Keyless Entry Issues - SOLVED!

Hello All! I recently bought a new to me 2003 AC V6 SR5, and the keyless entry will not work! I can get into the cab, and lock all doors with the buttons inside the cabin. The only issue is the keyless entry, I've replaced the battery in the remote and no luck. Additionally, the horn and cruise control do not work. I am worried there might be a larger wiring issue since the other two items don't work, but does anyone have any ideas on how to troubleshoot?

 

New owner? Start here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/

Show us a pic of your remote. Use the "Upload a File" button at the bottom of the text input box to send it.

And tell me:

• Have you looked up under the driver side of dashboard for spliced wires, extra black boxes, any signs of aftermarket alarms?
• Do you know the history on the windshield, have any evidence of leaking?
• No cruise and horn is either (A) bad clock spring or (B) dirty ground -- remember ALWAYS remove the negative battery cable for 4-5 minutes before unplugging anything SRS/airbag related!!

The factory keyless system in your truck technically has an antenna coming off the box. Sounds like you're either dealing with a failing fob that can't transmit hot enough, OR the antenna for the keyless system may've been shortened/spliced so the range sucks, if what you're saying about it working inside the truck but not outside is valid.

 

So I got up under the dash and did not see any clear signs of splicing. I located the taped up (ECM I think?) that most YouTube videos state is for programming keyless entry. But the green button above it wasn’t there.
I don’t know of any evidence of leaky windshield.
I might have misspoken. The keyless entry remote does not work at ALL. Period none. The “lock doors unlock doors” inside the cabin, on the door handle works; and locks all doors as it should.

I’m hoping it’s not a bad clock spring, or I’ll be going back to Joe Joe. I planned on running it by my fathers who has a scanner and might be able to tell me more. Im no electrician at all. We planned on doing a timing kit, water pump, thermostat, and an oil pressure sending unit (oil pressure gauge doesn’t work but no mechanical issues I’m seeing or hearing any ticking which was what dad told me to check for).

 

There are as-cheap ways to get legit OEM parts than random dudes in SoCal. But if SoCal is where you live, I doubt you can beat local.

That said, seriously. Click that link I provided above, here, I'll repost the place it takes you, follow these instructions first to see if it fixes your issue: https://www.tundratalk.net/threads/2000-06-tundra-horn-issue-resolved.107211/

Try that before you replace the clockspring. It's fixed the issue for others. Not saying it's not the clockspring, but ... see for yourself. Others have done the same here with success. But if you've had the wheel off (or others have), it's possible the clockspring got over-wound and is toast. Or it's possible someone replaced with sketchy aftermarket, and it died, as the aftermarket stuff often does.

Fob-wise. You have the RS3200 system in your truck. Does the red LED light above the double buttons light up when you press the button?

If yes, flip the remote control over, look at the FCC-ID on the remote, is it BAB237131-056?

If yes, let's try programming. You DO NOT need a dealer for this.

Now, an important note about entering programming mode. The sequence to get there can be frustrating. It takes me several attempts EVERY TIME. You really need to keep a consistent cadence, like finishing every step a second or so apart. If you get it 1st time, you're a superior human than I.

That said, here's the manual for RS3200 which works with every AC and RC truck, and some DC trucks: https://www.tundras.com/attachments/tviprs3200-pdf.490353/

Complete page 2 to enter programming mode.

Let me warn you about something: There's a limit in the number of fobs you can program, so the best thing to do after entering programming mode is delete all existing remotes. That's on page 8 of the manual.

Once you've cleared remotes, jump back to page 3 and follow the steps to add this remote, but only if the red power LED lights up when you press either button. If not, that's a problem. Buy a new remote with FCC ID BAB237131-056. If you want the official OEM part number I can get it for you but you don't need to go OEM for this specific part. And that's coming from me, I'm a fucking OEM part junkie.

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The auto parts stores also have a tester to see if your FOB is transmitting.

 

@shifty` I managed to get it into programming mode, cleared all the door fobs, and then registered my fob, the doors chimed and did the proper locks like it should have however I then attempted to use my remote and it didn't work. Think it might be the antenna? The fob still blinks red when the unlock button is pushed, has new batteries and all. I went through page 8, then page 3, then on my fob pressed the unlock and lock buttons simultaneously, then the system buzzed twice. Repeated the clearing all fobs, then programming received the lock, unlock, and chime in the right order. Went to program the fob and it kept locking and unlocking and chiming twice. Manual just says "start over" rinse and repeated a few times and no luck.

FCC ID on the fob is

$35 BAB237131-056 , 08191-00922 - 2 PACK

BAB237131-056

Which seems to be the correct one you listed. Just realized after re-reading again, the lock button has a red light, but the unlock does not. I'll be ordering a new fob.

 

Yup! I think your fob is potentially toast, but do this, b/c I notice the button looks a little caved in ... let's test the PCB, it may just be that your rubbers are off-kilter, or the microswitch on the PCB inside is flaky.

I'm going to share two different styles of RS3200 remotes here, because someone may need both and the process is similar. This will not work for '00-'02 trucks which use the RS3000 TVIPs system, and won't work for some of the DC trucks/Sequoia that have immobilizer.

For the remote keyfob WITH the LED at the top, pop open the case. Should look like this if you have emergency/alarm button on the rear.

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Once open, pop the plastic inners out. This should leave the lock/unlock button rubbers inside. slide them out also. You should have all separate like so.

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Take the PCB. Use your finger (not a screwdriver, I didn't want my fat old finger in the way) and press each button, and confirm the LED blinks up at the top of the PCB. (yes, the remote actually has three buttons, they used the same guts for Sequoia, which has a trunk, 3rd button is for that)

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If it lights up for all three buttons, the problem is NOT your remote, it's probably the button rubbers or bad assembly.

If *NO* buttons are working, but the remote was working previously, replace the battery, this style of remote takes a CR2025 battery, then test again.

If ONE OR TWO buttons won't work, I'd take a can of contact cleaner (Deoxit, CRC are my favorite brands) and spray it all up into the microswitch button, and press the button a few dozen times to see if it starts lighting up again. It may just be a dirty contact, if so using contact cleaner specifically (don't use any other cleaner) will resolve it. FYI, they sell CRC contact cleaner at Advance Auto, possibly other auto parts stores.

Now you're in here, take a sec with some rubbing alcohol to clean the buttons and plastic up. Then slide the rubbers in with the clearish part facing up, toward the LED hole on the front of the remote, like so.

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Making a note of where the LED is positioned on the circuit board, flip the PCB in its plastic housing with the LED making contact with the clearish part of the rubber. Then match up the two halves like this and put it back together.

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For the remote keyfob WITHOUT the LED at the top, pop open the case. Should look like this.

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Find the edge of the rubber around the PCB and lift the rubber liner and PCB up and out of the case.

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Take the front half of the shell, and notice the plastic inserts. These pop in and out freely. Notice one is smaller and has a tab. You need to pay attention to that point in case they fall out, you can reinstall correctly. Inspect the button plastic, clean with rubbing alcohol.

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Now pull the PCB out of the rubber liner. Clean the rubber liner inside and out with rubbing alcohol. Look for any issues, especially on/around the raised round rubber pads, because those are critical to pushing the microswitch buttons. Since the PCB has no LED light on it to let you know it's working (at least I don't think it did), carry the PCB to your truck. Press each button to test lock/unlock function. Make sure both buttons work. If not, see above for the 'contact cleaner' instructions you should follow with the non-working button. If *BOTH* buttons are not working, but the remote was working previously, replace the battery, this style of remote takes a CR2032 battery, then test again.

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For reassembly ... note how I have things laid out above. Hold the shell of the remote with both button pieces in the air, then flip the rubber insert into the case with those rubber round raised parts so they contact the two buttons as expected, like so. Flip it over, make sure the buttons are still in position as they should be, if the rubber is firmly pressed in they should hold correctly. If not, try again! You should have this:

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Next, flip the PCB into the rubber sheath and firmly press it in, make sure the buttons on the PCB are facing toward the remote rubber.

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Now put the clamshell back together again, and verify again all is OK.

Sorry, I don't have RS3000 system so can't help with that, but the megathread DOES have instructions on checking the contacts of the PCB, because they get worn out with use! Common enough problem that causes the remotes not to work.

 

EDITED TO EMBED PHOTOS
@shifty` since you've documented several remote types here, I'm going to throw mine in with some questions. First, this is for my brother's 2002 AC Limited 4x4 4.7 V8. I scanned over your master list regarding remotes and I THINK this truck has the factory RS3200 remote system because of the "Toyota Security" light on the dashboard.



This remote has just two external buttons and a red LED on the front of the case along with the Toyota logo. FCC ID:

$35 BAB237131-056 , 08191-00922 - 2 PACK

BAB237131-056.




When you crack open the case, there is a red membrane with a "Hold" bump on the back that fits into a corresponding bump in the outer case. There is no actual micro switch for the Hold bump on the PCB.



The front membrane comes off to reveal the expected LED and two micro switches.


First, I need a replacement case for the membranes and electronics. Earlier this year, I was able to find some cheap ($7) replacement cases at Advance Auto (Dorman #13663) for the 3-button remote from my dad's 03 AC. However, I can't seem to find anything that looks remotely (pun intended) like this one. This 2-button remote is physically smaller than the 3-button, so those cases won't fit. All the 2-button cases I've found do NOT have a place for the LED.

Second, the only button on this remote that seems to do anything is the one closest to the LED. If I press once, the doors unlock. A second press of the same button locks the doors and enables the Toyota Security system. For this issue, I'm guessing that I can find details in the PDF you supplied for the RS3200 systems here.

 

How far away in AL are you? I've got four spare remotes right now, and if you aren't too damn far ......

If one button is working, I wouldn't bother with replacing the shell. And if the FCC ID is

$35 BAB237131-056 , 08191-00922 - 2 PACK

BAB237131-056, then any remote with BAB237131-056 for FCC ID should work. That said, I've got at least one I could get to a local-ish person in exchange for a piece of green paper with Andrew Jackson on it.

I can't tell you on that remote shell though. That's a new one on me. But if only one button is working, again, replace the remote. Before you go there, try to enter programming mode with the instructions in the RS3200 PDF but realize you need to get the cadence just right, the steps are time/delay sensitive. It takes me a few tries to get it every damn time.

 

@shifty` I'm far enough away so that I'd spend way more on gas than your generous offer. Thanks for the advice. I'll try to pick up a couple more fobs and play around with the instruction booklet.

 

Update, this key from remotes remotes just worked on my truck : https://www.remotesremotes.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=T_BAB-056

I have keyless entry now!! Thanks @shifty`

 

Great mark this thread as solved please.

 

@bfunke

edited title to solved. New forum member here so please let me know if that’s the wrong way.

-Josh

 

I need a new one as well. 2002 SR5 RC V8
ID: BAB237131-022
I am done to one functional remote, slightly different then ones posted above.

If anyone needs early tundra rs3000 manual I can post. Im guessing its already in sticky though. Wish there was a auto window up/down function w our fobs.

 

Yeah, I don't envy you RS3000 guys. Definitely not as easy to program new fobs w/o Techstream, but yeah, instructions and manual are linked in the megathread/new owner sticky thread. There's also info linked from there about an issue that happens with the fobs which will render them useless, where the fob itself scrapes thru the circuit board, and there's a simple fix. May or may not help.

Window up/down is ultimately a function of the 'brain' (TVIP security ECU), and would need to be added in there to make it happen. It would probably require having an additional relay for each window motor to handle the task. The TVIP would need to know to listen for a specific keypress, like holding both unlock buttons for X seconds, and that's the signal it would need to bounce power to the relay, which would then open power to the up/down window circuits.

I don't know how Toyota is writing code to the TVIP ECU, and I don't know how you could port that feature in even if you knew how to rewrite to the ECU. It could be something standard/simple, I dunno, but then you'd be screwed because you couldn't figure out how to update and flash the code. I worked in embedded systems for a while, but nothing in the automotive world so all that shit is over my head.

 

The way he is describing this it sounds like the normal function of the RS3000 remote but this remote is just a different shaped version.

 

I was basing my RS3200 guess on the fact that I had the "Toyota Security" thing in the dash. Maybe I better figure out exactly which system I have.

EDIT: Just went to the garage and figured out that I have the RS3000 system. I followed the RS3000 instructions in @shifty`s megathread and the truck responded accordingly. BONUS: I figured out that the piezo chirper was unplugged, which was why it didn't sound when using the fob to unlock the vehicle. Still, this is all being done with a factory

$35 BAB237131-056 , 08191-00922 - 2 PACK

BAB237131-056 remote.

 

Well no window up n down function for me. I need to order second fob. Little luxuries I cant live without.

 

Would that by chance work on an 06 DC with no security system?

 

Would what work? The cadence/method, or remote?

 

Your extra fob?

I've programmed several, but they are those cheap ones that don't last long and don't have good range

 

If the FCCID matches, it should work w/o issue.

 

Glad I found this thread along with the info provided by Shifty et al. Not sure if anyone has experienced similar symptoms but the FCC ID is BAB237131-022...which is used from the (dreaded?) RS3000 system according to this thread.

I've had the 02 AC for about 6 months or so....have the two grey oval-shaped fobs. Symptom is that one fob works sporadically and the other does not work at all. Starting with the cheapest possible solution, I replaced the batteries. The one that worked sporadically now works less sporadically (e.g., works better but not fully dependable). The other has a part that's loose within the cartridge, tried to repair it but to no avail.

So I figure I'll just get two replacement fobs and go through the, gulp, programming procedure. But should a fob either work or not work? e.g., I am wondering if a fob that works intermittently might be pointing to a non-fob issue such as, possibly, a faulty actuator?

 

You saw the bit about how the football shaped remoted rub through the PCB, right? It's in the megathread sticky.

 

Ahh, missed that reference when I was reading your megathread, thank you.

I see what might be a slight breach in the circuit board cover...to be sure, I followed the poster's solution by applying a couple of strips of electrical tape. Tried the remote again and did not notice a discernable difference....many button pushes had no effect. I tried pushing the button harder which seemed to have more success. Thinking that the fob is losing its function. I am ok with that if it means that there is no issue with other components of the keyless entry system.

By the way, I am not clear on what the second (non-bumpy) button is for on the fob.

 

That’s for use with a second vehicle. Check out this reference from the megathread. (Specifically, the tviprs3000.pdf file, which is the RS3000 user guide.)
https://www.tundras.com/threads/need-help-disabling-automatic-door-locks.33158/#post-1931311

 

My next step would be cleaning all contacts on the board, on both sides, using contact cleaner.

Full disclosure: I know very little about your RS3000 remotes, much less what the button side of the PCB looks like, but I notice substantial rub-through on this contact I'm showing below. I'm wondering: Is it that trace completely rubbed through? Or is it actual rust/corrosion on the contact? If that's where the remote is getting power from the wafer battery mounted (I assume) inside the back cover of the case, is it possible you're not getting voltage constantly, and that's why it's not transmitting constantly? Maybe put a piece of conductive metal flashing tape over that spot (but not touching anything else) and try again? Or maybe you can reposition the contacts on the back cover so it contacts a different part of that silver strip and test? Or copper tape, would probably work.

CRC makes a great contact cleaner which is electronics-safe. If what I just suggested doesn't work, I'd be popping out the PCB, pulling the rubber piece off, and dousing the buttons and rest of the board in contact cleaner, and brushing it around with a toothbrush. If the buttons are microswitches like you see in the 2nd picture below, douse them in contact cleaner and punch the buttons a couple dozen times each. Wipe the remote dry, let it sit for 5-10 minutes, reassemble and test. When the contacts inside get dust/residual buildup, they stop working consistently, similar to how Nintendo Switch controllers acquire drift. Hence the "contact cleaner", that's the purpose, clean all contact points internally to restore operations.

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