Lift Kit Leveling Kit 2018 Tundra CrewMax TRD

hey guys I have narrowed it down to 2 options both from Toltec. I am just looking for just a little lift to make the truck look a little more beefy looking

I can go with 5100’s all around with a 1” block in the rear. They said it would lift the truck 2.25 front and rear so obviously there is no rake unless you put 1” block in rear so the rear sits 1” higher than front.

Option 2 was a leveling kit 3/1 using my stock shocks. Here I would get about another .5 lift over the 5100’s

I was told both will give you about same lift but going with new shocks will make the truck ride much better than the leveling kit. Replacing the shocks would cost another $150 more than the level kit

For $150 more I am leaning towards just doing the new shocks.

Why would someone go with level kit rather than just doing the 5100’s besides the $150 difference?


Also seems like some have issue with TSS faults and some don’t. Would it be a good idea to go to dealer and ask if there is an update to the TSS software before I go with lift? Not even sure they would do an update if I am not having issues now and afraid if I do lift and have issue they won’t do it because of lift

Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance for you thoughts and advice

 

@Toytec Lifts

 

That is who I am going to go with once I figure out if it will be there lift kit (New 5100’s) or level shim kit

 

@Toytec Lifts will respond and give you the answer you are looking for.

 

Hey Bud4ya, I went with the 5100's up front on my 19 crewmax and put it on the top notch with 285/65/20 and there is plenty of clearance with absolutely no trimming or rubbing at all. I was shocked to say the least. The ride is definitely better than I expected. It is a little more stiffer than stock but in a good way. In hindsight, I could've probably went on the middle setting with no issues but I didn't want to take any chances. I do think I am going to add a 1" block in the back or at least the Coachbuilder +1 to give a little more rake. You won't be disappointed with the 5100's

 

Thank you. That was my plan was to go top setting and then do the block in back to maintain some rack. I will look at the Coachbuilder +1 you spoke about for the rear instead of the toytec block

Next I will go with 33’s. Just have to find out what size 18” I can go with with having no rubbing issues

Now when I do the shocks at highest setting and block in rear do I need to get an alignment?

Or is the alignment needed when you change out the tires?

 

Both are going to do the same difference (if that makes sense). Both are going to preload the spring down which will yield the desired lift you are wanting.
My opinion I would run the spacer kit as your truck is new and when you feel like the time is right upgrade the whole suspension system.


Regardless of the choice you make, you know we have you taken care of!

Have a killer weekend guys!



-David

 

Personally, I would get the alignment done. I have heard anytime you mess with the suspension (replacement shocks, or coil over replacements), it's best practice to make sure everything is good on the alignment side. Good luck and let us see some pics

 

I just put on the 6112's on the 1.3" setting with 5100's in the rear. I'm glad I researched my setup. love the ride!

 

What size tire you running?

 

My CM has Bilstein 6112 set at 1.9" w/coachbuilder shim on driver side. Netted 2.5" total. Stock in rear. Has 1/2" rake measured front to back. May add +1 CB shackles to get rear up another .625"

 

bgdv1, you got a pic of your set up? I just added the Bilsteins to mine and have the 285/65/20 on factory rims but to be honest, I am not crazy about how skinny they look so this week I am getting the Methods NV in bronze but I am on the fence with what size tire to go with. Thanks

 

On the rack now getting its Method wheels and 275 70 18 Cooper AT3 XLT's.

 

I'm running 285/60-20 Falken at3.

 

Thank you guys. Very good info I am going to reach back out to Toytec. Just confused on why people are using spacer kits or shims. Why would someone only go 1.5 and then put spacers or shims in to make it 2.5 when the shock already has capability of going 2.5

Then I am seeing do not set the 5100 at max setting unless you use diff or bump stop

I just want to lift the truck about 2-3 front and 1 in rear and not get weird tire wear, handling issue or undo stress on other components.

 

The coachbuilder shim is on 1 side used to level out the negative lean. My installer said he very rarely see a difference in lean and stock my truck was dead nuts even side to side. So he installed the new 6112 set up and it was a 1/2" off side to side so he put the coachbuilder shim in I had pre purchased just in case (glad I did)

 

Thank you very much. So I would go highest setting at 2.25 and sounds like get shims just in case on side is not level. I guess I should also get the diff drop/bump stop think they are the same thing. I was reading if you set at highest very good idea to instal those

Why did you choose the 6112’s over the 5100’s. From what I could see the 6112 is just a thicker better made shock

 

I have 5100's on my 4Runner and to me the Tundra being much larger and way heavier the 6112's seemed logical.

 

5100 is just a stock replacement that gives you lift. 6112 is an upgrade in every way. Larger valve body. Better conpression and dampening. Comes with a New spring designed in conjunction with the valving of the shock. 6112s ride like butter on and off road. Plus giving you the lift.

 

Someone mentioned early the leveling kit is going to provide the same outcome as if I put 5100’s all around. It was mentioned both options put added pressure or preload on stock springs. I would set highest setting and 1” block
Rear

So if I am going to get about the same lift hight why do people go with 5100 set up rather than leveling kit?

Do the 5100 set up just make the truck ride smoother than the leveling kit?

Sorry for all the questions I just want to make sure I make the right decision

 

If you never intend on going off-road, the spacer kit will do you find. Albeit you will sacrifice ride quality due to the increased pre load on the stock shocks.

The 5100s are designed to give you lift using the shock so you maintain ride quality while decreasing the preload which puts added strain on your suspension components. Spend the extra hundred dollars and go with the 5100s regardless. Damn near every person who gets spacers winds up replacing with a proper setup like 5100s, 6112s, or any other quality coilover setup snd they wonder why they ever wasted time and money on a spacer lift.

 

Thank you very much

 

I hope this is not a dumb question. So stock the rear sits 2” higher than the front. So if I went with 5100’s on just the front and set it at 2” the truck would now be level

Now if I added them to the rear as well as the front and set at the same 2” in the rear would the rear still maintain the 2” taller in rear?

I guess if it is the rear shocks that make it 2” taller by removing those and going 5100 all around that would even it. But if it is something else that raises the rear 2” then if I did 5100 all around it would raise the truck 2” and keep the back rake of 2”

If I do 5100 all around and they make the truck completely level now I can see where I would need the 1” block

I decided I will go 5100 all around instead of the leveling kit. Both seem to do the same but shock option would allow the truck to ride smoother

Then if I do the 5100 and that now makes truck level with no rake I need the block. Also need to get shims just in case for front in case both sides don’t come out level

The other question is do I need a bump stop/ diff drop if I set all 4 5100’s at highest setting . Or anything to worry about with setting them at the max?

When I was reading these are used when setting the 5100’s at the highest level. It was saying something about stabilizing it at the highest setting which concerned me. Don’t want to worry if I set it at 2.5 something is going to break

I just want to make sure I have everything covered when I order

Thank you

 

I would like to point out that the shim that everyone talks about for the lean is due to the added weight from the gas tank. The Tundras stock springs and even the TRD Pro Suspension are preloaded to account for this 1/2" lean. When you get aftermarket suspension this lean isnt accounted for, hence the need for the shim with all aftermarket suspension systems. (I didnt know/understand this until i started visiting Tundras)

 

5100s are different front and rear. Only the fronts provide lift. Rears are a replacement good for up to 1” of rear lift.

Shocks don’t provide lift. Rear lift comes from new lift shackles, blocks, or new leaf springs.

2” will level you.

 

Toytec has adjustable shackles you might want to consider.

 

Thank you guys everything I needed

 

https://www.bilsteinlifts.com/shop/...qtkO5szzFxQfBvkMz3uBv7ohKFAhxrbxoCSFIQAvD_BwE

I’d get a shackle tho in the rear no block.