LED headlamp retrofit? Vs HID?

Sorry if repeat, need a specific question answered. I plan to try to install 3” LED projectors. I have seen a lot of info about/and write ups on how to do the HID retrofit. My question- I see you have to get the projector, wiring harness and a ballist. What is all needed to do the LED retrofit besides the headlamp assemblies (already ordered) and the actual LED projector? Do I have to order H4 connectors/wiring harness to power? Do I have to add a driver or resistor to work correctly? Or, is LED interchangeable with HID? LED seems to last longer than HID. Second question besides the standard Miomoto HID any other recommended HID or LED projectors? Do not want to do the mini projector, will do full 3” projector. Just trying not to spend an additional $200 to $270 for the Taq custom or The Retrofit Source kit. But if it’s necessary to do it right I will just have to pony up.

 

No ballasts for LED, but HID still rules for maximum output. I have an LED retrofit and love the output. There’s just less to deal with than HID. If something goes wrong, you’ll replace the whole LED projector, instead of the bulb or ballast for HID.

 

Thank you. So for LED, is it just plug n play as long as you have the H4 connectors? Do you have to add anything else - driver or resistor? What LED projector did you go with and how has it held up?

 

ive wanted to switch my dim/yellow halogen bulbs out for LED's except im afraid the popo will get me since its illegal...

 

The driver and everything is included with the projector. The harness you can build to fit your OEM wiring.
I used these 2.5”. The 3” ones were enormous in the headlamp, but they will fit. The 3” ones I originally ordered had the driver installed directly on the projector, and they were too front-heavy that I didn’t trust them to bounce around inside the headlamp while offroad.

$80 2.5" Bi LED Projector Lens Headlight Retrofit Kit with High Low Beam-6000K White 92W/pair 20000LM Focus Beam DOT Approved Clear Cut off Line No Blind Oncoming Car Upgrade Bi-Xenon Projector Lens

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09WY6QT7F

 

Awesome, good ratings. How did you build your harness?

 

I ran mine through the Morimoto relay, and then to my headlight harness. I suppose you can just connect them straight to the headlight plugs themselves, but I was wired for HID already, so I reused that route.

 

I think both my headlight LED bulbs (from VLEDs) and definitely my Diode Dynamics fog lights are DOT-approved. How are LED swaps illegal?

Edit: The V50's from VLED aren't themselves DOT-certified, but I don't see why they would be illegal as the housing is DOT legal. The pattern is perfect and a fantastic upgrade from the stock halogen bulbs. The DD fog lights I can't speak highly enough of them, too(Pro, white, fog pattern)

 

People will mention Tundra's suffer from a poor reflector and retrofitting LEDs is to the detriment of oncoming traffic.
I'm going on 7 years with nobody brighting me on the highway in a 2.5 gen and have considerably better lighting. I recently switched to VLEDs Monochrome and they're the best bulbs i've had to date.

 

The VLEDs are made to mimic the halogen pattern, and they do pretty well at it without blinding oncoming traffic. You may push the leveler down a notch or two but so far so good.

 

agreed. adjusting the headlights down seems to benefit the brights as well.

 

Did the swap, lights look great. When I click the high beams they both turn off. I hear the shutter or actuator clicking but both lights turn off and the cooling fan (for the projector) turns off. I have seen other issues where the high beams had issues and needing to add a resistor? Any ideas?

 

Which lights did you end up using? I used the VLEDs and they were simple drop-in swaps for the stock bulbs.

 

If they turn off when you activate the high beam, something is connected incorrectly. The high beam just flips the sheild. The same projector stays lit, nothing gets brighter, it just allows the whole beam from the projector come through.

 

Think I found the problem, having challenges getting a solution. There are four wires for the light and three for the h4 connector. From the drivers seat on the left pin 1 is ground, on 2 (middle top) is 12v low beams, and pin 3 right side is 12v high beam. The issue is when the solenoid is operated for the high beam it turns on power to on 3 but turns off power to pin 2. With the high beams only pin 3 is 12v. But if I tap into power for the positive for the driver and the positive for the HB into pin 3, the. The HB will always be on. I need to find a way to power the driver and the (+) for the HB on the LED projector once the HB switch and relay is activated on the truck, without keeping the HB on at all times giving constant power to the actuator and the projector.

 

Think I found the problem, having challenges getting a solution. There are four wires for the light and three for the h4 connector. From the drivers seat on the left pin 1 is ground, on 2 (middle top) is 12v low beams, and pin 3 right side is 12v high beam. The issue is when the solenoid is operated for the high beam it turns on power to on 3 but turns off power to pin 2. With the high beams only pin 3 is 12v. But if I tap into power for

 

I think the issue is once they HB is activate from the switch, the relay switches power on the H4 connector to only apply 12 v to the HB bulb (stock) and turns off power to the LB bulb. However, with the LED I need to continue to have 12 v to the LB to keep the light on once the shield is activated via the HB 12v. But if I tap power into the positive for the driver and the HB (+) the HB will always be on. Need to find a way to 12v supplied to the (+) of the driver once the HB switch is on, but make sure the HB is not always powered when wanting LB.

 

I guess since I plan to run additional lights and a light control box kit, I can just add a button for the HB and use it that way. It will come with fuses and relay circuits to add lights.

 

Ok, there has to be a harness or relay a available to combat that. Or you can just wire the highbeam from the truck to both the lowbeam and highbeam of the projector. The lowbeam would act as normal, and when the HB was activated , it would power the projector as it should. You would have to make your own harness, but that sounds pretty simple.

 

I just don’t see how to do it, without constantly powering the HB side? Unless I add a relay. Anything that would connect to the positive side of the driver would also power the positive side of the HB. Not too worried about it, as it is a drastic improvement, was hoping there was a simple fix. If you figure it out, feel free to post a drawing of a schematic to wire it. I am at a loss as of right now.

 

Yep, you’re right there would have to be a relay to interrupt that loop so the HB wouldn’t always be activated. But if you’re ok with that separate switch, that’s the way to go. I rarely use my high beams, and I live in the desert with many mountain roads. The headlights work so well that I just forget about the HBs.

 

Fixed: I guess they are wired in series? I saw a YT video of a guy making harnesses for the connectors and he used diodes. Wired in a diode on the drivers side, now both high beams work with the switch. These headlights are a game changer, just hope they last! They look incredible. Adjusted good, don’t seem to be blinding everyone.

 

Awesome! I forgot that I use a Morimoto relay to take care of all that. It hooks up to the OEM harness and powers the lows and highs. Enjoy your retrofits! I redo mine about every two years.