GPS tracker removal

I’m having an issue with my 05 access cab. I was hiding some speaker wire I installed and I found a unit under my steering column. (1st pic). I followed the wiring and found that it was spliced into the ignition harness (2nd & 3rd pic). I removed it from harness thinking this would just remove the device and set the truck back to factory setting but it will not start anymore. It seems as if the truck is only in accessory mode. All lights work, doors lock/unlock, radio works, it just won’t crank or start. No lights on the dash come on when the key is turned either. If anyone can help me bypass the device or just make the truck start again please help. The antenna says Trimble if that helps

 

”That is a tracking device that also has the ability to disable the vehicle...used car lots will use these if people default on payments, as it is an easy way for them to recover the vehicle.”

Looking for install instructions incase it helps. Below pics look familiar ?





From another thread online....GPS Tracker removal - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion

from linked thread in case it gets lost…

 

For your 05 AC there should be a pink wire being spliced into if they indeed messed with starting the circuit.

 

Oh wow that really sucks. Seems like the old dealership would remove it for the person once the truck was paid off. (At least that’s what they should have done, but im sure the stealership looks at it like time=money)

maybe you can call the dealership the truck came from (if you do some digging around im sure you can find out who) and they can give you some guidance. If anything, in my opinion, they should remove it for free. Nobody wants there every move being tracked by XYZ

 

Where would this pink wire be located, this is what I’m looking at

 

I also found these connections to be disconnected. I assume either this is because I have a 4x2 or whoever installed the device disconnected them. But I can’t seem to find a place where they would connect.

 

Update: I found what I could about previous owners and not much came up I called a few dealers that it may have been purchased from and they said they did not install it, anyone else know anything? Really struggling

 

Need more info than what you've supplied. While some things are same for 05 AC, the starting and ignition circuits matter when it comes to Manual or Auto Transmission and whether it's 2UZ 8cyl or 1GR-FE 6cyl.
Also keep in mind, besides the location you're showing, these type addons get installed close to the ECU which is behind the glove box. While I did mention pink as a possible tie in to starting circuit, have not found any instructions on this old unit which makes it hard in offering help. They just as easily could have tied into the immobilizer circuit.

As for the pic and connectors, I'll take somewhat of a WAG(wild ass guess). The connector marked 3 that's plugged into 2 appears to be addon and connector 1 should be plugged into 2.
For your 05 AC, there is a 5 pin connector J 3 that's supposed to be in that location. What conductors I can see are green/black and wh/blk(normal gnd wire colors). That J 3 connector is indeed a ground junction.
What that means is I still have no clue but looking at EWD it's plausible the jumper connector they added can interrupt starting.

As for that connector labeled O 5, there is indeed an optional connector that Toyota places there for a future brake controller install that one would plug a "Tekonsha 3040-P harness" into for instance.

All pure speculation on my part from afar.

 

I jumped the relay and the engine cranked. From this point it seems as though the relay is not getting signal from the ignition. I’ll supply all angles I can to see if anyone sees anything out of place.

 

When I turn the key, it does not go into “on” mode, it will turn fully as if I’m starting the truck but the battery light indicator and dash lights do not come on. What can cause this?

 

Have you considered plugging it back in the way you found it and see if it starts? If so, remove the antenna or wrap it in tin foil and see if it starts.

 

Yes that was the first thing I tried, I wired everything exactly how it was, however the antenna part I cut out previously so I couldn’t reconnect the antenna. But still nothing worked

 

Update: I narrowed it down to the black and white wire (IG1) and beige with red (ST1) wires not receiving power. I found a constant 12v and temporary spliced it into the two wires and truck starts up (I know this isn’t a permanent solution so I will remove it). However I have found the issue. Now I need to further solve. If anyone has any suggestions or ideas I’m all ears.

 

I’d call the company that makes the GPS tracker, and see if they can give you some guidance

 

Are we sure about the IG1 and ST1 and if your seeing this on a drawing, mind sharing.

The reason being, the 05 AC EWD shows where IG2 and ST2 would be the IGN SW outputs that could definitely affect ignition and starting. That's also on the assumption you have Automatic Transmission and 2UZ 8cvl engine, an important question I asked earlier.

As for the colors of the wires you mentioned and so there's no mistake in your interpretation of the way Toyota colors their wires. For instance solid black with white tracer. Is that what your referring to "black and white wire (IG1)"

As for your beige with red (ST1).....Could beige to you also mean grey because Toyota does not use beige.

Not nit picking but being on same page definitely helps when assisting from a far.




Happy you've made some progress, kudos to you !

 

Yes I have a v8 05 access cab sr5 4x2.
I used a multimeter to test for power with all the pin connections, all other pins receive power except for the solid black with the white tracer, and the “beige with red” (picture included). However at this time I double checked and the black with red tracer does not receive power either.

 

Thanks, that is very helpful.

As I mentioned earlier, Toyota does not use beige. What you are calling beige is actually 20 year old white that has faded and seen a lot of current over time.

Since you don't say, I'll assume that is the IGN SW connector I23 which all the colors do match up.
You should have 12vdc at pin 7 Wh/Red of I23 but no voltage would be at the other 2 you mentioned until it's plugged back in and turning IGN SW to position IG2 and ST2. That's the main reason I ask earlier if you meant IG2/ST2 instead of IG1/ST1 from whatever EWD you're looking at.

You can get your 05 EWD from this link if you need it....Ultimate TUNDRA Wiring Diagrams Collection | Toyota Tundra Forum

Hopefully with below pic you see you need to check for 12vdc from AM2 pin 7 WH/Red all the way to the 30A AM2 fuse. Ask away if you need know where certain connections are.

 

Okay I see, I have solved another issue, the 30a fuse for AM2 was in fact blown. I replaced it and the truck starts with a jump. I tested the battery it is 13.5 volts constant. So it is not dead. The alternator and starter were always good and with a jump it starts right up. So I assume both the starter and alternator are good. When I’m inside the truck and turn the key it clicks like a dead battery. Also the lights flicker, and the truck won’t lock and unlock like there is a dead battery. However the radio still works when I’m in accessory mode. I’m getting close, the only issue remaining is the battery acts dead when it is not, have any idea on what’s causing this? Also I am not sure where the certain connections are if you can help me with that.

 

The STA fuse is a 5 A and the AM2 fuse is the 30 A

Knowing which is which would then help in determining which direction and which connections to check.

 

Trust me, I want to help but you have to help especially when I ask certain questions that can be important when helping from afar.

I asked much earlier and posted a pic with connectors marked 1 2 and 3....did you determine if connector 1 should be indeed plugged into connector 2 and remove their non-OEM jumper connector 3

Those connectors could be an issue possibly even with the door lock/unlock you're now mentioning.

I asked....
"That's the main reason I ask earlier if you meant IG2/ST2 instead of IG1/ST1 from whatever EWD you're looking at"....which was it and yes it's important to know..

Believe it or not, some of these questions are important and help lead to solving your issue.

 

I apologize it started to rain so I went inside and tried to remember the fuse. You are correct the fuse that was blown and replaced was a 30A AM2 fuse

 

Great....and the answers to the questions I asked in post above your latest post ?

 

I tried what you said about the 1, 2, 3 connections and nothing happened, can you confirm in your truck if possible that the 1 2 3 connections are connected to something or each other. As for the IG2 and IG1 situation I am not 100% sure for which is which, I was asking chat gpt (Ai) for help on the wiring situation, I am unfamiliar with ewd and had a hard time understanding it. From the photos do all pins look like they are in the correct position? (I know wire nuts are not supposed to be used I just wanted to clean up the chewed up wire)

 

I also retested all the pins and it now looks like they are pulling voltage, but not 12v around 6-8 volts on each wire that was previously showing 0

 

PROBLEM SOLVED COMPLETELY

I appreciate all the help I received throughout this headache of a journey. Bubba you’re an awesome man I couldn’t thank you enough. Here’s a summary of what happened for anyone else who may come across this issue. I removed a gps tracking device seemingly from a “buy here pay here” lot. It was spliced into the ignition switch harness behind the key ignition. Those wires were hacked up so I cleaned them up and wired the harness back together. However still no start. After a long time searching and testing. I found the 30a AM2 fuse to be blown. I replaced that and the truck would start with a jump start. After further investigation. I noticed the voltage from the battery to the fuse box was jumping from 0 - 12v. I tightened all the connections from battery to fuse box and everything works again. I know this is such a dummy move and I kind of worked against myself but I’m glad it’s all taken care of now.

 

The main issue with all this was the spliced wires, blown fuse, and loose connection on battery and fuse box. In my case nothing else was messed with. Thanks again Bubba you’re the man

 

I feel positive you learned a few things and deserve Ata boy for sticking with it