Moog products for new front end

As title suggest I am thinking of using some MOOG products on new front end. If possible I'd like to save a few bucks from buying OEM lower ball joints, lower control arms and sway bar end links. I know most of you suggest OEM but wondering if anyone has first hand failure stories with MOOG. The shop I am having install lift recommended some Moog items. They generally are working on Tacoma and 4 runner and newer tundras though. (don't necessarily need new lower control arms but at least a new lower ball joint. They said for price of labor it's darn near same cost of brand new LCA.). It will be with a 2.5 lift. New UCA. Just trying to make it as bombproof as possible and also so new parts wear together. Thoughts or suggestions appreciated. Thanks fellas.

 

OEM only on Balljoints. Might as well go OEM on the LCA’s. Sucks, but might as well do it right AND do it all at one time instead of piece mealing. SPC Cams bolts for the new LCA’s. The end links you can do aftermarket.

I had my front end entirely rebuilt and used all OEM except for the El Cheapo CV Axles. A regret. They are ok, but shoulda spent the extra $500 for brand new OEM.

You’ll be stoked with all the new parts. She’ll drive so much better. Get the high dolla alignment from a 4wd place.

 

I put moog sway bar end links on. I would go a different route next time. Some other options have a hex key insert that allows for easier tightening, rather than the moog option of tightening the lower bolt with a socket while you grip the other side of the link with a needle nose lock jaw pliers. I am novice, so maybe I am missing something there, but again, that hex key insert would save some frustration imho.

 

What do shops typically charge to press new lower ball joints in? It looks like from diagrams online that if I bought new LCA I would still have to have lower ball joints pressed in. Toyota parts place I contacted has not gotback to me. Also what would be a good price to pay for these items... I'll check for deals now.
Edit. Also are new sway bar end links necessary, do they need to be longer and or doing just add new bushings.

 

Not sure on pricing as it varies wherever you live. Just stick with OEM LCA and BallJoints regardless. You’ll be happy in the end.

 

@fighthedude everybody here will say go Toyota on lower ball joints, but to your point there haven't been many failure stories with Moog lower ball joints in particular. We are all trained to fear aftermarket ball joints.

I wouldn't be afraid of using Moog lower arms, Moog tie rod ends, Moog upper ball joints (unless you can get SPC upper arms instead). I still would run Toyota lower ball joints because having the fear of my truck hitting the ground is not worth the +/-$150 you'll save buying Moog.

Lower ball joints aren't pressed in, they have 4 bolts to attach to the spindle (I suggest not reusing those) and the main bolt goes through the lower arm and self seats when the nut is tightened.

Upper ball joints are pressed into the spindle and self seat into the upper arm.

When I first lifted the front of my truck I used stock sway bar end links. You should be okay with them if 2.5" or less is your lift goal.

 

I had some Mevotech tie rod ends for about 2 months on my truck, which is the service life of them apparently. Replaced them with Moog, still going strong a year later. 1 vote Moog for those. Ball joints beware, I've had some aftermarket ones on my uppers and I regretted them. The grease zerk wouldn't accept grease, so they were under-lubed and started squeaking. Can't go wrong with OEM. There's some discount OEM parts avenues to save a few bucks. All OEM will save you in the long run. Most of us are replacing the OEM stuff after 150k, 200k, or 250k miles. That's some serious service life!

 

Copy. Ya it looked like OEM ball joints are attached via bolts. That is one reason I was so confused. I think I'll just buy new OEM lower ball joints and have those replaced. I don't think I need new LCA but was gonna just do it if labor worked out to be nearly the same. Am I missing something when it comes to a big labor cost?

 

Labor from a shop for lower ball joints will depend what their hourly rate is and how they write the job. Realistically on a lift its less than 30 minutes per side and mechanics tend to ballpark $120/hour. Some mechanics will write up each joint is a separate job and call 1 hour minimum rate, so you may end up around $200-240 labor only.

Add room for getting alignment done after.

 

I have sold thousands of Moog suspension components. They almost never fail but they are backed by a lifetime warranty if they ever do. I wouldn't justify the extra cost for OE for ball joints or even bushings. Save your money for other upgrades!

With that said, there are certain things worth going OE for. Oil filters, fluids, electrical components, even spark plugs. Ball joints are old technology that has been around a long time. Moog does it quite well in my experience.

 

I get your confusion, coming from a 3gen 4r it was going moog or OEM but for our trucks, everyone says OEM only.
So that is the route I went, I went moog lower control arms but OEM ball joints.

You can see here: https://www.tundras.com/threads/stage-1-complete.69933/

 

I had moog LBJ’s on my 2002 and the driver side would clunk. I did not put but 3000 miles on them and swapped them out for oem and the clunk is gone. Believe the hype about oem LBJ’s on these trucks. I don’t like moogs black finish on their parts either. I’m in Texas and threaded part of the inner ties have surface rust on them. Do not believe the moog hype. Proforge, AC delco (pro series) and TRW are good from my experience.

 

So far so good!

 

Was it @Darkness that has Moog LCA’s and they look like they each were manufactured differently? Not sure.

 

It was me but those were Beck Arnley. To be fair they're working but that screams of inconsistent quality to me.

I think Moog may be a cut above most of those web order part brands.

If it helps, I ran Raybestos ball joints and tie rod ends for years, they were rebranded Sankei 555 which are good parts.

 

Nothing against black finish, I just prefer the non rusting kind

 

Found oem lower ball joints online through toyota. Roughly $120 plus shipping. Seem appropriate? @Roman or should i order through you. If it helps put some jingle in your pocket ill go through you.

 

Check with your local Stealer to see if they are participating in the new Toy Parts Programme. Pay online and pick up to save on shipping, as well.

 

Took off both front tires Pleasantly surprised. Nothing seems to be torn or weathered too bad. I think I will get oem lower ball joints. Moog sway bar end links and bushing for lower control arms.. not even sure those are needed. You fellas see anything I can't see...

 

I would replace those outer tie rods while you're at it.

 

Boots on the tie rods look a little flat but if they aren't ripped they might be fine. Overall I don't see any trouble aside from the swaybar bushings. They aren't disintegrated to the point of making noise so maybe leave them until you want to tear into that front end.

Jack the truck up, get front wheels in the air, grab the tire and wiggle it. Hands at 12 and 6 o'clock, wiggle. Hands at 3 and 9 o'clock, wiggle. Grab the wheel and pull it in and out as if you're trying to remove it but forgot to take the lugs off. If there is no play you're fine.

 

Bolt for moog outer tre was too soft and stripped out for me. In my experience inner outer and LBJ mood components did not last nearly as long as OEM. They are my trail spares now....

 

Thanks fellas

 

+1 for proforged.

I went all proforged for my front end rebuild. I like the parts in hand. The feel nice and sturdy. Only time will tell how long they last... or if they’ll honor their lifetime warranty if they do fail.

 

No noticeable play.

 

I put Moogs on a F150. They outlasted the OEMs but then again it waa a Ford.

 

It definitely helps me if you order through me. Helping me means I can stay on the forum and answer all parts questions for everyone. So, I guess what I'm saying is help me help you.

Not sure what year you have, but if you need help looking them up, let me know.

 

What's best way to reach you so we don't tie up forum?