Hybrid Dc to Dc

Hey all,

I'm new here and looking to provide a more robust charging system for my portable battery in my Tune M1 truck camper on my Tundra. I am doing a week long trip here soon in the next month. I have a 200W solar panel but when roof mounted the output is only 50% and unreliable if the truck isn't in good sunlight.

So my only next option is to consider a charging setup while I'm driving from site to site.

Due to the modified sine wave inverter setup on the Toyota vehicles I can't find a way to charge my Ecoflow Delta 2 Max battery by AC in the truck bed. It seems modification is the only route other than plugging into 12V cigarette lighter up front (limited to 100w draw and only available in the cab, not ideal when you need to run your fridge at the same time plus these batteries are heavy).

I can't seem to find any information on how I can get power to the truck cab for Hybrid systems. I don't quite understand the hybrid powertrain enough or find any information online to figure out what is possible / safe to do.

I've heard of a couple DC to DC products like:

Victron Energy Orion 12/24-Volt 20 amp DC-DC Converter Non-Isolated, High Power

Victron Orion
Ecoflow alternator charger
Pectron's new 500W charger

Has anyone safely used any of these products with a Hybrid truck?
I noticed the 12v battery is in the backseat of the Tundra.

 

If you're asking how you can use the hybrid battery for a DC-DC charger you are SOL there. You're not going to find an off the self product that will work with the 288volt hybrid battery architecture.

If you would have bought a F-150 hybrid it would have had all sorts of charging options via 120v AC power. The Tundra engineers really screwed the pooch on making the hybrid stand out or actually use the system for something other than a little extra power as you start to accelerate.

Main reason I didn't go with the hybrid is because added complexity, no unique features to maximize that battery, and the big one was loss of under seat storage in the back.

You can install a DC-DC charger but it will be off the trucks 12v system and you should tap that off the alternator and size your conductor based on the length where the charger is installed and the current the charger is going to pull.

Honestly in the long run you would be money and time ahead with a small 2000-ish watt generator to just charge your batteries with say a 40 to 60 amp AC charger in the rig and just fire up the generator to charge when you need to. waaaaaay less work and money, but just one more thing to bring along. This is what I do when I don't get enough solar or just don't want to fold out the panels. With a 100 amp-hr LiFEpo4 battery it will charge 50 amps (50%) in one hour with the lithium charger I have. 50 amp-hr's usually gets me about a day and a half of run time on my 12v fridge in the camper.

 

But if you could find somewhere to tap the 288volt battery this is an option (it would be an adventure):
https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/288v-320v-336v-to-12v-1000w_62123069154.html

 

I thought the hybrid systems didn't have an alternator? Yeah if I did my plan was to connect up to 12V battery behind the drive back seat but can't find any information if it is sustainable to do so as I've heard this 12V battery is considered on the smaller side and unsure if the system is charged equivalently to the non-hybrid alternator setup. My portable battery is located in the truck bed powering my 12V fridge.

 

I just went through this process trying to figure out how to do a dc to dc charger for my trailer with the hybrid. Using the 12v system. Battery charge and 14v output is via the hybrid motor rather than the alternator.

I ended up using the SDHQ kit to move the battery access under the hood. Putting everything under the rear seat looked like a pain and not safe. I then ran the 12v feed to the dc to dc charger with a signaling wire to the charger and to a relay so my feed to the charger wasn’t always hot. I am using a Garmin PowerSwitch to control all my accessories and the signaling wire.

 

Have you looked into the Ecoflow Alternator Charger system? Sounds like it could work with the hybrid 12v battery under the rear seat

 

Doesn’t quite answer your original question, but here’s another DC/DC + Solar option. I don’t own this (yet), but doing some researching to see if the charger will work with my Anker battery.

ETAKER Driving Fast Charger Fleet 1000 Compatible with M2000 Portable Power Station Generator, Car and Solar Max 1000W Fast Charging Batteries sutible for Gasoline RVs,Diesel Cars

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CTMH3V7J featured in https://youtu.be/NgA_Ou0ksMg?si=wcVutCbXsNQjRnOs

Also researching what the stock alternator output/usage is to see if I’d need to upgrade it.

The Ecoflow DC/DC charger looks slick, but it’s pricy, I’m not sure if the cable would reach/easily slip between my truck bed and camper shell, and I’d have to get a compatible battery.

Watching this thread to see what you end up doing

 

OP- I’m running the same DC to DC charger (

Victron Energy Orion 12/24-Volt 20 amp DC-DC Converter Non-Isolated, High Power

Victron Energy Orion 12/24-Volt 20 amp DC-DC Converter Non-Isolated) on my hybrid. Ran a 2 AWG from the factory 12V battery to the back of my camper with some inline fuses and breakers (Bussman). I do have a trigger signal from my Spod that only turns it on while the engine is running. It’s been installed for about a year now with no issues.

There’s cheaper 12/24 converters available but I’d stay with a trusted unit like the Victron.

 

Arinh, what setup did you end up going with? I have the Tune on a hybrid Tundra as well.

Currently running the Delta 2 with a 100w fold out solar panel, but looking to upgrade to the Delta 2 Max with roof mounted solar and a car charging setup.

 

Can you post more pics of your install of the SDHQ kit. Particularly the connectors thru the firewall of the engine bay and the cab. I see the kit requires drilling and I'm trying to get a better idea where its required? Thanks.

 

With the SDHQ kit, you drill two sets of pass-throughs. One under the driver's foot well into the front fender well and from there another set on the other side of the firewall right behind the master cylinder. The wires pass underneath the felt fender liner. Some templates come in the kit to get these wholes cut in the precise location. I recommend using new hole saws to make the most accurate cut and a file to clean up the edges. Additionally, having an angle attachment or right-angle drill will be very helpful in getting the foot well holes cut. Either way, it's very nerve-racking cutting 1.5" holes in your 60K+ truck but it's not too technical of an install. I also recommend doing it on a weekday so you can call up SDHQ if you have any questions. They are super helpful if you have any questions.