Is this fixable - Rear frame bent from crash

Hello all - brand new to the forum. I just bought a 2018 that was rear ended. I am wondering if some of you more experienced fab folks think I can weld in a new frame section, or make my own boxed section to replace the bent frame ends? The kinked area is right below the rear edge of the tire cross-member.

My plan is to build out at flat bed for hauling a camper.

2 frame shops that I showed it too were like "nope we won't touch it - you need a complete new frame...." They claimed the liability is to high for sectioning a frame on newer trucks ...

Thanks in advance for any advice!

 

Done-zo. There isn’t a shop in the world that would attempt that. Way too much liability. And as @Azblue said, whatever forces ran through that frame went to other parts and structures.

 

Thanks for the info guys. Yeah - I am afraid it was another one of those Copart to good to be true deals... In the auction pictures it looked like just the bed and back bumper was tweaked. I should have remembered the old saying "If if looks to good to be true - it probably isn't ..

I guess I will put it up for sale. It has less than 100k miles and the 5.7L. Someone might want it as base for a dedicated crawler.

 

You mean it’s a Copart vehicle that you bought?!! My sincerest condolences...and i am being serious. Copart has got to be one of the most dishonest businesses out there.

 

I think what made me think this might possible is looking at what people like papasmurf did to his frame, with all of the boxing in and plating of the C-channel. But I realize that this his was done for strength and not as a repair.

 

Why not buy a frame and replace it?

Obviously this truck now has a salvage title, but it can be saved.

All my vehicles from the last 25 years have been auction purchases. All were rebuilt to original factory specs. I find it fun, but realize it's not for most peeps.

 

Yes whodatschrome I bought it from Copart 1st. mistake... Second mistake was not buying it at a local Copart, where I could go crawl underneath and have a good look...

 

I find it hard to believe that damage was not disclosed in the description. I know they can be vague, but any frame damage is always listed.

I do agree that they have some bullshit fees, but if you know that going into the deal, it's tolerable.

 

koditten I considered that. Checked with Toyota and a new frame is $10k. Plus about 50-60 hrs. of labor to do the swap. I am not skilled enough to attempt a frame swap on a new truck myself. It's to bad because - otherwise I really like it. One owner - I pulled the history and it was alway serviced timely at Toyota since new.

 

Can I ask your location and what Copart branch you got it from?

Fwiw, I just picked up a 21 Tundra from the Baltimore Copart yard and had it shipped to my home here in Michigan.

The only thing I'm pissed about is the lot clearly shows 2 keyless fobs. Some prick knew how valuable the keyless start fobs are and pocketed the thing.

 

koditten It's not my 1st Copart rodeo. And I have done generally ok with a past travel trailer and motorcycle rebuild. Kinda strange when I did the Vin check before buying this one, it did not state 'frame damage'.

 

koditten I am in Colorado Springs and I bought it at the Copart in Albuquerque NM. At least I did get the 2 fobs...

 

Copart is, you get what you get and you don’t throw a fit. They don’t have to disclose anything. They don’t also have to disclose all of their hidden BS fees. Sure, you can find some hidden gems every once in a while, but for the most part it’s a very difficult challenge to make any $$$ flipping vehicles that are purchased from them. But if you want your own personal project vehicle to work on, then they have quite a selection.

My buddy and i used to have a copart account back starting in the mid 2000’s. We bought quite a few vehicles from them. The best thing we ever did was close our account with them.

 

Did you answer my question about this being a salvage titled vehicle?

If it a salvage title, then the liability factor really doesn't apply.

If it's a salvage title, then the truck does not even exist in the eyes of Toyota.

You need a fabrication guy that can section in the pieces.

Auto body shops are expected to be paid by an insurance company for work. Damage like this can not be guaranteed to the satisfaction of an insurance company. You need an independent fab guy.

 

Weld some tubes back there.

 

I agree, I don't see how a person can buy and flip cars from Copart. I do this just for my own daily drivers.

I usually drive them to 300k miles then sell. They sell for the same price as a clear titled vehicle with the same miles.

I have talked to several of my auto body pals, they only buy 3 wrecks a year, just enough to justify their membership.

 

koditten Oh yes - definitely Salvage. Interesting, are you saying that if a shop works on it and it is already Salvage then they are not liable down the road for the repair ?

 

Most definitely.

No one is going to give you receipt for the work done.

Any work done will be be considered work done by you.

It's up to you to be able to judge if the work is quality.

I'm sure I don't need to mention, but the job is going to be a cash job...which is getting harder these days. Most peeps don't want a $1500-$2000 repair bill to be paid in cash.

We are a special kind of stupid. We like fixing things, but the lawyers and the insurance companies want us to throw everything away.

It's frustrating.

 

This.

Don’t buy from Copart. You’re much better off buying from Manheim or IAA or even a local auction in my experience.

 

Ok good to know. I did find one shop that was willing to do a pull on it with the frame machine "off the books".

Luckily in my past Copart adventures I have been able to do all the work myself. And really only I just buy stuff to drive not sell.

But yeah- this has been an eye opener ...

 

Can you tell me more about "If it's a salvage title, then the truck does not even exist in the eyes of Toyota."

My '21 longbed just got a red salvage title last month, should I consider the warranty worthless?

New longbed frame was 19K and the labor would have put the repair at 25K so my insurance just called it totaled and paid me out...I bought the truck back for 20K(it has 21K miles on it.)

 

Copart sells the stuff that curbers buy from other auctions and screw themselves on. Unless you’re gods gift to automotive repair steer clear.

 

If the car is salvaged you lose the warranty. They won’t look, don’t tell them.

 

Ok
Good to know

Didn't realize that

I could still probably get 35K for it or more, I have to point out the small buckle in the frame. Other than small buckle in frame the truck looks brand new.

I couldn't part with the truck so I decided to buy it back and roll the dice as far as the drivetrain being scrunched or not.

 

https://www.weberbrothersauto.com/product/frame-1000770431-va061/

 

Just remember, you have to convert the salvage title to a rebuilt title.

Different states require different steps. Michigan recently requires a certified rebuilder inspection before you can apply for a rebuilt title. Once that step is green lit, the local sheriff has to inspect it for stolen parts and to verify required safety features are present and functional.

Oddly enough, we do not have to have functioning air bags, just seat belts. Still it's in your best interest to replace the blown bags. They are easy.

 

Mr.bee

Interesting thanks ! I found just the rear section used but it was $275 + shipping.

 

IN Oregon I had to let CoPart convert it by law, I had to give them Power of Attorney. Had to park the truck and uninsured it for a month while that process took place. Got the truck back and re insured it. This State does not require an inspection.

 

FYI, the 2000 tundra that’s next to my screen name, i bought from copart...which eventually brought me to join this website many years later.