Gen1 factory Tow Package question

So, in the course of my Pre-Owned market search I've been using the [corporate] 'Official Toyota VIN check' to see if the subject vehicle is what a seller states it is. This is where I see a big difference in the Pre-Owned market and can be a difference maker for me since towing is my priority.
Although 'most' 1st Gen Tundras have trailer hitches and lighting pigtails that look Toyota OEM, the Toyota VIN check specifies wether or not Tundras of my interest [05-06] were Toyota equpped as:
"TO Towing Package with 130 Amp Alternator,Transmission Cooler, Tow Receiver Hitch,7 Pin Connector w/ Converter "...
So, my question to the knowledgebase here is:

1. If not specifically listed per Official Toyota VIN sheet, are trucks otherwise dealer 'add-ons' spec'd as 'Tow Package' by seller?
[ex: dealer or owner may have added Cls4 hitch and nothing else since almost every VIN for 05-06 years specs a 4pin pigtail; in this case is the OEM Tow Package 'Trans cooler and 130 Amp alternator' that much better? OR were there different grades of trans-coolers and alternators otherwise?]

2. Now to publicly display my lack of towing knowledge:
What's the benefit of the '130amp' alternator spec'd in Toyota Tow Package?

3. Also, In my rating of subjects I've seen over last 30 days, I placing the Toyota OEM 'Tow Package' as a 'deal-maker' truck over others not 'Toyota VIN' specified, all other things equal [ ID yr, mileage, cost,etc].
Am I over-valueing the official 'Tow-Package' subjects, since all of those items may be post-factory add-ons by competent hands?

Standing by for some more Tundra enlightenment...

BTW: this may need to be moved by Mod needs to a better forum.

 

As it’s Friday night, I’m going to be quick. My truck never came with the factory tow package. I added the Curt receiver and a 4 pin that uses the factory wiring. No hackery of splicing. I now have the upgraded alternator. Towing with my set up doesn’t scare me at all. Without the trans cooler, I wouldn’t be towing anything over 5k. What I have is good enough for me.

The manufacturer that I work for has “port installed” hitches and “dealer installed” hitches. They are the same parts and install follows the same process. The only difference is that (for us) a dealer installed hitch will not show up as a factory option on the vehicle inquiry sheet.

 

What are you looking to tow? Or better yet, what is the weight of what you’re looking to pull with a first gen?

 

thanks Black..thats helps.
Expected trailer + boat = 5000# max.
longest haul: 80 mi roundtrip up n dn I-5 [SoCal: sometimes 5-20mph for 10miles/trip] about 2x/year.

 

The standard trans oil cooler runs a line up into the radiator and has a secondary system inside the radiator end tank that runs "semi cool" (180* water) around a line that the trans oil passes thru.
The towing package has a secondary oil cooler, with additional lines that run up behind the grille in front of the radiator support and has a separate trans oil cooler behind the grille. Its about 7"x10" maybe just a guess at what i remember, probably a 6 or 7 row oil cooler. This helps add more fluid to the trans, and runs it behind the grille to get ambient temp air running thru it to help cool the trans fluid down even more. I can tell you after towing a 4500lb enclosed V-nose trailer on the highway at highway speeds which felt perfectly fine and easy for the truck to manage, the trans temps were HOT. Its been years and years ago since i did it, afterwards i bought a diesel to start towing my trailer cross country but at fuel stops i used to use a laser temp gun and walk around the truck and measure temps of brakes, tires, exhaust, all to try to keep an eye on things and find potential problems before they became a big issue. I would stop, get my fuel running, and walk around the truck testing temps of everything. Once upon a time i popped the hood and checked the temp of the trans cooler and it was like 245 or so i remember. I said "theres no way its that hot i'm not going that fast" so i touched it with my hand and it scalded my hand like i grabbed a boiling hot pot on the stove. I actually think that was my last trip out west in a gas burner, and i think i bought my first diesel afterwards for towing my trailers. Since these trucks dont have a temp gauge or a light unless your fluid is low, its something to worry about. The biggest thing with any lubricating fluid is they break down with heat. Every lubricant loses viscosity as it gets hotter and older, so running a non external oil cooler truck hard and towing lots, would be more likely to get the trans fluid hot quicker and therefore break it down sooner.
Towing a boat isnt a bad load as long as its not super tall, or has a big full windshield. Boats are typically streamlined and tuck behind the truck and dont have a huge wind drag. Load on the trans is what makes heat. If you were towing a 5000 pound telephone pole, practically no wind drag, is totally different from pulling a 3500lb enclosed flat nose trailer that does have wind drag. You will see higher trans temps, with higher loads, so just be mindful of what you are pulling and how you are pulling it.
I dont think a few boating trips a year 80 mile round trip is going to cash out the trans though.

I might be wrong, but in my diesel trucks i bought (have had 3 back to back recently) the towing package always comes with a heavy duty alternator. It doesnt specifically state why, but i suspect to help with extra draw from trailer brakes, trailer lights, winches, or snowplows, ect. My ram 3500 had the option for a snow plow prep, which comes with dual alternators, heating element in the fuel tank, block heater, and grille shield. Why does a snow plow prep need dual alternators? The block heater and fuel tank heater are when you plug the truck up to 110v at night. I dunno but its just part of the package.

 

BATaco: Enlightening and makes sense...
I prefer the 'Tow Package' equipped truck, not that aftermarket additions aren't as effective, I just wouldnt know of a given aftermarket systems' reliabilty. At least not immediately while shopping the 05-06 market.
How difficult or worthwhile would it be to install a Transmission Temp gauge?

Seems like stop n go traffic conditions [typical socal] would be the toughest duty. I try to pick my freeway transit windows to avoid them.

 

Dunno never tried to install one, if the non trans cooler trans has the ports for it the trans cooler just has plugs in them, then you should easily be able to tap into them and get a reference for temp. I cant say i am not a guru on what all these trucks have underneath them, i dont know what a non towing equipped trans looks like to know if there are ports. Heck if it has ports, you could easily buy a trans oil cooler off JEGS and hook it up if it became a real problem.
I can tell you one thing, you said up and down the 5, whatever you do, dont do the cajon pass towing with that truck in August. I remember back like 2014 or 2015 when you guys were having a major heat wave in mid august it was like 110 or something. I was leaving LA and heading up to Beatty Nevada and went up the 15 and had never been on the Cajon pass before but QUICKLY learned that you need to have everything perfect, and have more than a half a tank of fuel before you head toward the Cajon pass. Shit man it was an absolute parking lot, it took me almost 3 hours to get to Victorville and i was on fumes in the fuel tank. There were so many cars overheating, trucks stopping, the right 3 lanes were a parking lot the futher you got up the hill. Once you get around the big turn to the top there were cars overheating in almost every lane, you had to weave in and out of cars sitting with the hood up overheating and smoking. I wont ever forget that, it was an absolute nightmare. Funny thing for me though i fueled up and drove straight thru death valley at like 119 degrees and right up thru Nevada. I remember when i parked at a stop in LA that day my tires melted into the pavement. I still got the pics saved, it was pretty hot.

 

Those obd plug/ phone app doohickies can read trans temp.

 

FYI: My '00 AC does not have a factory tow package, but it has both the front factory trans cooler and the heat exchanger in radiator.

 

Same here. My tow hitch is aftermarket but seems very robust. All I've hauled with it is a dirt bike but I'm sure the previous owner used it.

 

Feels like deja vu all over again. https://www.tundras.com/threads/06-tundra-driveshaft-steering-rack.140229/#post-3542782

 

The hydraulic pumps on snow plows are a huge draw, maybe 200 amps, and they get used a lot. It's like cranking the starter motor every time the plow is raised or the angle is adjusted. Plow trucks are often fitted with second batteries too. If the battery, alternator, cables and terminals aren't up to snuff a plow truck won't start after any amount of use. DAMHIK.

Sometimes. The cheapos may or may not read the trans temp sender in a Tundra. The OBD MX+ will download Toyota specific stuff to read the trans temp sender. I wouldn't tow a trailer w/out one because it's helpful to track trans temp.

OP, I wouldn't make the factory tow package a deal breaker. The trans cooler, 7-pin connector can be added and the alt. may be optional for you. If you plan to tow I recommend a trailer brake controller (did not come with the tow pkg) and an OBD reader that displays trans oil temp.

 

I think (might be the a750 only) there are 2 temp sensors. Pan temp & converter temp. Anyone know?

 

Yeah, the a340 is single temp sensor for the pan. A750 has two, one torque converter and one pan.


I use a dongle and the torque app (android) with the pids added to read the a750 temps when towing.

 

Thanks to all and glad I asked...
my towing will only be occasional and the trailer is about 900# dual axle w/brakes on 1 axle. Boat is about 3800#.
The OBD monitor sounds like a good method of monitoring the tranny.
Maybe I missed it above, but in my case [4.7L v8], whats the importance of a 130A alt vs stock [80A?] ? Brake controller?
I"ll go back and read @shiftys' "deja-vu..." link again....

 

^^^that right there! It's pretty much the same electrical motor that's on an electric (or hydro) winch or on an electrical hydro dump bed (which i have on my old Ford 4x4 Highboy). I can't remember what gauge wire was recommended for my hydro dump bed kit, but whatever i used i'm thinking about going back and installing a much heavier gauge.

 

The brake controller is probably a relatively low draw. It takes the 12v signal when the brake pedal is depressed and modulates it to control the electric brakes based on rate of deceleration and user settings (that's for a proportional brake controller).

If the trailer has incandescent lights that would be a notable draw. If there's a battery in the trailer (think RV) that is charged off the car's alternator through the 7 pin plug that would be another draw. There's a good chance that a larger alternator isn't needed if towing a modern boat trailer with LED lights. Adding a higher output alternator if you find you need it is relatively easy. For what you describe the standard alternator would probably work well as long as you're not driving short trips and leaving the 4-way flashers on when you're stopped.

 

Don’t all trailers with electric brakes have their own battery? Maybe that’s the logic to the bigger alternator.
Question for those who know, do electric trailer brakes draw from their own battery always, or only as a backup?

 

OK, that clears up why the 130a alt; correct- not needed in my case and brake controller even a bit of a 50/50 since my tows will be infrequent and avoiding peak traffic times. I think all this info has me looking at ALL Gen 1 Tundras again.
Still gotta take whats there, given Gen1s ACabs are harder to find in good shape [im seeing at least 10 DCs for every 1 AC listed online], or at least ones that havent done daily tow duty [construction].

BATaco- yes, I hope I never need to transit I-15 across hi-desert into Vegas; that is basically the only conduit from SoCal into Vegas. On summer weekends its got to be paved hell, even w/out a trailer in tow... but I bet even worse fall/winter [when the sports betting public piles-in for NFL/NCCA MarchMadness, etc]. That time of year, its actually cool enough to stand outside or walk the strip for 20 mins or so..

 

No. For instance, my travel trailer (camper) does have a house battery to run lights, electronics, etc., but it is completely isolated from the electric brake system. My buddy's 4 place snowmobile trailer has electric brakes and no battery at all.
I'd be surprised is any electric trailer brake system relied on the trailer's battery -- just because there's no means for the battery to recharge. So as you travel, you would lose braking capacity -- which you would have no indication of. But admittedly, my experience is limited... so maybe i'm wrong.

 

What are those mechanical trailer brakes called? I think u-haul uses em.

 

I know them as inertia brake systems. Works off a pendulum, or some variant.

 

The “inertia brake” system uses hydraulics and a compressible piston in the tongue to activate the trailers brakes. The tongue is two piece and moves in and out slightly. When braking harder, the trailer pushes hard enough against the tow vehicle to compress the tongue and its internal piston, that increases brake fluid pressure to the trailer brakes. There’s a reservoir and cap on the tongue to keep up with the fluid level.

 

The small battery on the trailer is a backup for an emergency when the trailer separates from the tow vehicle. The 7-pin trailer connector provides 12 volts from the car to the trailer brakes, trailer brake battery charger and RV battery if connected.

I have an 18' flatbed trailer with electric brakes on both axles and it has a small (maybe 3" x 3" x 4") 12v battery used for the brakes in an emergency. It is charged from the car alternator but the draw is relatively small.

The small battery for trailer brakes is used for emergency purposes when the trailer disconnects from the car (along with the 7-pin electrical hookup), and the pin for emergency trailer brakes is pulled (via a tiny cable connected to the tow vehicle) which then deploys the trailer's electric brakes using the trailer's small battery.

 

I never thought about how the break-away system works -- of course it would need power. Thankfully I've never had to use it. I appreciate you explaining it.

 

I've been towing a camper trailer for ~7 years with an older Tacoma, stock alternator. I have solar on my camper roof. Just a 100watt panel. My camper battery doesn't need any help from my truck to charge, it gets all it needs from the panel. Just a consideration if you're wondering what you "need" for towing. Of course when I'm camping I'm pretty light on power use. Not charging laptops and trying to run a ton of stuff. If you're into electricity and math you can estimate your power usage and determine how much storage vs charging power you'd need. Not too hard to get a ballpark estimate.

I've never run all these numbers so take it with a grain of salt, but I'd assume most people's aftermarket stereos and gps and speaker amps etc. draw far, far more power than a trailer brake. Anyway I never had an issue with the stock Tacoma alternator keeping up.

Since I've been towing so long with a 3.4L V6 Tacoma, all I've been thinking is "this Tundra will tow so much better". But my Tacoma is a manual transmission. I didn't think about the auto tranny. I'll need to check if I've got the transmission cooler. My camper is ~3,000lbs, and is not streamlined.



I also never considered how my break-away brake system worked on my trailer...So is there a way to test that battery? Because otherwise you'd never know if it was dead until it's far, far too late...It just sits there on my camper, year-round, including all winter. I've never thought about it.

 

Just my opinion. If over 3k, i just trade with my buddy that had the 6.2 gas or use f350 from work. It keeps the gray/grey hairs away ( or on my head) . Now the guys with the 05/06 have big advantage with extra gear and more power. If your considering an A340 truck your rocking O/D off whole way and depending on year anything above 3k Lbs will run through front rotors unless you really want to spend a few hours dialing your brakes in.

Anything below 3k do you basic checklist and they tow good.

 

And yes my truck has early tow package witg fuse coming off battery and external cooler. All my experience has been at see level too. They are stable and take wind well.

Just be prepared for sitting near 4k RPM'S , lots of 1st gear, and pray no one panick breaks in front of you.

 

This has been "watch out" situation #1 for me in the Tacoma. It does just fine pulling that trailer, but even at 40mph, if the driver in front of you decides to slam the brakes for a yellow light instead of the gas, things get interesting, even with the trailer brake. Just like pedestrians strolling out into the street without even looking up from their phones in town, etc. Which happens so much these days. Using the brakes on mountain passes and open roads is no problem. The sudden brake slam can be scary. For me, the Tacoma was only a little over 1,000lbs heavier than the trailer. So the trailer could still push it. I assume the extra weight of the Tundra will make things way more stable and safe.

 

Yes, the bulkier Tundra will definitely be an advantage. I used to tow with a '02 4Runner. It did a fine job pulling, but going to the Tundra was like night and day.

Is your brake controller timed or proportional?