GEN1 driving lights help needed please (aftermarket)

2004 Double-Cab SR5 4WD

Newly acquired Iron Bull bumper with ~4~ driving light cutouts (lights are already in; bought through Iron Bull with bumper)

Trying to find applicable Y-connector or split adapter or whatever it is that I’d need to run the ~pair~ of left side lights to the ~single~ left side factory fog light plug (and the ~pair~ of right side lights to the ~single~ right side factory fog light plug)

The lights don’t have any plugs on them, just wires that need to be run to whatever method is used

Again, I’m hoping that something Plug’n’Play exists, but I’m having no luck finding anything so far, but that’s probably/hopefully just because I’m inept with stuff like this and am looking up the wrong terms

I know I could do the wiring without such a connection, or rather *have it done* (again, I’m inept) but I’d really like to avoid that… like I said, I’m *hoping* that a simple plug’n’play option exists and that I’m just not knowledgeable enough to spot what I need

Thank you so much for any and all help; my truck is so close to having a nose again… so close to no longer being part of the NBC at work (No Bumper Club) and finally having much desired extra lighting

 

Post up some pics of the bumper and lights and stuff.
As for your wiring ideas I'm gonna tag the wiring man @daveeasa
Also to keep in mind if you wire it like this you won't be able to have your hi beams on along with your new in bumper lights since once your hi beams are on your fogs aren't. I'd assume these in bumper lights aren't something you'd want to drive around with on all the time either. They'd probably be blinding people wouldn't they? I have my in bumper light bar wired to work with my hi beams.

 

hopefully these suffice

(If it looks odd, it’s just because the bumper is currently upside-down)



I actually was fine with the idea of “on with low’s; off with highs”

I would be adjusting them downward a little to minimize the blinding of others

Aside from that I seldom use my high beams. I’m the guy that flicks them on for a few seconds as needed and then drops them after that (or if I see headlights rounding a corner I drop them back to low beams)

it bothers me so much when people drive with their hi-beams on when they just need their regular lights. Nothing is more fun than a Miata or a Camry blinding me in my truck

 

Fog lights in out trucks are H11, yes?

So H11 male to double wires?

A photo of the fog connector could help confirm and determine polarity.

 

My guess is you need something like this first.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Wire-Pigta...Replacement-Socket-Connector-OE-/161559514470


Then these should just be P&P
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Splitter-W...acement-Female-Connector-Socket-/143339858082

Edit: I suppose you can cut off the connectors on the second link and splice into lights on the bumper.

 

So 9006 which is the same as H11 for the OEM connector side?

Personally I would try to eliminate extra terminals if possible and just double-crimp male terminals then connect to the bare wire. Ideal would be to crimp the terminals directly to that wire if you want to buy the tools, it's easy to get the male connectors and terminals.

 

Sorry, yeah I should’ve posted these to start

Prolly not the worst idea to replace the end plugs with new ones; several years overall without a nose so who knows how much crud is up there

 

I'm not an expert in 9006 but that looks like 9006 to me.

I will double check but I think I only have H9 and 9005 males so unless 9005 and 9006 males are the same size and shape you might just want to buy 9006 pigtails and the connect the reds and blacks.

If it were me, I'd maybe cut and crimp on a different connector since with this bumper you'll never go to halogen bulbs again. Deutsch or amp or 090II or weatherpack or something.

 

Sorry to say but I’m oh-so confused

So I looked up H11 and they look like they are similar, but the look different where I circled



I also looked up double-crimped males and saw this…





If I’m understanding this correctly, I’d just have to get the correct plug to the single bit that would go to the OEM side and then tie the split end to the driving lights in the bumper?

Am I at least in the ballpark?

 

Tractor supply usually has a kit.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/p...AcRhNbmSlkog0eNAoXjCNM2CRJfaKglEaAsfaEALw_wcB

 

I’m more looking for something simpler than that, but thank you; I’ll keep it in mind

 

Yeah, I think H11 and at least one other connector type (maybe H16?) are compatible on the male plug side. I'm not super up to date on this stuff other than H11 and H9 can use the same male. Do you have OEM bulbs and if so how are they labeled?

If you want me to order some 9006 males I can double crimp bare wire for you. But, like I said, given that this is a replacement bumper and you don't have intention of going back and the OEM females don't look great either, I'd put on a 2 position waterproof connector which isn't bulb specific, probably go with weatherpack and then try to match input and output gauge-wise just to make those connections easy.

 

I never actually had fog lights on my previous OEM bumpers (I went through 2, which I why I opted for a beefy-boy this time) but they each had the covered hole for fog lights

However the wiring was already there

 

Ah, you never had bulbs in, gotchya. If I get back to my truck I can check the bulbs. If you're not too gunshy, just wire up the connector of your choice. Having a deutsch kit is nice, the $40 crimpers work fine.

 

so my buddy might have a fair point regarding my plan…

if we run the 2 lights off of each fog light plug, is there enough voltage/power to sufficiently run both lights … I don’t know.

on the flip side, it’s come to my attention that if my truck had come with fog lights from the factory; that it would’ve/likely would have had a push button switch similar in nature to say my cargo lamp, only that the button would've been to the left of my steering wheel column


(I would just need to find the actual fog light button on a salvage tundra)

Now I’m torn… I concede that to have the lower lights operate as I’d like that I may have to have them wired in a far more advanced manner than I’m capable of ($$)

but on the other hand I’m kinda liking the the idea of utilize that blank button shown in the picture, which is exactly what mine looks like… but I think I’d have to press the button every single time I want them on, as opposed to them just being on all the time (except for when my hi-beams are on… and even then I’m not sure how that works)

sorry if I’m wearing my lack of knowledge on my sleeve, but yeah… I have a complete lack of wiring/electrical knowledge, aside from knowing that touching the exposed hot wire in a light switch at the place I used to live made my arm tense up real bad and I had to hit it free with my other hand

 

Oh, no… I wouldn’t have the driving lights on all the time, just when the headlights are on, and I only use those as it gets close to sunset and beyond

my old ‘02 had Daytime Running Lights and yeah, people occasionally would make a point to tell me my lights were on or give the courtesy flicker

I think as long as the 4 total driving lights can/will get enough power from the 2 plugs even after being split, then I’m leaning towards finding that OEM button and doing it manually each evening/night…


Hopefully that all makes sense…

but yeah, that’s a big “no” on having them on in broad daylight. But also I’ll be ensuring that the are angled downward just a little bit to reduce blinding oncoming traffic at night

 

Fog lamp switch on the DC trucks is on the turn signal stalk. You'll have to check under the hood and see if you have they fog relay in place. I had the opposite, I had a bumper with fog lights in it but no wiring. Given that you have wiring behind there I'd guess someone replaced the stalk since the non fog option is about $100 cheaper.

 

I’ll check the stalk once I’m out and about since all I have on that small panel is a blank button cover, but I’m the original owner and I’ve never replaced that piece ☺️

So did your bumper have the actual lights from factory? Mine had the holes for them but were covered

But yeah, I’ll update on that stalk though. You’d be amazed how many things I’ve been oblivious to for years and years in my life… or maybe you wouldn’t… ~__~

 

When I acquired it there were lights in the bumper, but it's also a rebuilt title truck so it's got some inconsistencies.

According to the manual that blank is for the power outlets but I don't know that I've ever seen it anything but blank.

 

I think I overstated / misdirected on the fogs as running lights. There is a particular setup that drives me crazy, and it's not factory or SAE with proper cutoff. I should have gone to bed earlier

 

Fog lamp switch is either on left dash or stalk depending on year.
Don't ever buy pigtails for Toyotas. Dealer sell the connectors and you just move your pins over to new connector
Depending on amperage you may want to consider a light relay to avoid overloading the switch

 

You’re totally fine. My previous truck, ‘02 AC had Daytime Running Lights

I’m talking about setting this bumper and driving lights on his successor, an ‘04 DC

I just have to figure out what I wanna do regarding the setup I think. Im so new to this aspect of updating equipment, so this thread has been fantastic.

I’ll try and see what’s behind that blank on the left-side panel as well as that stalk and see where that leads

 

Alright, so this is my stalk where a fog lights on/off toggle would’ve been… and also where I’m certain that an on/off button would have gone to the right of the mirror switches



Just need to look up how to remove that cover to see what’s underneath (if there is anything plugged in/able to be plugged in under that dummy button)




Thank you FesterW for showing me that stalk. I never really paid attention to mine so it’s good to know that they are different

 

You may have already found out how to take that panel off but the top portion simply snaps in place but one needs to remove the bottom portion trim to work on the switch panel. The bottom portion is held in with 4 10M bolts. The top right portion of the bottom trim at the gear shift area/IGN key, can be a tad difficult unless you remove the black combination meter trim held in with 2 philips screws. The blank you wish to use should be free. For my 04 Limited DC with RSES, that blank area for you is where mine has a 115v AC switch for rear AC plugin as part of RSES pkg.

 

I’ve seen that AC 115V button on some other panels online

I think the easiest thing for me to make this idiot-proof (me-proof) is to hunt down a panel that has the Fog logo on that blank spot. If I get that whole small panel and the computer board behind it, I’ll just swap the panel out wholesale. The fog button should operate as intended and I don’t have to worry about swapping out just one piece

 

I bought this kit. It comes with everything that you need, including the oval push-button switch, which just pops into the blank location. It has worked well for me for years. Good luck figuring it out.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/353188133276

 

hmmm… I might contact them to see if they offer just the switch/button. That’s the only piece I need apparently. As far as the rest of the truck wiring goes, I’m all pre-wired

just gotta get new connectors at the light end and take him in to get each pair of lights (left pair and right pair) tied together and get it all plugged in; at least that’s what it sounds like

we figured out what brand and specs the lights are, and my buddy says that there should be no issues running the 4 lights off the fog light plugs

says I should prolly put in a new fuse and relay just to be safe if I understood him correctly

 

This cable…



Led me to the site where I eventually found the same unit…



With these specs…



…

which my buddy helped break down into terms that even I can understand



He sees no problem with the voltage drain with 4 LED’s since the it was designed to work with the draw of halogens

again, that’s if I’m understanding him correctly

 

As long as the circuit is fused for 15 or 20 amps you'll be fine just using what's already there. It's already run through a relay under the hood.

 

So I got the stalk off a salvage, thing is crisper than mine was.

• headlights work
• parking lights work
• high beams work
• turn signals work

but I’m not registering anything to the fog light connectors. I made sure they were set to “on” and that my high beams were NOT on but nothing on the meter and the test light a local shop used didn’t so much as flicker

there’s a 15 fuse in the box but I don’t know where the fog light relay would be… if it’s there…

but I’m POSITIVE that when I tested the passenger side fog connector last night that I got a reading… like 3-something but it was fluctuating

Keep in mind that I am electronically inept, but I’m sure I saw a reading on the passenger side, but I couldn’t get one on the driver side

idea’s?