Issue with short pin fuse and radio staying on

I’m having issue with radio staying on and “P” transmission indicator staying illuminated with “short” pin fuse in place. If I remove it, no problem. Can anyone give me some areas to start looking?
Thanks in advance

 

What do you mean "short pin fuse in place"? Are you talking about an add-a-circuit? If yes, did you plug it in backwards? There's a specific, directional way you're supposed to install. Common mistake to make.

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Given we have many "short pins" thru out our electrical system, normally it's the opposite affect....head scratcher !
Their main use is to disconnect part of the electrical circuits that could drain the battery during storage and/or shipment.

You remove short pin and radio plus everything still works ?

Example of a short pin from 05 EWD....

 

Is he talking about lp mini fuses?

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Assume he wouldn't use a known component name like "short pin" if he meant fuse.

 

Short pins in my world are these guys, aka 'jumpers'. I'm just not aware of anywhere these are used in our vehicles. I think I may've seen one on the back of my HU? Oh well, I dunno wtf is being discussed so I guess I'll bow out of this one. I assumed he was talking about micro or mini fuses or add-a-circuits... but drawing a blank how having a fuse installed would cause these symptoms unless water got in the integration relay.

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@Curtisc , just to make sure, when you remove the short pin you're speaking of, does anything else not work ?
What your describing is odd indeed.

This is from your year 05 EWD showing a short pin that would be pulled by dealers for instance while in storage so not to run battery down, related to radio. As you can seetho, other circuits are affected if you remove that short pin.

 

OK everyone, I’m not talking about fuses of any sort. It’s located in the fuse box under the hood but it’s a “short” pin. Looks like a fuse but it’s not. BubbaW, everything works.. but with it out the radio memory does not work as well as clock doesn’t retain time.

 

The short pin in my 04 underhood is also labeled D.C.C.

Does your's also have another name besides short ?

You've got another problem you'll have to check further. The "short pin" has to stay in place or you will indeed lose radio memory along with other circuits.

From my 04 showing short pin.....



Edit before shutting down for night….
with radio and P light issue you describe, makes me think of Integration Relay box. Have you noticed water penetration on driver side floor ?

If @Shifty still around, perhaps he can show pics of what I speak.
Good Luck

 

You are correct, it’s labeled D.C.C. My fuse box is exactly like yours. I have no water issues. What and where is the integration relay you mentioned. If I put the short dcc in the radio plays, the P light illuminates and the clock and radio retain memory… but the radio won’t cut off and the P like stays on. I know it will run the battery down

 

Integration relay is the interior fusebox. It's quite common for people to take on water there via a-pillar due to breached door seal, or via lower driver's side windshield leak. It's happened about half a dozen times since I've been a member, pics and more pics, and is virtually invisible, but it leads to really weird shit like what you're describing here. There's a few variations on the integration relay itself, different cab types and options IIRC.

 

^^^^
spot on

Under normal conditions, when one turns key to ACC position, pretty much the only thing that occurs is that the ACC relay energizes and yes, the radio turns on AND the P selector light comes on....nothing more nothing less.

In fact, under normal conditions, with doors closed, quietness in area, when key is turned to ACC, one should hear a click. That's the ACC relay energizing and it's contacts closing, turning radio on, enabling cigarette lighter and the "P" indicator light.

As shown in the second link @shifty` posted, that's an 06 Tundra Integration relay backside. Your 05 is similar if not identical. Working on backside of integration relay panel is easier said than done but I feel that's where you are headed.
1) If you can, try tapping on the relays on back side of Integration relay, in particular the ACC relay.
2) OR pull the ACC relay.
According to what happens when you pull ACC relay, you may be looking at taking panel under steering wheel off and possibly air duct and then remove the Fuse/Integration Relay Panel for observation.

 

And just to ride those coattails for a sec, you may not need to remove the relay totally. The copper-oxide corrosion you'll see in these pics is - at least in most I've seen - readily visible if you unplug a few connectors, as you can see in that pic ^^. Maybe you can use a mirror and flashlight to pop a few connectors/relays free and inspect for signs, although it's not definitive. Depending on how dusty the sheetmetal is on the inside, you may actually see signs water has leaked down on the interior, but this is a weird spot where that may prove fruitless/inconclusive.

If you do pull and swap, it's worthwhile to number plug-in relay components as shown. From what I gather from one of the Texas members and @daveeasa is, there's a specific vent that may make it a PITA to get the unit out. I guess you could also test the ACC relay for failure also, but I've not seen one go bad on here (yet).

 

It wasn’t tremendously expensive parts wise. Nice to have a backup. I’d replace rather than attempt repair. Minimal dash disassembly required, socket Philips to remove a threaded screw holding the driver side vent to the dash is important.

 

Did you have a pain in the ass pulling it because of an air vent, or was that our TX brethren?

 

It wasn’t overly fun and I was in a Costco parking lot but I got it done. Seems easier than disassembling more dash but probably mostly because I haven’t done major dash disassembly yet.