Just purchased a 2005 SR5

Tundra enthusiasts,

I just purchased myself a 2005 SR5 Tundra 4x2 with 150,000k miles one owner. The owner maintained the truck perfectly. It’s in immaculate condition. Timing belt was done in 2015 with 90k miles. All maintenance’s records were done at Toyota dealers. The only thing I noticed is that the truck seems to be leaking oil from the oil pan, I’m assuming it’s just a gasket, but I purchased it anyways because I love these trucks and will work on it myself if needed. Valve cover gaskets also look like they might need to be replaced, but everything else is in incredible condition.

4 brand new tires as well as new brakes were added. Also…one of the most important parts…0 rust anywhere on the truck. Perks of a south Texas truck its whole life.

Here’s a few pics.

 

Nice. Looks like mine! If you haven't read this yet, do so. Especially the parts talking about the timing belt and lower ball joints.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

 

Highly doubt the oil pan is leaking. Valve covers? Absolutely. Typical. Oil pan? Almost never, unless someone had it off. And that would be very unusual.

Everything you need to know right now is in that thread linked above. Read the first couple posts a couple times. Keeping bookmarked as a reference. Holler if you need help, in public. Not via PM. And welcome to the forum. Looks like a solid truck!

 

ditto on the oil pan.

I had a five-year maintenance plan that I got with my truck from the dealership. They first told me the valve covers were leaking and then months later ended up saying Yep your oil pan is leaking too

I then took it to a Japanese Auto specialist and they did the valve cover gaskets much cheaper. That's all that was leaking. Oil pan was fine - just dripping down there from the valve cover gaskets.

That's not hard to figure out. You see oil on the block above the oil pan then continues on to the oil pan you know there's a very good chance the oil pan gaskets are ok

damn stealerships earned their nick-name for a reason

 

I stared at those pictures of the frame... way too long.
What a beauty, congrats!!

 

Appreciate everyone's comments and suggestions! Went out there this morning and double checked everything. Decided to try and see if the valve cover bolts were snug enough based on everyone's suggestions. Turns out, I could literally tighten and loosen the bolts with my fingers on the lower part of the valve cover. Decided to tighten those down, clean a little of the oil leaks, and fingers crossed that was all the issue was!

Gonna order some new spark plugs, as it seems like these might be the originals. Also checked for play for the lower ball joints on the truck, both sides seem solid, but the last time they were replaced were with about 20k miles according to the CarFax, so I think I might be doing it again here very soon

 

Don’t go crazy on those valve cover bolts. They only call for something like 7ft/lbs of torque (check the FSM, don’t take my word for it).

 

NGK or Denso on the plugs, just don't buy on scAmazon or fleaBay lest you get counterfeits like a couple other folks on here. Typical.

On the valve covers, that and a ton of other info is ready for you in the thread @ATBAV8 linked in the 2nd reply above, but everything you need to know - part numbers, process, torque specs, etc. is here in reply #18. Use OEM parts and you won't be doing this again for another 20 years - it's worth the $$. But hopefully just tightening those bolts back down solves the leak. All depends whether it's leaking at the seal, how dry the gasket was able to get, or if it's actually leaking at one of the six FIPG spots on each head (both cam tower corners, and each side of both half moon plugs).

Just don't overtighten the bolts. 53inch lb (not foot pounds) isn't a ton. The bolts are known for snapping, and also known for freezing, then snapping at removal. You may consider backing each one out, applying anti-sieze, then reinstalling.

 

I appreciate that! Yeah, from what I saw, it said something like 4.5 foot lbs of torque. So, I just mostly snugged them down, didn't over tighten for sure

 

Great advice! I might actually head to the store and get some anti-sieze to do that.

As for the plugs, I put in an order online for the OEM Denso Iridium ones that were in there. Pretty sure they're the originals, though they didn't look terrible, I definitely want to replace them just for preventative measures

 

If the rubber washers on the VC bolts are dried out or stiff consider replacing them all. You want a little squish and sealing at 53 inch-pounds.

…and I won’t even open the can of worms that is the debate to apply any anti-seize to spark plug threads.

 

If you're doing LBJ and considering anything but OEM, do yourself a favor and read this thread. https://www.tundras.com/threads/first-gen-lower-ball-joint-lbj-failures.141860/
Before I knew about how critical these were I installed cheap aftermarket non OEM. Once I saw the catastrophic failures i couldnt drive 100% at ease.
If your planning on going OEM , disregard
It would be a shame to see that nice truck damaged or totaled.
One thing I've learned here is when you go doing preventative maintenance/replacing parts sometimes you do more harm than good. I haven't always lived by "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" and have made some mistakes. Aftermarket parts quality has gone down shitter, and you even need to be careful buying "OEM" parts online because of counterfeits. The boys here can expand on that better than I, but just putting this out there.
I think RockAuto and Summit are two trusted retailers.
Again, sweet clean truck

 

Congrats on the purchase! It looks great!