JL Stealthbox

I can't find any threads on the JL Stealthbox. Does anyone have any experience with that? I want to keep everything as OEM+ looking as possible. Thoughts?

 

I had one in my double cab Tacoma. I think two 10” W1 subs. Hit hard and sounded good in the cab of the truck.

 

It's a fantastic subwoofer!
I have the 2X10" CM version and I love it. They are rear firing subs so sound deadening the inner & outer rear walls is highly recommended. I also added a ESP long box to relocate the jack tools there. I'm using 1000w Audison amp to power it. It hits hard but does not go super deep (think 15's deep) but plenty deep for me as they are shallow drivers given the limited space. I would definitely recommend.

 

You don't happen to have pictures handy, do you?

 

Yes. Running the stealthbox with 10's in my crewmax and the VXI1000 amp. It's incredible. I had one in my 96' Silverado before that. They are expensive but really nice enclosures.

No real pictures to take as my seats don't fold down.

 

Thank you.

Is VXi1000 a bit of on overkill? I was actually looking at it, as well as the HD750 and VXi600.

 

By going with more power, you risk less distortion at high volume.
This would be overkill https://www.down4soundshop.com/dc-audio-pitbull-20k-20000w-rms-amplifier/
20k watt amp, but super affordable for that amount of power

 

Here's what I found.

 

Just for a sub, probably. But I have it running my whole system (5 channel).

 

When it comes to subs... the most inefficient drivers... The rule of thumb is @ 20% over RMS.
Sooooo if the stealth box is rated @800watts. X 20% =160 + 800 = 960watts. So 1000 watts on a sub channel or amplifier would be ideal for the stealth box. You can never have too much power, when playing responsible. If you want to play to the potential of the speaker and be clean, clear, you never want that to be at full volume you want it around 80-90% volume. If you want clean, clear, also very nice and LOUD! Then @80-90%, you need more power to start! But remember, your truck with a 170amp alternator, has a maximum amount of watts that can be produced ~ approx 2900 watts I think.

 

That is very affordable, I don't know about the 20k being very accurate though... Science kinda says otherwise but it's definitely cool.

This is my ultimate dream amp...

https://www.audison.eu/products/thesis-hv-venti/

 

Long story long:

I have a SB-T-TUNDB3/10TW3/BK Stealthbox in my 2014 DC.
Purchased it on 2/18/2015, it took me 4 years to be happy with it..

It has 2 JL Audio 10TW3-D4 subs in it, they later started making them with JL Audio 10TW3-D8s.
SB-T-TUNDB3/10TW3/BK - Car Audio - Stealthbox® - Toyota - JL Audio



Running it off an Alpine PDX V9 amp.
Spec sheet reads the sub output is 545 RMS
Alpine PDX-V9 5-channel car amplifier — 100 watts RMS x 4 + 500 watts RMS x 1 at Crutchfield




It sounded muddy and muffled (like shit) for 4 years despite going back and forth with JL CS.
They said 500 RMS watts was plenty to power the box.
Most of the guys on the forums recommend it needed more power.
So I bought a 1000 watt JL Audio JX1000/1 and test connected it.
It didn't sound any better so I returned the amp.

Finally decided to look into it further when I had the time, 4 years later.
The box was supposed to be 2 ohms, it read 6ish when I finally measured it.
I took the subs out and found it was wired in series from the factory.





I rewired it in parallel and it has sounded great ever since..
It measures at .9 ohms now, and that small change made all the difference in the world.
It pounds clean now..

 

And a freee shirt! DON'T FORGET THE SHIRT!!!!


lol

 

I just installed mine yesterday in my '12 doublecab.. The one with the 8w7... I've got a 5 channel Kenwood amp and it's feeding it 500W... It sounds very clean and pounds super loud and deep... Zero buyer's remorse.