" for which fuse @Mountun Goat tapped into, he said the cig fuse...

Attached are photos for my custom fuse block and relay which powers all my aftermarket accessories, I'm looking for a fuse that gets power when keyed on and or truck running, (to activate the relay so the fuse block gets power). I tried testing the fuses on the inside fuse block for key on power but I wasn't able to read any voltage (maybe I'm doing it wrong?). Should I tap into the cigarette lighter fuse? Or is there a different one I should use?

Ultimately just trying to activate the relay when the truck accessory is on or truck is running, and when truck is off, relay/fuse block is off, that way I can't accidently leave on any lights

 

Okay, yes different years, but, hopefully you have a fuse marked " IGN". This is how I power my Switch Pros controller. Only time it's powered is with ignition on. I used a fuse tap on the fuse box next to the battery. I hope this helps. It's a cool 90 degrees at 2354 hours, almost had to put on a jacket to take the pictures.

 

Forgot to quote in the message

 

So to keep the fuse box sealed, you ran the wire down and out the bottom?

 

Figured out what I was doing wrong, I'm using a multimeter not one of the just power testers, I can't put both power and ground on the fuse as if I'm checking for continuity, have to ground the negative... figured it out! Thank y'all!

 

Yes sir

 

Ahhhh....Thanks for posting this.

So, dumb question here.
How is the wire run down and out the bottom if the fuse box is sealed?

 

Bottom of the fuse box has a hole in it for wires to run out of, mine wasn’t sealed and I could easily add the extra wire

 

Same for mine.

 

Thanks again for this info. Sent the hubby out to look for the "hole" but found the bottom of the fusebox has many slots. I guess they are for ventilation of some kind. They are hard to see through all the fuses and such, but once you knew what you're looking at it became clear, there were many routes to wiring to access. So, using a wire tie with a hole drilled to accommodate the 18 gage wire, it went right through the bottom and out to where we need it. The wire is for a backlit controller (in the cab) for the accessories and everything goes to a switched power supply so the wire didn't have to be no more than the 18 which is part of the controller. Thank you once again as this made the wiring look neat, clean and left the fusebox intact.
Cheers!