Help reading multimeter/concern about parasitic draw

Hello,

So I inherited a 2002 Toyota tundra sr5 manual transmission. V6 of course. My father passed and left it to me.

My aunt had it for about 2 weeks, had to jump it to get it to start but had no issues in those following 2 weeks and drove it to me. I live out of state so this was nice of her.

I let it sit for about a month, had a lot going on at the time. But for the first week I drove it around quite a bit making sure no mechanical issues were forth coming. Battery was dead when I tried to start it a week ago, would not jump even after letting it charge for a long while. Lights and such came on though just couldn't fully crank.

Replaced the battery today, no issues. Started up very smoothly. My aunt says she believes that battery was replaced recently so I was concerned about parasitic draw. I walk right in front of the truck multiple times every day, brush up against it even and am confident there was no light on or anything. But I double check and key was in off position, radio not on, no lights set to on or auto even.

So I tested it with a multimeter. I have never used one but I read a bunch before going into it. I set to 10amps with black probe in com port and red probe in amp port. Got a reading of 0.02 amps. I think that's what it means, right? 10amp setting reading 0.02 is 20 milliamps? I left positive connect to bat and disconnected negative cable from bat, then touched the red probe to the negative cable and the black probe to the negative terminal, to complete the loop with the meter in the middle. Just so you know what I did.

So a lot of what I have read is saying anything below 0.05 or 50 milliamps is fine. Is 0.02 or 20 milliamps okay for this make/model/year?

I will likely sell it. I don't need a truck. It's in great shape with only very minor cosmetic exterior issues like tiny bits of chipped paint and such. It's a manual. 270k miles on it. It's never been wrecked or anything. Timing belt and alternator changed a year or so ago, brand new headlights and taillights (the casings, not the bulbs, though also those), AC works good. No lights or readings on ODB. No rust on frame, though rust on the loops that hold strap hooks in the bed and the metal buttons on the back windows where the open/close lever mounts. Tires in great shape, 2 years with very little treadwear. Extended cab. Is 5500 too much to ask in Oklahoma? Not enough?

Thanks, all.

 

Another question I had is how you would recommend to test the battery with the multimeter from one night to the next to determine whether or not there is excessive energy loss?

Thanks again.

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/u6VTs2vhxx4?si=jpfnzJGSSU0TPJnW

 

Is the truck 4wd?

 

Yep. I read 17 mA parasitic draw for my truck, so normal.

You may want to invest in a trickle charger if you’re going to let the truck sit 1-2 weeks. Either that or disconnect the battery until you plan to use it regularly again.

 

There’s also eric the car guy https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1gijj03_0

 

Parasitic draw ... Skip to 18m31s if it doesn't already jump there.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YC--MLNIbik#t=18m31

 

Also, as you're new to this truck, you really should take a little time and read this thread: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

 

Okay, so I figured out what the problem was and discovered new ones that were not immediately obvious.

The battery drain was coming from the cargo light. When the door is opened, the cargo light turns on. However, the cargo light does not time out after the door is closed. Anyone know a fix for this?

Second issue is a bit two fold. The dash lights/clock do not come on until the engine is revved up to about 2000-2500 rpm. They come on when you rev it up and there's a couple of beeps. No dash light troubles, though. When this happens, the clock resets. I don't know if it's related and I never tested the interior lights of the truck when I first got it, but the interior lights don't work. Obviously they could need bulbs changed, or there could be a bad fuse, but I thought I would throw it in there just in case it might be related. Anyone have any ideas?

 

Thank you sir. To the rest posting about how to check draw, I appreciate the help but that was not exactly what I was needing help with. Thanks all the same.

 

It is not. As far as I am aware there aren't any 4wd manual trans Tundras.

 

There's a cargo light button on the center bezel as well. I wonder if it has the wrong center or damage to it internally causing both the clock and the cargo light issues at the same time.

 

oh, there are manual trans 4wd Tundras

 

Yes, this button lights up each time the door is opened and you have to manually push it each time to turn off cargo light, otherwise it will stay on indefinitely.

 

Check the dome light fuse it could be causing most of your issues.

You can pull the fuse for the cargo lights as a short term solution. It is in the inside fuse panel. CARGO LP.

 

So it's possibly in the module/fuse box?

I don't know off the top of my head for sure but it could be the cargo/dash symptoms are linked to it.

Was there any water leak and/or damage to the integrated module/fuse box?

 

Ultimately @Grudger, this is what he's talking about, especially if you ignore cracks in your windshield, or you've ever had your windshield replaced, or you're missing the side windshield trims, or you live in a salty climate where you've acquired rust around the windshield seal, water often will leak into the fusebox inside the cab/dash (pics & pics & pics, it happens a LOT). When we see electrical issues, one or multiple, that qualify as "gremlin" type stuff, frequently it ends up tracing back to water intrusion into the fuse panel. Basically, water leaks in from the windshield or a-pillar, travels down the roof wire or another wire bundle, and directly into the back of the fusebox. The fusebox itself has a circuit board inside, ultimately, and corrosion will cause weird shit to happen.

That said .... I'd also be looking under the dash on the driver's side for any signs someone spliced wires using t-taps/scotchloks/quick connects. It's possible someone tapped into a circuit somewhere that's impacting things. Look for add-a-fuses inside the fusebox.