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Immobilizer Issue - Solution

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by protodonata, Dec 2, 2023.

  1. Dec 2, 2023 at 2:25 PM
    #1
    protodonata

    protodonata [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2023
    Member:
    #107841
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    1
    First post - write up about immobilizer problems and fixes just in case this helps somebody else out.

    I purchased a used 2008 Tundra 5.7 SR5. Drove it home from the dealership, drove for a week, worked great then parked it in the driveway and ran into the red blinking light when the key was inserted: Immobilizer issue.

    I read every forum, tech bulletin, and spec sheet. Here is my advice if it is intermittent:

    First check fuses (should always be first).

    Second check relays. The 2008 relays are Duralast 20382 or Toyota 90080-87026 (these relays are used for blower motors, EFI, fuel pump.
    In my particular instance the relay was the problem. Electronics, especially magnetic electronics can interfere with the signal, while a relay may still be functioning it could still be bad interfering with signal but I swapped relay last instead of first.​

    If that doesn't do it you need to read codes and clear codes. You can buy the cheap bluetooth code readers but those can be unreliable or it can be more of a process to setup to work for your phone. Toyota has a program called Techstream and it works great. From what I've read the versions do not differ much but newer will probably be better for newer vehicles. I ran Techstream 12.20.024 and it worked with the J2534 V1.4.8

    Buy a mini VCI J2534 cable from Amazon.
    Setup a virtual machine (operating system running in an operating system as a program) the forum over here has a quick setup:
    I recommend the virtual machine because they have already setup the drivers.
    Most operating systems are 64bit nowadays and while I finally got the drivers running on W10 64bit it was more of a pain than the Virtual machine.

    Read codes.

    My code with the immobilizer ended up being the B2784 (antenna short) with no engine start.

    Tundra TSB: http://media.fixed-ops.com/Toy_ServiceBulletins/sb0078t09.pdf
    another forum with more info:

    http://toyosolutions.com/index.php?threads/2007-2008-toyota-tundra-no-start-with-code-b2799.111/

    How the 2008 immobilizer works:
    Antenna -> Immobilizer ECU -> Engine ECM
    Antenna reads chip in key amplifies signals to the Immobilizer ECU that confirms it and send that to the engine ECM and then the ECM allows the fuel pump and injectors to work.

    B2784 could be:
    Bad relay (try first least expensive) (~$16)
    Antenna short/ground (can test from terminals to body ground)
    Bad antenna (replace part) (~$60 used - $200 dealer)
    Short from antenna to Immobilizer ECU (unlikely but can test between amplifier and ECu plug)
    Bad Immobilizer ECU (replace part recommend from dealer not used as it fixes the TSB issue. ~$500-600)

    Having gone down the rabbit hole of forums I wish I had run into the relay post first because that was the fix (https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/unique-immobilizer-system-issue.451381/) I didn't get to it until I had the dashboard apart because I was fixated on TSB 0078-09 the immobilizer issue, turns out the guy who owned the truck before me was probably having the same issues and already replaced the antenna and ECU which stopped me from buying the ECU as the part was already the newer part.

    YOU ONLY HAVE TO TAKE THE DASHBOARD APART TO ACCESS THE IMMOBILIZER in the 2008 Tundra. It is accessed from behind the evap/cooling unit but there is enough space that once the top dash is off you can finagle it out from between the firewall and evap unit. You do not need to remove the support bar.

    Tips for dash removal:
    Steering wheel cover off first (need to turn steering wheel to left and right to access screws to remove cover)
    Center console needs to be removed to remove dash.
    Take pictures, wrap unplugged plugs with tape and label them, tape screws/bolts to removed parts.

    Other things to note:

    If you have a transponder (remote unlock) combined with key (newer vehicles) you might need to replace the battery. It is very unlikely that it is the key that is bad, the RFID typically doesn't go out.

    I was successful in removing my master key and programming two new keys through techstream.
    I bought a code from here https://pin-online.net/ to do the reset. Paid with paypal and it showed in my inbox in less than a minute.

    I don't recommend resetting the keys as you will need new keys you cannot re-use an old key if you reset the master keys.

    Overall this took me about ~8 hours with techstream setup but could be done quicker than that as I wasn't actively working on it throughout the week, probably reading all the information was the time sink.

    Below links is more information on this issue (some might be repeated):
    https://ww2-secure.justanswer.com/uploads/tyroneboman/2011-11-14_034036_2007_tundra-2.pdf
    https://share.qclt.com/丰田Toyota RAV...obiliser/Engine Immobiliser System/045005.pdf
    https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-techstream-in-5-minutes.1034923/
    https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/unique-immobilizer-system-issue.451381/
    http://toyosolutions.com/index.php?threads/2007-2008-toyota-tundra-no-start-with-code-b2799.111/
    http://media.fixed-ops.com/Toy_ServiceBulletins/sb0078t09.pdf
     

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