Improving rear suspension for towing heavier trailer?

Hi all.
I have a 2008 Tundra 5.7 Double Cab 2wd. Been towing an open trailer and switching to an enclosed trailer weighing about 8k lbs.
I will be using a WDH.
I will be upgrading the shocks as they are worn out (mileage).

I've been researching options to stiffen / improve the rear suspension. So many options.... Never done this before so I'm a little lost.

Heavier duty rear leafs seems like a reasonable option to help better control the weight as it does sag a little with just the open trailer.

I understand I can get airbags as well but not sure if that's the right solution compared to the leafs. The airbags seem like they would limit sag but not sure if they would control suspension movement over big bumps and dips and such.

I've also read about add a leafs and Roadmaster Active Suspension but I'm rather lost about how these things work and whether they would be any better than heavier duty leaf springs...

Any advice would be appreciated.

Before you go tell me to get a 3/4 ton - not happening this year. Maybe next year if prices come down to reality or if I win the lottery. I only tow to locations 1.5 - 3 hours away once a month in northern California so fairly flat.

Thanks.

 

My own experience:

Rear leafs in good shape with good arch, RAS HD all the way. I'm actually going to drop my bags at some point for weight savings because RAS is so superior.

Rear shocks I'm just running 5150s.

Tow 8k lb travel trailer.

Rear sway bar and E-rated tires are helpful, as well as scales and tire pressures to match a well dialed in WDH. 40lbs can make a huge difference.

 

You’re not going through uncharted waters here. Everything you seek to know has been covered a gazillion times.

 

If your leafs are shot, I wouldn’t recommend RAS. New leaf packs with RAS is probably what I’d do.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/suspension-advice-icon-king-alcan-deaver.65137/ Here’s a thread that introduces the major players. I just searched Alcan and checked the search titles only box.

 

If you need to upgrade your leaf springs go for it. Load balancing to mitigate tongue weight, with a properly setup WDH should help distribute that trailer weight. Airbags help level you out a bit more.

 

I’m a big fan of airbags. They basically provide a variable spring rate. Heavier loads need a higher spring rate to support/control it. Lighter loads need less spring rate to provide a kidney-friendly ride. Most HD pickups have a two stage spring pack so as to keep the fillings in your head. Don’t confuse two stage with progressive rate; any leaf pack with more than one leaf is progressive as each leaf adds a certain amount of spring rate but since they are different lengths and sometimes thicknesses (the overload spring on your tundra is the short, thick bottom leaf) they deflect at different rates or times through the suspension cycle. A multistage pack usually has what looks like a second leaf spring or two on top of the main leaf pack that engages brackets on the frame when the suspension uses up the primary spring and squats a few inches. This significantly ups the spring rate for heavy loads. The airbags essentially give you control over that spring rate when towing or hauling a heavy load as if you added more springs or that second stage. You can then deflate them when not loaded to gat back close to a factory ride.

Mine have been robust enough over the last 100k for what I do. I tow various size trailers often and am usually carrying several hundred pounds of gear. I plumbed them with separate inflation valves so that I can adjust pressures individually and compensate for any less than ideal loading situations. I also feel that this methods helps manage sway since air cannot go from one bag to the other in corners or when loads shift.

A good set of shocks and a rear sway bar also help a great deal. I liked my Bilstein 5160’s, dislike my fox’s, and just installed some Eibachs; so far so good but not enough miles on them yet to say yay or nay.

 

Great advice already given. I upgraded shocks, “E” rated tires and added a rear sway bar. Been towing a 7k camper all over the country for 7 years. 207k and have no complaints.
One thing you MUST to do is to visit a CAT scale and dial your hitch in using the three pass method. The goal is to restore most of your weight to the front axle (FALR) via proper weight distribution. And when your done you should put a level on the trailer frame and be close to level or nose down, but NOT nose up. The process can be a PIA, but when your done dialing it it you will feel like your driving on rails. Good luck!

 

This might be a dumb questions but I've never been down this road before so here goes.

There's a local hitch place and trailer sales/repair place. Wouldn't they be able to setup the WDH and stuff without me doing that?

 

Sounds like we tow similar things. Thanks for the input.

 

I did some additional googling to get a better understanding of RAS now that you guys mentioned it is indeed a legit option.
This link seemed to have the most useful info about how it works: https://www.etrailer.com/Vehicle-Suspension/RAS/RAS3611.html

If I understand RAS correctly, compared to a heavier duty leaf spring,
- RAS is basically another spring bolted onto the stock leaf spring
- RAS will maintain the stock ride height
- RAS provides additional spring rate when engaged (when there is a load on the truck). WHen there is no load, nothing really happens to stock ride quality is retained. Is that correct?
- Because RAS provides additional spring rate when loaded, suspension should be more controlled and hopefully reduce trailer sway and better handling and such. Correct?
- heavier duty leaf springs will increase spring rate, which likely increases ride height and will impact ride quality when not loaded because of the stiffer rate. Correct?

The more I read about airbags the less I think it's the right approach for what I'm looking to accomplish - better controlled suspension when loaded and better handling.

Thanks.

 

NO! They might get you close if they are really good, but typically just send you down the road with a quick lash up. You could try watching them do it and make sure its level when they are done etc. But you will never know what your WDH is doing without heading to the scales. Another good tip is that the weight distribution bars should be close to parallel with the ground when loaded for travel.

 

If they did it correctly you would have to get your truck and trailer loaded as you would for a trip and have the WDH set up at that load.

 

NEVER let someone set up your rig. Learn how to do it properly yourself.

 

Thanks for the continued info.

Regarding WDH setup, where can I find these cat scales? The truck scales for 18 wheelers seem a bit too busy to accommodate that kind of activity... I'll google more for this later.

If anyone has comments on my RAS questions, it would be much appreciated.

Thanks again.

 

Download the Cat Scale app. It'll show you where the closest one is to you then you can use the app when you arrive to do the weigh in process.

 

I got the CAT scale ap for my phone. Last year it was $12.50 I think per weigh. You can either chose to get a copy emailed to you or pick up a copy inside.

As you can see I was 40 pounds over. I moved a 38 # portable grill from the bed of the truck and moved it to the rear of the camper.

 

Thanks. Found the cat scale website. There's a site nearby thankfully. Seems like a pretty good service.
https://catscale.com/

Also found this older thread about RAS and was able to answer many of my questions. https://www.tundras.com/threads/roadmaster-active-suspension-review.103453/