How did you wire your dashcams?

How did you wire your dashcams?
I dont have my truck yet, but I understand that there is only one 12V plug, right behind the screen.
I want to get a VIOFO 2 ch dashcam. I dont wires to hang from the top of the windshield down.
How did you wire yours?
Are there wires I can use from the OEM camera behind the mirror, is the harness still there?
I read that getting power from the mirror actually cuts out the camera when auto S/S kicks in.
I heard about the passanger fuse box, but that is tight with the fuse tap, isnt it?
The truck is an SR5.
Thanks.

 

I don't believe tapping into the mirror wires allows power for parking mode if you wish to have that function enabled. I installed the Viofo A229 Pro in my wife's Armada and son's Subaru Outback. I bought the Viofo hardwire kit and just tapped power and switched power from the fuse box using the provided fuse taps that came in the hardwire kit. The ground connection was made to a bolt near the fuse box area as well. I would assume you could do the same.

 

Easy peasy. First, get this gizmo:

Dongar Dash Cam Power Adapter (5-Pin Type A) for Select Toyota/Lexus with Roof Option Connector, Compatible w/ 2024+ Toyota Tacoma

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CWB3MGYW/

Then, watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7aKps4Vepdg

This works well on my '24 SR5.

 

Don’t 3rd gen’s come with a factory dash cam option? Presumably could get the wiring kit for that and splice it for any dash cam? Otherwise yeah Dongar makes mirror tap adapters for just about every vehicle, only downside is I dont think they support parking mode. Using a fuse tap and hardwire kit gets you parking mode, but have to run wiring. Not sure about 3rd gen’s, but I know for second gen’s you can get a 3d printed fuse panel cover that allows clearance for fuse taps and your own fuse panel cover snaps onto it.

 

Dongar now makes the PRO a three position switch. It is for parking mode, no parking mode, and a timed mode (4 hours after shutdown).

It's an easy install. The kit includes the 5 and 10 pin connections and the instructions. Have used it a month and a half so far.

https://dongar.tech/products/dongar-pro

 

There is a 5 pin plug under the rear view mirror trim that sits against the windshield. It's a white plug on the left side, that is what the factory dashcam plugs into. One of the pins is powered up on ignition and another is constant hot. I've sourced the factory male side of the plug and added pins for ground and ignition. That then goes into a 12v step down to 5v that has a built in USB C plug which goes into my dash cam.

 

My front cam is connected to the OBD port. Wires runs through dash, up A pillar, and behind head liner to dash cam. Rear camera runs similar from front cam down to floor, and similar all the way to the back.

 

Thanks for all the replies. I will get the Dongar harness, currently OOS, of course.

 

I may have a harness if that is what you are looking for. I wound up with a harness, and the pro connector for my camera. Did you want the 5 or 10 pin? It does not matter which you get in reality. They both connect under the mirror or the light. Either one will work.

 

@JerseyGeorge
My truck is not here yet so I cant confirm what options really are there. I dont think I have the autodimm mirror, its and SR5. It should have the OEM camera connector.
I am definitely interested. I think the 5pin is by the light, not the mirror.
I want to get the VIOFO 2 channel (front and back) dashcam.

 

@nastycucumber My SR5 doesn't have the auto dim mirror either, and as I stated earlier the Dongar works fine--although I only have a front dashcam.

 

If you don't want to wait for Amazon, order it direct from the site.

https://dongar.tech/products/dash-c...0&_fid=4f351b07b&_ss=c&variant=45699932094688

 

Make sure you buy the Dongar and not any other cheap version you see on Amazon. I had a Dongar in my Honda ridgeline for 4 years and it worked perfectly. Somehow, the first adapter I bought on Amazon wasn't and it lasted 3 months before it fried (it gets really hot up in that area). Replaced it with a Dongar and its worked fine ever since.

I also bought the Viofo, 3 camera unit (front, passenger and rear) and it was easier to install then I figured, just popping the panels off a bit and stuffing the wire in. The one thing I had a problem with was the rear camera, I kept getting cheap Velcro that would melt so the camera wouldn't stick and the glue would melt on stuff. I finally got the good 3M stuff and haven't had an issue since. I do still have an issue with the passenger camera which I mounted on the plastic piece around the rear view mirror because that plastic keeps popping out.

 

This one I think only works with the autodimm mirror, even though there is a 10 pin port, that is for the safetysense system and not the mirror - this will not work with the non dim mirrors, you need the 5 pin, which is OOO at the moment and back March or April (was on a chat with Dongar)

 

USB cable that ran from the headliner, Door weather stripping interior, underneath the glove compartment, underneath the center console trim next to foot well, to the USB port inside the center console.

You could bypass the center console, by fuse tapping the Accessory Fuse Box and a 12V to USB adapter.

 

Thats how I set mine up too.

 

I have a full dashcam writeup in my build thread

 

It's a piece of shit. Nevermind....., it is awesome. I'll sell you one for $100 shipped. Only has 13k miles on it. You want it?

gesekee19 stop reading here.......

EDIT: I forgot to put an answer for the OP.

Once I finally got that factory piece o'chit factory camera removed, I started the installation of my after market dash cam.

I went ahead and ran a power wire since I had to run the rear camera cable up to the camera anyway. I was installing above the headliner. I didn't bother for trying to figure out which aftermarket factory cable adapter I needed since I was already running one cable.

I mounted the rear camera beside my rear license plate. Ran the cable on the back side of bumper to the passenger side frame. Zip tied to the side of cables on the frame up to front passenger seat and popped into the cab through the grommet under the seat. Then under carpet to side door channel(remove bottom door threshold trim) then through the channel to the a-pillar. Removed handle on a-pillar and the lower trim, kick panel (find a video to see how kick panel comes off so you don't break it) and other necessary trim (including the end small semi-circle plastic dash end cap.) Ran camera cable up the a-pillar then under the headliner to the rear-view mirror. It helps to remove the plastic upper center console . Google for instructions. It is real easy.

With the power cable I ran the cable from the rear view mirror back down to the passenger a-pillar under the headliner. You can fish the cables back to the fuse box (which is under the dash on the passenger side for those that don't know.) After testing and finding a switched fuse and an always hot fuse I added adapters and plugged my cables in. For most of the phishing under the headliner just push the cables up in there far enough and it will stay. The upper console removal is really easy and is needed to access the cables and adjust the angles for the dash cam mounting area. If you don't have access to the area the cables will start to pull out, push them back in, then....lather rinse, repeat.

 

Crap

 

It is very low quality, limited in features, and expensive for the use that it provides.

 

Several of us with Viofo had problems with the Dongar. They reboot during the restart part every time the truck does an auto/stop and start so you get no recording during that process. YMMV, and maybe it depends on the specific Viofo model... The answer was to provide switched and unswitched 12v from the fuse box with the hard wire kit, which was actually easier than installing the Dongar.

 

+1 to this. You can fuse tap the accessory fuse box underneath the glove compartment.

 

Anyone have pictures of which fuses they used?