Is this too much rust?

I know these are not the best pictures but it's what I have right now. This is a one owner Rock warrior tundra. Does this look like too much rust underneath?

 

Looks pretty good to me.

 

Clearly they rattle canned over it. It doesn't look horrible. I would clean off the rattle can and get it Krown’d or similar undercoating and you’ll be fine. Obviously you live up North, not a whole lot can be done about rust….just take care of it now and stay in front of it. My 2007 is similar in shape.

 

I actually live in middle tennessee. This was a one owner truck came from illinois. everything else in immaculate. needs some minor TLC for the age. It all looks like surface rust to me. Nothing has been corroded through. mechanic just kind of scared me because he said it's extremely rusty.

 

Noxudol 700 inside channels, 1600 outside. My 2019 is pretty much rust-free. The only thing that pops out from time to time is crappy welds Toyota did. They used wrong filler material, which causes inner corrosion.

 

Yeah I'm trying to decide if it's worth keeping or just cut my loses. I'm mainly using it for a reliable farm truck/ daily driver. I'd like to start as needed slowly upgrading items but don't know if it's worth it with the rust.

 

He didn't see a rusty one

I would advise waiting till hot summer days, knock all plastic plugs in the boxed part of the frame out, wash it thoroughly with garden hose, let it dry well, then apply any quality rust-inhibiting cavity wax using a 360 degree wand. Outside perhaps too, since the frame is not new and has a lot of porous corrosion. Good cavity wax converts rust, it forms a protective layer which stays even after wax has been washed off. But keep it replenished yearly. Not that hard to do, and the frame will serve you well for a long-long time.

 

Too much rust is all relative to your area. That's probably not bad in the Midwest or Northeast but that's really bad for my state.

For reference, this is the frame on my '04

 

What rust?

That's in perfect shape for my part of the country haha.

 

Would basically everyone would think it would be easy enough to clean up and keep it going? nothing to overreact over? Background also this isn't my regular mechanic that said this. So don't know how much I can trust him.

 

Honestly I don't think anything in your pictures would compromise the structural integrity of the truck. Looks pretty superficial from what I can see.

 

My 09 after 13 Winters and 130K had a bit more surface rust than that but still no rot. That would not phase me at all if I was looking at used options. If that's on a truck that's less than 10 years old up here people would be like "Wow that undercarriage held up well." US northeasterners up here from the states where they bury the roads in caustic salt for every snow sprinkle generally don't start to become perturbed until there are holes where there should not be holes or actual metal is crumbling underneath the finish.

 

Thats exactly what I thought. Thanks for your opnion.

 

Looks pretty good, sand/wire wheel all that surface rust off and paint it. Good to Go.
Skid plate, exhaust, LCA, exc. can be swapped out/upgraded. You can't swap out a frame as easy.

 

No one has mentioned the plow mounts... plow trucks typically have the shit beat out of them, transmissions/drive lines,
Could be a bumper/push bar mount I suppose.

 

They look like bull bar mounts to me, doesn't look structural enough to be a plow truck mount, but yeah it's something that would make me look and think twice before purchase too!

The only thing about the rust in the photos here is that it'll make doing one's own mechanical work a bit more labor intensive. PB Blaster or similar rust penetrant is gonna be OP's friend near and dear, should he purchase this and get to installing things on it.

 

Be sure to pull the bed liner and check for rust there.

My 08 has more rust and I've committed to keeping it alive, but that's yearly maintenance and a pain every time I need to loosen a bolt. If you have rust-free trucks in your area, it's probably worth finding one.

 

For me, that's TOO MUCH RUST. But, I live in Oregon where the roads are not salted. Almost two years ago, I bought a 2001 4Runner from a lot in Portland. It was raining that day (in Oregon?) and although I noted front and rear bumper damage (pinched in an accident, obviously), I did not look under it... which was a mistake. This is more because the accident bent the rear frame rails (behind the cross member) than because of the other disappointment... the RUST! My goodness, when the titled arrived in the mail from the dealer, I realized I'd been had a bit, although it was the BEST price with lower miles by far than any other available at the time.
It came from Ohio where it spent its whole life.

I had to cut the bumper and spare carrier off with a Sawzall (no way you'd get the bolts free) and there's such flaking of rust from the frame rails that the towbar I've bolted on seems likely to tear through them if loaded with too much tongue weight, or? I've recently obtained a local frame section (unbent) from the wrecker which I'll section on when the weather improves. Otherwise, I've been able to rescue much with Rust-Mort... which is what I'd do to the pictured example before coating it with anything else.

 

Yeah... That's what it should look like!

 

This is about what my 2016 looks like, but at like 10 years younger! But also, MN winters.

 

I guess it’s all relative, but from my perspective, living in Quebec, that is just surface rust. The exh looks like it might be finished though, which could get expensive. For comparison, this is what my 07 looks like, and it has been oiled from new. The rear quarter panel braces have both completely rusted away where they attach to the bed.
If you do purchase it, I would remove the rust as best as you can, and get some Rust Converter, and frame/chassis paint and mitigate it from rusting further.

 

If there's no holes, not sure how much I would worry. Looks like general surface rust. It's all relative. Just keep it clean and call it "patina."

 

That's a good viewpoint: The RatRod look is dope and I don't see any RatRod Tundras on the web. Imagine it like this...

 

I now know the answer to what do you do when you run out of cinder blocks.

 

I didn't even notice the welded-wheel stands. They don't have pick-a-part yards where you're at? I sometimes go there just for fun.

 

Holy heck, that's like it got salt dipped!

 

It's been a long time since I've been to a pick-a-part yard. I wasn't sure if liability lawyers even allowed them anymore. But I can't say I've been to one for fun. After seeing that pick, I see your point though.

I'm also not sure those wheels are welded, so crawl under there at your own risk.

 

There is a fairly big national chain here in Canada called Kenny U-Pull. I think they’ve even expanded into some northern states.
Standard practice to use rims to keep the cars off the ground.

 

Been going here my whole life. We were first name until James recently retired.

(No Tundras at present)

The website is searchable (rather detailed). They are networked with other yards all over the West... http://www.pickapart.net/invsearch.htm

They sold me the rear half of a 4-Runner frame a month ago ($200). Now I see they want $700 for the whole thing...

This is copy/paste from my search...

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2001 Toyota 4Runner
Frame

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Year
Part
Model Description Part
Grade Stock# US
Price Dealer Info
1999
Frame Assembly
Toyota 4Runner A 1T0227 $700 G and R Foreign - PRP West USA-OR(Salem) Request_Quote 1-800-422-0114 Request_Insurance_Quote
1999
Frame Assembly
Toyota 4Runner 4X4,3.4 C 1C0207 $700 Pick A Part, Turner - PAR Member USA-OR(Turner) Request_Quote 1-888-877-6080 Request_Insurance_Quote
1999
Frame Assembly
Toyota 4Runner C 8N0338 $Call G & R Auto Parts LLC USA-CA(Red-Bluff) Request_Quote 1-888-283-7770 Request_Insurance_Quote
OR...