Just bought 2002 SR5 4.7L, need front suspension advice

Hey y'all

I just bought a 2002 Tundra SR5 4.7L access cab with 178k miles. The entire front suspension and steering seems shot. It sags, squeaks bounces, pulls on braking, leaks etc. Everything is stock. It's lived it's entire life in the deep south, so no salted roads, not too rusty.

Pretty much I just want to shotgun the whole thing, without compromising on cheap parts so my budget leaves me with DIY. I'm trying to make a list of what needs to be done, what needs to be oem, and a timeline. I've been reading a lot here, and watching a lot of youtube. I'm a noob with trucks, but can turn a wrench as an experienced motorcycle mechanic.

So far my ideas are:
-OEM rack and pinion (has inner tie rods assembled, so one less step)
-Steering fluid pump
-Moog LCAs
-OEM LBJs
-Moog UCAs
-OEM UBJs (unless aftermarket is safe?)
-OEM outer tie rod ends
-Steering links
-Shocks

It seems pretty straightforward since I'm removing so much. The inner tie rod ends come installed in the rack and pinion. I can press the ball joints into the arms off the truck, I can remove old ones as an assembly. But I also need a game plan for assembly, I don't want to get hung up. Any tricks I need to be aware of? Figure I would remove each component then go backwards?

The questions I have remaining:
-For the shocks, should I just get coilovers to save a headache? I can get used ToyTec front and rear 5100s with the red springs for $700, 20k miles on them. If not, how do I determine if I can reuse coils?
-Do UBJs and outer tie rod ends need to be OEM?
-Is OEM rack and pinion worth it? Or should I get something aftermarket with a warranty?
-Is there any other maintenance or replacements I should do while I'm in there?
-Is there an affordable UCA upgrade if I plan to replace anyway? Maybe a step above the cheapo Moog?
-Am I missing anything? Is this stupid?


Thanks! Any input appreciated!

 

Welcome to the club. I did pretty much the same thing when I rebuilt the front end on my Tundra. My cam bolts for the LCAs were completely seized so I used a Sawzall to cut through them to remove the LCAs.
You being in the south, should have a slightly easier time with it. OEM parts will last longer, aftermarket LCAs and UCAs are fine.
I used a strut/spring assembly when I swapped out mine. In retrospect I should have probably bought a little better quality strut and reused my TRD springs.

 

And yes, I removed everything and then starting inboard, with the Rack and new lines, then moving outboard to the Control Arms/Ball joints/Tie Rod ends and Sway Bar links.

 

Thanks! I wish this was an off-road 4x4. Im in new orleans so it often feels like off-roading.... why I'm considering shelling out for better shocks

 

Sounds like a good plan. I had a shop rebuild my front end. Only regret was I should have ordered Toyota CV Joints prior to the work. We ended up installing aftermarkets which are holding fine, but wish we had the OEM’s.

Maybe press in some new hub bearings whilst the spindles are off. Should be easier on a 2wd from what others say.

 

Welcome. Sounds like you have enough to stay busy for a bit. Personally, I would opt for oem LCA and new cam adjuster bolts. I usually go for oem or known reliable upgrades. My thinking is,
1) the part lasted for over 200k miles so why not get the same quality
2) if there is a problem, how much of a pain in the ass is it going to be to change again?

 

I recommend MOOG for the eccentric bolts, they are greasable with a zerk on each. OE are not.

2020-11-29_04-44-32 by Chris Evenstad, on Flickr

 

That price is way too high for used, it's basically what new ones cost.

If your going for a lift, then look at aftermarket UCA, otherwise the moogs are really good. For the steering rack, some have had god luck with the Detroit axle reman and others have had them grenade in a few months. If you can find a local dealership that does the online pricing, a brand new OEM rack is $600. OEM on the lower ball joints, aftermarket is just fine on the rest.

The upper ball joints are a royal pain without the correct press kit. I bought the total chaos tool and it made removal so much easier. I haven't put back in oem style UBJ's so no idea how hard that is.