HELP! MASTER POWER WINDOW SWITCH. First tundra... maybe last

Upgraded from a 2020 Tacoma to a 2020 tundra.


Trim is sr5 but it had every TRD upgrade when I purchased it.


no problems, except one day, the back 2 windows would not roll up.


stuck in a down position. front 2 is stuck closed.


rear power window worked fine.


I assumed it was a fuse. I could not find one in the fuse box.


did not want to pay 100 diagnoses at the dealership.


The dealership quoted me 250+ for a new master power switch.


I bought the 40$ one off Amazon. Worked great for a week


now they're all stuck closed.


The rear power window still works fine.


any thoughts or suggestions? Has anyone else previously encountered this?

 

A lot of us have gone to these switches, as they have auto down features for all the windows.

A lot of happy Tundra owners have these and have been very satisfied.

https://cartrimhome.com/Window-Switch-Automatic-Lift-Function-for-Toyota-TUNDRA-2007-2021-DA

They apparently have a great warranty too, so if by chance this is what you bought on Amazon, reach out and ask for a replacement.

My buddies Tacoma was having similar issues, but he also accidentally poured a gallon of soda on the door handle/controls.

Hard to say what the history of your Tundra is.

Goid luck!

 

I would go down the TSB and check to see if your vin number doesn't fall under that issue. If it does it's a free99 OEM Master switch. If its not, then I would check wiring on the door jambs. Before tearing up them boots xheck if windows work with door wide open or somewhere inbetween on all 4 corners. Do they work individually or just inoperable at the master switch?.

 

1: Get rid of the $40 Amazon switch...

2: Install an OEM switch...

Power windows fuses are under the hood...

Depending on model, options, etc.. actual fuse(s) and locations and label may vary slightly, but this photo gives you an idea of what to look for...

In this particular vehicle, you see the fingers pointing at 2 locations labeled "Back PW NO2 and Back PW NO1"; also in the upper right of the diagram you'll see the number 82661-0C320... just to the left of that "-" you'll see a Mini30A labeled Power NO.2, this 30a provides circuit protection to your power windows as well. So, if this is was your fuse panel, you'd have (3) locations to check for blown circuits related to the power windows...

​

 

Additionally, there is generally a reset procedure for power windows, sunroof, etc... when equipped w/the jam protection feature... If your OE switch set up had 'Auto' feature on driver's and passenger's front windows, then you'd have a 'type B' setup and the following may apply. However, this fix is usually related to jam protection faults or windows that are not going completely down in their cycles, so probably NOT your issue...

For my '21, it is this... but you should be able to find your procedure within your own owner's manual.

■ When the power window does not close normally (type B only)

If the jam protection function is operating abnormally and a window cannot be closed, perform the following operations using the power window switch on the relevant door.

●After stopping the vehicle, the window can be closed by holding the power window switch in the one-touch closing position while the engine switch is turned to ON.

●If the window still cannot be closed even by carrying out the operation as explained above, initialize the function by performing the following proce- dure.

1. 1 Hold the power window switch in the one-touch closing position. Continue holding the switch for a further 6 seconds after the window has closed.
2. 2 Hold the power window switch in the one-touch opening position. Con- tinue holding the switch for a further 2 seconds after the window has opened completely.
3. 3 Hold the power window switch in the one-touch closing position once again. Continue holding the switch for a further 2 seconds after the win- dow has closed.

 

Im a little confused. You didnt want to pay the for a diagnosis but I'm guessing you did since they quoted you $250 for the master switch? Then you bought an aftermarket one off Amazon and it fixed the issue but then failed. Did you think of maybe returning the switch to Amazon for a new one or just returning it and buying an OEM one?

 

Perhaps purchase a used OEM from e-bay. Like this one https://www.ebay.com/itm/365115728528? Need to ensure you obtain the correct window master power switch. Lower Tundra trims had the word "auto" stamped on the driver switch only. Higher Tundra trims had the word "auto" stamped on both the driver and passenger switches.

 

Friends don’t let friends buy Toyota parts from Scamazon or Evil Bay.

 

A) I would take a 2020 Tundra over the b.s. atkinsons cycle any day of my life and twice on any day that ends in Y. I owned a 2016 and its a snail that can't shift for s***.

B) Sounds like whoever had it before you screwed up the motors or electrical on that switch, and the dealer who sold it to you should be fixing that for free if it was recent. If it was a private sale you are SOL.

C) Do not let a window switch ruin this truck for you, as a former taco owner (x2), this tundra is a HUGE upgrade if you actually do truck things and aren't just focused on small atv trails or the mall.

 

I'm confused, I've heard that some first gen tundras have a rear window that fully rolls down(like the whole thing). Is that even a thing or is the powered window just sliding side to side?

 

Crewcab Tundras have this. Double and single cabs just have the small side slide window. This is for all generations, you can go see a 3rd gen with this at your local dealer I believe.

 

Woods, that's good to know, I have afollow-upp question about the first gen. I've looked around a bit but I'm not sure if there is a way to convert the rear window, do you know if that is a thing? I have an Impreza and it is bare bones compared to the WRX and STI, with that said I can upgrade it because all of the holes and electrical areas already ran through the car so I can plug and play with minimal wiring or grinding.

I was thinking it might be the same for the tundra. I have the SR5 and I'm thinking of removing the rear window and replacing it with a fullroll-downn window and mounting the factory motors in the cab below the window.

I'm not sure if that is even possible but if you have any information or knowledge about that it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

I do not know about the first gen's to be honest. You are in the 2nd gen discussion area, the guys in the 1st gen area, would know everything. I do not think it is possible though, at least in the later models. I get what you are saying about subarus, and some of toyotas stuff is like that as well, but I think the rear window down all the way is a structural thing, and not modable. @shifty` I think knows a lot about 1st gens and could maybe get you on track.

 

As a first gen owner, you need to read THIS THREAD.

From it, you'll learn a few things:

• The fact you've provided zero information about your truck, both in your reply and in your user profile, makes it virtually impossible for anyone on this forum to help you (we MUST know your cab type to answer your question)
• You'll understand why providing your cab type, which engine, which drivetrain, what year, and what transmission is important
• You'll see in the "Electrical stuff ... and keys" section: "No, adding a full DC one-piece sliding rear window is not a bolt-in experience for AC and RC owners, the DC cab rear is different from the AC/RC cab. It may be possible to install the 3pc AC slider into a RC, since the cabs are similar dimensionally, but I haven't seen anyone try it yet."

Feel free to come hang out with us in the 1st gen subforum after reading THAT THREAD linked above! We always love having new members. Even if I probably sound like a grumpy asshole in this reply. After 4-5 years of being asked the same question over and over again with little to no vehicular info included, the nice and flowery, warm glowy words tend to escape you