I pulled my axle in half while removing the knuckle.. now what?

on today's episode of I did something stupid and need help..

I started the tear-down for my ball joint and shock replacement, which was going pretty well until I went to actually slide the knuckle out.

I had everything else disconnected, but forgot the axle nut was on hand tight, so when I pulled, the CV dislocated on the inside end and tore the boot right in half.

A couple things to note..

• I didn't struggle much at all to separate the axle, seems to me like it could have already been dislocated, but I hadn't noticed any symptoms of that while driving. I thought it was supposed to take a good amount of force to knock those CV joints apart.
• This is a Cardone axle from RockAuto I installed a little over 2 years ago, is that a normal amount of time for an aftermarket to fail?

My big concern now is, I should probably just buy a new axle, but how am I supposed to get this one out? I remember yanking the old one, but now I have nothing to yank on.

Maybe I could remove the boot entirely and try to reassemble the CV joint.. or just a slide hammer with jaws on the CV somehow.

If that works I could try and install a new boot and reuse the axle maybe? I figure this is a situation some of you may have dealt with before, especially the off-road fellas.


(now feels like a good time to preface, I'm 23 and this is my first truck, so in the likelihood that some of these are silly questions, that's at least one excuse lol)

 

Look, I was 21(?) when I joined the forum, and I was a field flunkie too, wear it as a badge of honor because you're in the school of hard knocks right now.

Anything you don't know right now is not a bad thing, it's just an opportunity to learn! Do not beat yourself up, there aren't many dumb questions!

(Dumb question simulator: "Yo, where the gas go?"
)


Anyways, your problem... You got room for two pry bars on opposite sides to apply even pressure on the removal?

A jaw on a slide hammer would probably work too if you have one handy, which I assume you do because you mention it

Post up more pics, I need more eye balls


Music for ambiance: chill with me, and let's work through this busted fuckin knuckle together

https://youtu.be/WKSEif87L9Y?si=_CW9D1uxFsOsXF7r

 

You can dance the shaft back into the pocket, but you're gonna need to fix the boot.

We tried pulling a cv without taking off a couple skidplates & i pulled it apart a couple times, but was able to get it back together every time with a little twisting & dancing. I didnt tear the boot though.

 

Are you sure that there’s nothing left to pull on to get the other side out?
I think your axle is toast, but you should still be able to get it out. I’d suggest getting the boot off and seeing what you’re dealing with. It sounds like you’re on the right track with a slide hammer. Be careful of the seals, but you might just have to replace it anyway.

 

A couple of flathead screwdrivers will pop the axle out, just tread lightly so you dont crack the housing.

 

This is the type of pry bar I’ve used in this situation. Pry such that you’re forcing the axle out while not crushing it (don’t pry outward on the housing or you may crack or chip it — BAD). Sometimes it helps to have someone pull a little so the axle can’t slide back if you need to reposition. You only need to move it about half an inch to release the clip and it should go easy from there. Good luck!

 

To me it looks like it is possibly the circlip that keeps the joint attached to the shaft that has busted, or just opened up. You might be lucky where it's just the circlip and everything inside reusable. Cut the boot completely to get a further look to see if it's this circlip or if the bearing looks funky.

If it's this circlip that's busted, you can continue to pull the shaft out completely and then remove the spindle of CV. Either way, as previously mentioned, you will still need a couple of flathead screwdrivers will help remove the part of the axle that's still stuck in the diff.

 

A video with some added suggestions on mods to what is shown in video.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/1st-gen-lunch-table-general-discussion.60450/page-1916#post-3451375

Prying with bars and screwdrivers can work and also risk scratching/chipping the diff at the junction or deforming the dust shield on the axle end where it mates to the diff. See link above for description of using a slide hammer or long punch to tap it out.

Besides the circlip @destmtn shows that holds the cv end on the axle, there is also a clip that holds the end in the diff that is a replaceable part when removing/installing axle (super cheap and available through dealers).

Drive Shaft Snap Ring
Part #4342504020

 

Ooh. I think I'm doing the same job as you this weekend. Luckily I didn't have that mishap. Good luck! I've had my share of screwups in the past.

 

Lots of solid advice here OP. Aftermarket axles are generally inferior to the OEM. I can’t get the boots on my Advanced Auto ones to last more than 3 years even though the joints hold up pretty well. You seem to have some significant rust in those pictures. How’s the overall frame rust situation? I see some perforations. Be worth posting some pics so we can evaluate the carnage and make sure that truck is worth working on. They do surprisingly hold them selves together despite some pretty gnarly looking rust, so even if it’s bad, she may have some good years left in her.

 

If plan to replace the oil seal on the passenger side of the diff while the cv is out, understand the installed seal depth or likely will be doing it over...it does not get seated until it stops moving.

Recommend only using OEM seal for this.

Check FSM for measurement.

Picture and description of oil seal depth and abs tool here (shown on or different truck - 4runner).

https://www.4runners.com/threads/cv-axle-seal-replacement.30730/

Timmy has an in depth video on measuring it on a 3G 4R.

https://youtu.be/mh1BK5--KrU?feature=shared

 

Thanks so much for the input everyone, I really appreciate it. Great choice of ambiance music @Tundra2

I was able to get it out, first tried prying against a bolt near the case with a pry bar, which gave great leverage and was safe from cracking anything, but still wasn't enough to break it loose. Eventually I got a smaller pry bar against the notches on the axle body and wailed with a brass hammer, rotating every few hits, which got that circlip through. After that prying from that same spot slid it right out.

Here's the internals, kind of a funky 3-channel design. Those rollers are on there with needle bearings which feel like they're in decent shape. It looks like there might not even be a feature that locks the two pieces together other than the boot? Would explain why it popped out so easily.

If anyone wants to see anything specific in the cup end I can clean it out more, already scooped a metric ton of grease and figured there wasn't much else to see in there.




Also in terms of the frame, @KNABORES long story short it is pretty bad, and I've been meaning to run it by the forum. I just broke out my nuclear shop light to get ya some more pics of the bad spots. RI has safety inspections that send a lot of rusty frames to the gallows, and it just passed again which is why I decided to go ahead with some of this work, though I'm sure they're not as thorough as they could be.

I've also had it in the stealership a couple times for things like A/C diagnosis and they never said anything about it. It had the frame replacement in 2012 I believe.

From what I can tell, by far the worst parts are the UCA mounts/ strut tower area that you already noticed. The engine mount areas under the hood are rough too. When I have the struts out I plan to give it another good wire brush and fluid film blast, which I've been trying to keep up with. Scraping around it seems like there's still a lot of real steel under the crust.






I should've really hit the CA's with a wire brush before taking those pics, I can follow up with that. Frankly I'm more concerned about that intermediate steering shaft and the hard-line junctions that are starting to go.

The ball joints are going to have to go in at this point even if I only drive it another month, I guess I could still bail on the shocks and start returning stuff. It doesn't seem to me like a 'dead truck' yet. Like you say if I can keep it solid for another 4-5 years I can live with that. 168K on a well-maintained drivetrain FWIW.

Also, I realize steering rack bushings are toast, was considering doing them along with that intermediate shaft at the same time, but the 'while I'm in there' syndrome is already killing me on this one.

 

More than anything, those uppers need to go. The rack is looking sketch also but you'll likely be replacing the lines at the same time if you go there. I don't see them coming out gracefully.

 

Energy Suspension steering rack bushings are like $35 IIRC.

 

This video may help. A lot more videos out there too.

https://youtu.be/YH5Cf7uJV5Y?si=RWAIY9tNnH1BPDJx

 

Yep, I kept my leaky axles and rebuilt them while I ran Napa axles and then swapped them back in, now I have trail spares

 

noted, which means you think the frames worth working on? I had the exact same thought about the rack for the time being. Definitely sketch but it works and doesn't leak.

true not expensive, but touching the rack for anything would mean the intermediate shaft too and probably busting and replacing lines which is a gigantic can of worms I'd like to save for another day at this point.

 

I dont remember feeling any sorta in the cv lockring on the napa axle i yanked on. It slid out & back on probably 3-4 times trying not to mess with the skidplates.

@assdog check the boot on that axle we yanked for balls. Pretty sure they're caged, but it doesnt mean one hadnt fallen out.

 

Hard to say. But your frame is far better off than @Jack McCarthy 's I think, and probably @BroHon too. No offense, guys.

 

Your frame isn’t as bad as you think. Proper prep and treatment will prevent it from getting worse. The rack and lines should be replaced at some point before it begins to leak continually. The worst point is typically at the junction where the lines are clamped to the crossmember via a plate and rubber gasket on the passenger side. Watch that area for leaks and prevent any rust from getting worse in that particular area.

If the rack dust boots leak internally and dry up after sitting a few days in the warm weather you’re fine for the moment.

 

Telling the truth is always honorable Yeah that frame is pretty mint comparably. Only similarity is in the upper control arm area maybe. Ive got de-lamming in some of my rear frame rails
But I've got OEM LBJs!!!

 

Snappy little tune Noah

 

If you saw mine in the reinforcement area, even you would be shocked. Thankfully, no heavy loads back there.

 

I don't like heavy loads in the back either... If it beeps when it's backing up, I'm OUT.

 

This honestly looks like it’s had a frame replacement.

 

I've got some OEM uppers I'm currently holding them for @Dakillacore. If they'd fit, and he's not hellbent on taking them, I'd ship them to you. Would/could come with some decent OEM swaybar links too.

 

That’s a huge relief to hear from some fellow rust belt victims. @KNABORES it did get the recall done in 2012, which is part of the reason I bought it, but evidently that was plenty of time for it to rot out once. In that case I’ll go ahead with the new shocks and be sure to stay proactive about undercoating. Will probably just go Moog for the UCAs since I’m sticking to stock ride height.

thanks Shifty, I just got mine in from Ourisman but I would’ve taken you up on that about a week ago lol. I have some cheapo Dorman swaybar links on the way too.

 

On the CV axle I'd put a thin pry bar between the axle and the diff and lightly tap it with a hammer a couple of times. Should pop right out.

That frame looks serviceable to me. I'd take the time to clean everything up the best I could and re-coat it. I just did this on mine, it wasn't as bad as yours, but similar condition. For the rust belt though, certainly could be a lot worse.

 

Hey just realized I think I got mixed up with what you meant, 'uppers' as in UCA's both times? I thought you meant you had some OEM UBJ's. I just ordered Moog UCA's, but OEM's probably a better move if Dakillacore doesn't claim em. How much do you want for em?

Here are some better pics of mine with the flake brushed off. I was really considering just buttoning it up as-is since the bushings still feel good to get it back on the road, but I agree they are pretty gnarly.

 

Eh, they're not as bad as I thought. I wasn't really looking to get anything for the UCA. I know they're worth a little $$ but ... meh.

Yours don't look that bad with the rust flaked. But it looks like that upper bolt will likely be frozen to the washer if nothing else, so when you do get there, you may want to proactively buy new hardware for the install. I guess you'll know for sure once you get in there. Don't even want to know how much that long bolt costs...