Installed Timbrens SES

So my WTD hitch is adjusted properly and I’m getting good distribution but the bed sag was annoying to look at. I had airbags on a Ram 1500 I previously had and even when deflated left the ride quality lacking. So, in my research I came across the Timbrens bump stop replacement. They were super easy to install. I was prepared to Jack truck up and take off wheels but found I was able to squeeze in and could access the three bolts to remove the old and replace with the Timbrens. Right side when done had the 3/4 - 1” space between the stop and axle. On the left, I only had an 1/4 -1/8” so my truck seems lopsided, checked the install twice and it was the same on both sides. I’ve reached out to Timbrens to see if this is an issue. It did not effect the ride of the truck as far as I can tell, and Timbrens FAQ indicates while you want the 3/4 - 1” space, being closer isn’t an issue as long as ride is not effected. An odd thing happened when I took for the first drive after install. Went to pick up groceries and as I was backing out of the parking spot my back up sensors were going crazy on the left rear side. As I was driving away out of parking lot, warning came on that parking sensors were disabled and to check the back left sensor close to middle from left side. Pulled over, shut off truck went back looked at sensor, didn’t see any issue. Got back in truck, drove off, no warnings. Got home and reversed to back into spot, got warning that sensors were disabled and to check that same sensor again. It was dark so decided to look in the morning. I looked at both sides where Timbrens were installed, no wiring harness near or around the area installed, traced the sensor in questions wire path and it was no where near the Timbrens. Then while looking at the sensors I realized that the problem sensor was pushed in and not flush like the other sensors. I crawled under and pushed sensor back into place. It seems to be solid now. Have no idea if or how the two things were or were not related but glad it was an easy fix. One note in the side where I did not have much of a gap, when I was in between the tire and bed wheel well, I could arch my back and that side of the bed easily went up and I had the same space as the right side of 3/4 - 1”. Not sure if it’s because something isn’t adjusted right or what. I am going camping tomorrow and I’m looking forward to seeing how they do under load. I’ll report back.

 

they work great with load or without load, not so good in between.

 

Any updates OP?

 

They worked great! Nice ride, very little sagging. Well, up until I sold the truck back to local dealer in April and ordered a Rivian R1T electric truck. which has a payload of just under 1800# auto suspension and leveling, and 11,000# towing capacity. No sag what so ever now.

 

I did stick with the green though.

 

11k lbs for 50 miles*

 

lol what?

that can’t be right

you cant even get to a charger with that where I’m at right now, have 600 miles to drive towing Friday

 

yep, 100 miles to 0% or so...so you would probably get a solid 50-75 miles before having to recharge if pulling 11k. Good luck!

 

I went from about 0% knowledge of EV’s to too much before I made my purchase. I thought that about their range as well. It’s not going to match range of gas/diesel but works for me. I’m not an environmentalist and I’m not going to try and convince someone to go electric. With my research it penciled out for me. Real world range for me(verified by 2-500 mile trips to Seattle and back not towing and 4 trips with trailer to Oregon Coast twice and down to Central Oregon twice) not towing I have about 260-340 miles of range depending on what drive mode I’m in. Towing it does cut it in half about 160-180 miles the weight of trailer does not actually effect range much, the shape of trailer is the bigger factor. When I bought the truck I had a 30’ 8k Coleman trailer for a trip to the coast and central Oregon, before I had bought the truck I was working on downsizing the trailer. After my first trip to Central Oregon and Oregon coast with the larger trailer I traded it in on a 20’ 3500# Geo Pro. My range went up slightly but not much. I have the quad motor 831hp 907ftpd torque. It honestly tows both trailers better than my 2500 Ram with the Hemi did(which had been the best tow vehicle out of the 6 I’ve had in last 12 years(3 Tundras, a Tacoma, a Ram 1500, and a Ram 2500)On all of the trips I stopped once each way for charging about 30 minutes each stop. I’m someone who does not get in a hurry when towing so a little extra time does not bother me. I spent $100-200 a month on gas in the Tundra. My charging at home over the last 5 months has been about $80. If I use commercial charging it’s about $25-30 on average per charge. My daily commute from home to work is 3-5 miles I keep my battery charged to 70% for everyday use. It takes about an 1 hour of charging every night to replace what I used in the day, a few hours to bump it up to 100% for longer trips, essentially I have full “tank” every day if I want. I did have to spend $4 on washer fluid the other day. I’m almost to my 7500mile tire rotation then at 90,000 miles I have to have to brakes checked and the coolant fluids flushed and refilled. I’m leasing for 3 years so if I end up not happy with it, I can always go back to gas. I love it so far though. They are not perfect, some folks have had various issues and service wait times for minor things can be a bit but they offer quicker service times for major issues and have mobile service techs that will come to your home as well for repairs. I think in the 2 years I owned the Tundra I had 4-5 recalls, and a week after selling the Tundra got the notice of engine replacement recall. I really loved the Tundra it was the first truck I’ve had that I went all out making to the way I wanted, but overall was not satisfied with how it performed for me. Sorry for the long reply.

 

@closedquestion

Good for you. I’m big rivian fan.

I used their trade tool I thought it was a bit low.
Hope you got a good trade.

KBB says 63k for my 1793 without the TRD lift I have.

 

Back when I ordered the trade in factor was my only hang up. At that time they did not offer a trade in tool. You had to put the $1000 non-refundable deposit down to start the online buying process, and then you would submit for the trade in offer, you could then take their offer or move on in the process figuring out what to do with your vehicle on your own. From all of my research most folks reported wholesale offer for their trades. Which makes sense as Rivian is not a "dealer" and can't sell used cars so every trade is being handled by a third party. What I owed on the Tundra was directly in the middle of high and low KBB, I owed $50K, Low was $45K and High was $55K. I had to have it at least paid off, so trade in was off the table for me. Carvana offered me KBB low of $45K, Carmax offered me $50K but the nearest Carmax to me was a 2 hour drive and from reviews I was finding that people were getting much lower offers once in person. So, I went back to my local Toyota dealer where I have bought several vehicles and personally know many of the folks there because it's a small town. Their initial offer was $2K under what I owed(which I did not disclose when we first started negotiating, but they may have know since I bought from them). I countered with $1K over my payoff, and we ultimately settled on the current payoff amount.