Instead of 2 inch wheel spacers

So I'm looking to buy rims, my tundra came with fender flares and I've been told hell no on spacers and I know a 2 inch spacer would be what I need to make my tires stick out from the truck and not be tucked under the truck i hate it looks like that haha, I'm wonder if yall know what off set I need on rims to get the wheels untucked thanks in advance!

 

so to get away from the parade float look, you need to first let us see or know what size flares you have to know how much they stick out from the body of the truck. stock offset is +60. if you have flares that stick out 2", you'll want to get something around +10 to maybe -10 offset. that opens up the issues of tire sizes and rubbing as well. assuming you're stock suspension and stock tires

 

Well 2 inches is about 51mm, so if you have stock wheels right now, which are +60mm, then you would need to get aftermarket wheels with +10 offset for exactly 2 inches of stick out. I dont really think there are any wheels with that offset, closest ones would be 0 offset, there are alot in that size. 0 offset would stick your rims out about 2.3"

 

I have a 0 offset and Bushwacker flares. My tires (285/70/18 Ridge Grapplers) are flush with the outer edge of the flares.

 

Remove the flares, then you’ll be 2” closer to a poke.

 

+18mm to +25mm offset is the range to fit oversized tires on our trucks with a decent amount of poke. I know Black Rhino makes some wheel offering from our truck that are around +10mm offset. However, my research indicates anything below +18mm will result in major rubbing on the front fender liner and/or body mount if you go larger than 33.5” tall and 11.5” wide tire. Food for thought.

 

I think you'd be happy with the 9" +25, 35x13 setup I have. Each side sticks out ~2" more than stock.

Tundras look way better with taller and wider tires. You'll want to lift the front a little, do the BMC, and play with the plastic while you are at it...

 

285/55/r20 stock suspension but also have a rough country leveling kit to be put on in the near future

 

Yeah I could but then I have to get the paint redone which is Yeats off but in the works plus I like the flares

 

I have Level8 MK6 wheels and love them. I believe they're +18. Plus they're very affordable, they made them specifically for the Toyota crowd.

 

Welcome from NY.
Add these...
http://www.spidertrax.com/2007-Up-Toyota-Tundra-Wheel-Spacers?sc=2&category=16190

 

Not wanting spacers but thanks

 

Change the flares to EAG flares with a low profile (about 5/8"). They finish the wheel wells quite nicely. Then go with a +25 or +30 rim offset. Note: These flares are textured matte black. The more wide the stance, the greater the load on the wheel bearings.

 

My Fuel Shok wheels are +1 and were right at flush with my pocket flares. I've pulled the flares to enjoy more poke.

 

I have 0 offset. You should be good with around 0 to +1. Here are some pics to give you an idea where the tires sit with fender flares on. Something you might look at is how far out your project from actual fenders. Mine project out 1 3/4 inches. It looks like yours might stick out more than that which, even with the 0 offset, would not sit out flush with the tread of your tires.

 

Tire size?

 

LT315/70R17 Falken Wildpeak A/T3W


Pretty close to 35X12.50.

 

What mods did you make for clearance?

 

Fox 2.5 Factory Race Series coilover remote reservoir shocks on front and back. Coachbuilder 3" shackles (1.5 inch lift) on the back. Diff Drop Spacers. Specialty Products UCA.

 

No wheelwell mods? Plastic, bumper, pinchweld, BMC, etc...

Does it rub at any time, like when you hit a large bump when turning?

 

Just removed the front wheel well liners inside. They could probably have been modified to fit with a heat gun but I am getting a new bumper and the front wheel well liner will go away anyway so I figured I would go ahead and just remove it. Didn't' have to do a BMC. Nothing touches or rubs.

 

That's good info. Your tires are just a hair smaller than mine, but the 25mm of extra outward offset will make the rubbing issues worse. I debated the BMC. I was pretty sure I wouldn't need it if I used the LCA cams to move the wheel forward (more caster), but then the front would have rubbed. I did heatgun the liner and moved it forward, but it was still damn close. I could have spaced the bumper out though, that would have been easy. Anyway, I chopped off the offending part of the body mount, and didn't bother to weld a new piece on it... it was kinda fun taking an angle grinder to my brand new truck...

With a lift on stock UCAs you lose caster, and camber goes up (top of tire sticks out). Aftermarket UCAs will move the upper balljoint in and rearward to compensate for this, so your alignment will be close with alignment cams in the stock position. This also moves your wheel rearward a bit in the well... which is not good for BMC avoidance! But you also have adjustable UCAs so you can move that balljoint forward some and crank the rear LCA pivot out and the front one in to give you lots of caster; then the wheel would be forward in the well. Then you can more easily avoid the BMC and have plenty of room! Hope that makes sense...

I just got a lift recently; 2" and stock UCAs. I moved the rear LCA pivot out all the way out, with the front left in the stock (centered) position; this puts the camber back at ~0 where it needs to be, and caster is less than at stock height, but it's whatever it is. This should give me a bit better BM clearance under compression relative to no lift, and that's where you need it.

I guess the moral of the story is that I bet you are really close to BM rub at the extreme (turning + full compression), but I think you'll be able to fix it with your adjustable UCAs if that is the case.

 

I have no problems. Everything works great.