Need advice on 2016 Toyota Tundra 1794 Crewmax audio setup

I recently bought a 2016 Toyota Tundra 1794 edition crewmax, which included a stock JBL audio setup with an amplifier under the passenger seat and an 8-inch subwoofer behind the rear driver side seat. I want to replace the door speakers, remove the stock subwoofer, and add two 10-inch subs behind the rear seats. I'm confused about the best way to go about it to ensure everything is compatible and adequately powered. The last sound setup I had I did myself in a 2002 Toyota 4 Runner, and it ran great, but this is a whole different level. I'm unsure whether or not I'll need 2 amps, one for the subs and one for the door speakers, or if I can get away with a 5 channel amp. I also don't know the RMS output of the stock radio/receiver and if it could adequately power the 4 aftermarket door speakers. I'm trying to spend as little as possible as I've personally found that spending the extra money isn't worth it. I put 2 cheap Hifonics 12" subs in my 4Runner in a cheap sealed box, with a cheap 1000 W Hifonics amp, and it sounded incredible for 10 years with no problem. Can anyone possibly make me a compatible build with everything included? In summary, I need 2 subs, 1 box, 4 door speakers, whatever amps are necessary to power the speakers and subs, and all wiring.

 

This sounds like another job for James @tech12volt. He is the go to guy for fully compatible plug & play audio packages to replace your JBL system. Do yourself a favor and check him out. You won't be disappointed.

 

The only problem I have with most plug-and-play setups is that they're generally insanely overpriced and underperform a cheaper DIY setup. Is that the case with @tech12volt ? I've looked at sites like ********* and OEMaudio and said aloud, "yea fucking right" when I saw the prices they were charging not even including installation costs lol.

 

Www.tech12volt.com

 

Doesn't hurt to check it out. I got a complete Phoenix Gold package ($1200):

1 Pair of RX65CS 6.5 Components with mounting brackets and harnesses for the front doors.

1 Pair of RX65CS 6.5 Components with mounting brackets and harnesses for the rear doors.

2 RX2 10 inch subwoofers singe 4 ohms (includes custom box built specifically for your truck)

1 Rx 2 750.5 5 channel amplifier

1 Scosche 4 gauge copper amp wiring kit

1 amp rack

 

Yea, I went and checked it out. Those prices are retarded lol.

 

Yea, that's insanely overpriced. That doesn't even include installation fees. You could get a better setup with a much higher output amp for about half that price.

 

Retarded low or retarded High? I found $1200 for a complete package to be extremely low. One might even say retarded. Haha.

 

Then I suppose you should do that.
If you already know everything, and apparently you do, why are you asking for info?

If you can get all this, for $600, you're buying shit equipment.

1 Pair of RX65CS 6.5 Components with mounting brackets and harnesses for the front doors.
1 Pair of RX65CS 6.5 Components with mounting brackets and harnesses for the rear doors.
2 RX2 10 inch subwoofers singe 4 ohms (includes custom box built specifically for your truck)
1 Rx 2 750.5 5 channel amplifier
1 Scosche 4 gauge copper amp wiring kit

As well you're not going to get a decent system unless you replace the HU.
The Entune HUs, especially the JBL, sucks balls..


Welcome to the forum..

 

Not sure what Audio Shops you've been to that will install a full system in your truck including install for $600. Good luck!

 

$600 for 4-door speakers, subs, and amp, he's probably shopping at Walmart..

 

I just priced it out on tech12volts website. He's basically charging a $200 premium to make you a list of components (cost of components + $200). I don't know everything but I know paying an extra $200 makes no sense if I can just build a component list myself, but that's the problem I'm having. I'm struggling with component compatibility.

@Drixles1794 I wasn't including the cost of installation in that $600 figure, just the cost of the equipment.

@1lowlife To be honest, I think most of the perceived difference in audio quality between cheap and expensive equipment is placebo induced mental masturbation by hobbyists. Sure, there are probably some slight differences for an audiophile, but I don't really notice a difference between expensive car audio setups and cheaper ones, and I don't think 99% of the population would either. There's definitely a point of diminishing returns. In fact, the best setup I ever heard was my old one in my 2002 toyota 4 runner with this amp (https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-34507-Hifonics-HFi1000.1D.html), 2 of these subs (https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-191535-Hifonics-HFX12D4BK.html), and a cheap sealed box (~$300 total). I ran that set up HARD for 10 years and never had a single problem and it slammed so hard while still sounding phenomenal. Prior to that, I had 2 kicker L5s adequately powered that sounded worse for some reason. I probably listened to 8 more setups of friends that had much more expensive equipment than mine and every one of them sounded either equivalent or worse (yes, they were powered adequately and set up properly). With that in mind, I can't justify spending a whole lot passed "lower end shit" equipment because I haven't seen it be worth it.

 

Everything in your post is "lower end shit" equipment.
If that works for you more power to ya.

I'm no audiophile, I just wanted a system that sounded good to me, much like you do.
I'd dare guess my setup with Kenwood HU, Focal speakers, Apline PDXV9 amp, and JL Audio SB-T-TUNDB3/10TW3 with two 10TW3-D8 Subwoofers, and a shit load of sound deadening, sounds better than your low-end stuff.
Perhaps not to you, and that is fine.

I get what you want.
In my 1997 4Runner, I ran stock everything and added a sub amp and cheap sub box.
It met my needs at the time for 9 years.

In my 2005 Tundra, I ran a Pioneer SuperTuner HU, stock speakers with old-school Fosgate amps (bought those new in the mid-1980s), and a homemade custom sub box with a 10" Punch.
Ran it for 10 years, fit my needs just fine.




But for my 2014 I wanted something a little nicer, so any product I would recommend to you, you wouldn't spend the money on.

But I can offer this to you.
Go for the 5-channel instead of 2 amps.
The 525 RMS of my Alpine is plenty to run my 2 10" subs.
Use this to bypass the underseat amp, 2014 to 2017 TOYOTA TUNDRA JBL WIRING HARNESS (tech12volts.com)
James uses it with his DSR packages.

The one I used doesn't work for JBL. AutoHarnessHouse
Actually, I made mine, it was before these were offered..



You already have JBL door tweeters, so buy a decent component system and put them in your front doors.
I had to add JBL door sails to my non-JBL system.



With a decent set of door speakers, you can omit the 3 dash speakers.
I added JBL door sails for my non-JBL, and it gave me a great front stage without the dash speakers.
The dash speakers, running off the HU, muddied everything up as well threw off the time alignment with the amp-powered speakers.
I just disconnected all 3 dash speakers.

I don't know about the JBL, but on the non-JBL, the Entune HU only sends mids and lows to the under-seat amp for the front doors and uses the dash speakers as tweeters.

It is really advised to replace your Entune HU with a decent aftermarket HU.
Some guys have even used BOSS HUs with good results.
With the iDatalink Maestro, you'll retain most if not all steering wheel controls.

If you keep the Entune, I'd highly recommend a digital processor of some kind to sum up the outputs of the Entune HU.
Even an Audio Control LC7I could do that for you.
LC7i - AudioControl

I tried an LC6i I and then learned the stock Entune is crap.



I even tried a JBL MS-8 with the Entune and is was still a disappointment.
Even added an extra amp to run the center channel and the Entune sucked.



There are so many threads on so many builds on this forum, just search around and learn all you can.

Everything you need to do, as far as amps, can fit under the passenger seat.
All the front/rear, input and door output, remote turn on for your amp, everything is in that underseat wiring.
You just have to run an amp power line to the battery.



I used 0 ga in case I ever wanted to expand, but I don't see that happening.



Good luck..
Again, welcome to the forum..

 

I definitely think there's some noticeable difference in the speaker or tweeter quality at different price ranges. I was just talking about subwoofers. I haven't really noticed a huge difference in subwoofer or monoblock amp difference between price ranges. I'll likely fork out some more money for some higher-quality speakers. Any speakers you recommend that are good bang for buck?

So the thing that makes me reluctant to get a 5 channel amp for subs and speakers is that the subs I want are 800 RMS total (400 RMS x 2), and I can't find a 5 channel amp that has that kind of output for the subwoofer channel. Is it possible to pull any extra power that isn't needed for the 4 door speaker amp channels and allocate it to the subwoofer channel?

How does bypassing the stock amp work? Should I just take the stock amp out to save space?

What decent component system would you recommend that has good bang for buck?

Nice setups by the way and great advice.

Edit: I went and looked through @BrakeDust full audio overhaul and my goodness, that's an insane amount of work and complexity. Now I'm debating how much I'd be willing to pay someone to do a professional install.

 

Not sure how much help I can be, the JBL is wired a lot different the non-JBL I have.
As well, the rear doors in my double cab don't have tweeters.

Non-JBL the dash speakers run off the HU, in the JBL all speakers run off the under seat amp, see below.

Keep in mind that stock amp was designed for 6 and 2 ohm speakers that have very small magnets on them.
Toyota wanted more volume, with less wattage.
As well that Entune, especially the JBL, has a huge bass roll-off as you increase the volume.

My side dash, 6 ohm.



6x9 'woofer' in the doors are 2 ohm.
Look at that massive magnet..





Honestly, if I had it to do over again, I wouldn't have put speakers in the back doors.
No one rides back there and the Focal PS 165 FXE front components fill the truck perfectly.
But these speakers alone run $700, I paid $550 in 2015.
Focal PS 165 FXE Performance Series 6-1/2" bi-amplified component speaker system at Crutchfield

I spent well over $3K on my audio including sound deadening and did it all myself.
So I can't help you with product selection.



There are hundreds of threads and posts on audio builds on the forum.
You'd just have to search and look thru them.

The amp bypass harnesses keep you from having to cut stock wiring.
I can put all my stock audio back in my truck if I sell or trade it, it is all plug and play.
Probably take me a couple of hours, but I'd want to back to stock if I got rid of it, unless a private buyer makes it worth leaving it in..

It was easier for me, to get an aftermarket HU, idatalink Maestro for the steering wheel controls, run RCA cables through the console to the new amp, and be done with the Entune HU.
Especially since I didn't use the dash speakers..
I hooked up an external XM tuner, but I don't use it, I run XM thru Bluetooth from the phone app.

Here are some schematics that might help you in figuring out what you want to do.
This is from the 2015 manual so everything should be the same as your 2016.
These are the wiring diagrams from/to the under seat amp.
All audio inputs, speaker outputs, right/left, front/rear, center dash, subwoofer, remote on, etc..


Hope that helps you..