Need advice on alternator rebuild!

Hey everybody!

Have been combing through this site since I got my new-to-me Tundra last December, feels good to be part of the club & I love my truck

I know about the LBJ's thanks to ya'll & was getting stuff ordered along with the recall kit to replace those when I ran into another problem.

I've been driving on a weak battery the past few weeks like a dummy until finally I was getting some low voltage & went got a brand new True Start.

Well, my voltage guage kept dipping low & now I'm having problems wirh my alternator.

Autozone test said bad voltage regulator.

After some research trying to decide how much money to cough up for a new Alternator, found that driving on a weak battery can wear the regulator out.

So now I'm considering just trying to replace that.

However, I'm having trouble figuring out exactly which regulator I need? & if I'm going that route should I just get a whole rebuild kit while I'm in there?
Where would I order that from or can I get a quality kit/regulator from a local store?

Didn't see an alternator replacement in the service history on Toyota & I'm close to 200k. Assuming it has original.

Sorry for my ignorance but if you guys could help me make a decision I'd really appreciate it!

 

I'd just replace the alternator with an AutoZone alternator. I'm on 4 years for my AutoZone alternator.

I paid the core charge and rebuilt my original to have as a spare.

If it bothers you not having OEM, then drop the $400 for an original equipment version.

FYI. Toyota didn't build the original, so OEM means nothing to me.

Edit: replacing the alternator on our Tundras is an all day job. The thing is hidden behind the power steering pump. The job sucks. Keep a big window of time free.

To make the job easier, just remove the radiator, fan and radiator shroud and obviously the serpentine belt. It will give you much more room to work instead of doing everything by feel.

 

Edit:

I just noticed you have a 1st gen.

Toyota got it right by making the alternator accessable.

Disregard my previous post. Sorry about the confusion.

 

Haha all good thanks for replying!

& yeah I found a good video on YouTube I'm going to follow.
For sure looks doable but def looks like a PITA too. Hoping for only a 2-3 hour job!

& I was trying to keep my repairs OEM but the alt too expensive & I see so many mixed opinions on aftermarket alts that makes me nervous.. but you do have me back on the fence now so thanks lol

 

Rock Auto Denso Remanufactured 100Amp - upgrade
More Information for DENSO 2101178 (rockauto.com)
80Amp is $103 at RA. Don't forget to use discount code for 5% off.
Rebuild kits for Denso alternators come with regulator, brushes and bearing and go for 40-50 bucks.
DO NOT buy Toyota parts at Scamazon or EvilBay - read Shifty's megathread about this.

 

Appreciate the reply & info!

I take it the 100amp upgrade is the same size physically as the 80amp??

I'm not trying to completely take the PS pump out to get the alt out, rather just loosen it enough to squeeze out the alt ike was done in the YT video lol

 

Same size. There are some even higher amp versions for more $$$.

 

What Brad said, except I would go with the 130A which is what your truck would have from the factory if it had tow package. There is no reason not to put in the 130A, you shouldn’t have had a 80A or 90A in your truck.

DO NOT use non-OEM brands for electronics on the 1st gen’s. Buy Denso; they’re the ones who made the original. It’s the one major place I disagree with the koditton above. Aftermarket auto parts have gone down the shitter in the last couple decades, with everything outsourced to mainland China and India for rebuilds. You’re lucky to get 2-5 years due to poor QA/QC, the “lifetime guarantee” they offer on a lot of aftermarket is there for a reason, they’ll replace the part b/c they know it’s going to fail, but they won’t reimburse you for the lost time, lost work, or lost anything for needing to swap, and if the job takes more than an hour or requires replacing other stuff like gaskets, you’re totally boning yourself (gaskets don’t apply here). Denso is still making/rebuilding their parts to OEM quality; your replacement should last as long as the original, but moreover, it’ll function exactly like the original at minimal markup.

If you need proof of “same”, let me find a thread I created really quick.

 

Here is the proof: 100A vs 130A alternator for a 2006: https://www.tundras.com/threads/ran...a-vs-100a-denso-alternator-comparison.101975/

Same size. Same plug. More power.

Now, if you had an earlier year, with the ovular plug, this wouldn’t be the case, you’d need to re-pin into a new connector. For you, in the ‘06 this is a plug and play upgrade anyone should do when replacing, and only use Denso parts!!

 

Thanks everyone for taking the time to help me out!

@shifty` that's really great info so glad I came here for advice that's exactly what I needed to hear!

Think I will definitely be going that route especially since I would like to add some subs in the future & also not have to deal with another replacement any time soon!

Now I get to drive my gf's purple Mazda to work all week while I wait for my new alt to get here, unless I can find a 130 reman local which I doubt

Thanks again

 

@shifty` also, great illustration on the phallic serp belt in your other thread. That was really the only part I was worried about doing on the replacement, as it will be my first time lol

 

Oh man looks like these 130's on a national shortage according to the Denso website.
Doesn't appear on RockAuto unless I'm blind & out of stock everywhere else I've looked.

Thank you but damn you for making me want the finer things in life

 

Yeah, it seems like they come and go on shortage. Could be a few days, could be a few weeks before back in stock. Bummer. I remember others running into this issue.

I sold off my spare already, for a stupidly low price and I believe I gave my 100 away at the cost of shipping, or maybe free ride. There are some out there.

Just beware of shopping on fleaBay, WallyWorld, scAmazon. You may not get authentic parts. Poke around, maybe Summit Racing has something in stock? Sometimes you can get Denso brand at AutoZone or NAPA. They may have in-warehouse. You can also order direct from https://www.densoproducts.com/denso-auto-parts

But just because you order doesn't mean they're in stock.

 

Damn. Well I'm happy for whoever got that deal from ya! Haha

& for sure I'll give Denso a call tmrw & look around Some more.
They actually have a manufacturing plant close to me

I'll report back with findings/install once I get it replaced

Thanks for all the helpful info!

 

@shifty` one more question!

Will I need bigger cables with the 130 amp??

I got it ordered through Napa will be here Friday

 

If you were going to 150A Sequoia alterantor upgrade, I'd say "yes, you probably should do bigger cables". My personal opinion, take it or leave it? I think you'll be fine.

Again, I dunno where you got 80A or 90A or whatever earlier, if you have the tow package on your '06, 130A is what your truck should've come with in'06, from the factory. You'll know you have tow package by checking your build sheet at the Toyota Owners site, or simply looking at the rear of your truck to see if you have an OEM tow hitch with the 7-pin flip-up OEM harness bolted under the bumper.

​

 

@shifty` and @bfunke, for 2003 AC 4x4 4.7L with towing package, is there a Denso rebuild kit to trust, or is the experience just save the time and effort and get the 130A Denso alt?

@247K miles on original truck and alternator, it seems like a good proactive swap to do before brushes fail since currently a DD.

TIA.

 

Considering my factory alternator burned up a couple years ago in the low 60k miles, I'm jaded. Like, literally caught fire internally, I wouldn't blame you.

That said, I've never personally been able to find authentic Denso rebuild parts. There are a lot of sites online like this one (which I'm not endorsing, just sharing a link) which sell parts to rebuild your Denso alt. If I could trust their sources, I'd do it. I'm hoping I won't need to cross that bridge again in another 15+ years though. I may eventually get around to 150A upgrade, since it's plug and play for me. We'll see.

Curious, does your '03 have the older style oval plug? I never remember if the cutoff year is '02 or '03.

 

Man date: 5-2003

 

I think that's your A/C compressor?

Alternator is at the lower passenger side on the front of the block.

 

Oops. Yes, hence the refrigerant line! Recalled swapping the compressor on the 1st gen Tacoma located on the opposite side (accessed through wheel well) about where PS pump and alt is on Tundra. Ran out between other tasks thinking this was an easy photo! Not as easy to snap a pic but wanted get under today for other reasons anyway....

 

Looks like the ovular connector.

 

@ToyotaDude - My 2000 has 250k and both my Tundras running strong. I’ve had lots of Toyota trucks over the years and only one I rebuilt was my Surf’s (Japanese 4R). At the time I lived in Aomori prefecture where we got 200 inches of snow/yr and my truck was giving me every dash light dimly illuminated. Japan parts stores were really weird as they won’t sell you any part without the title or registration. With that document they put VIN into computer and can sell you any part. I got a kit with new brushes, bearings and a regulator. Took me about 30 minutes to dismantle and R2 those part sand fixed it for as long as I owned truck. I live in a small town in SC. About ten rears ago, my 2000 starter gave me the click of death and I went to an old school auto electric shop that rebuilds Denso and Bosch starters and alternators. He sold me the plunger and copper contacts for like $10 bucks and I fixed my starter. If you have one of those old alternator or starter shops where you live ask them. It’s a dying art these days but sometimes living in a small town where the old school mechanics still exist is a plus.

 

Music to my ears, you're awesome!

 

Really appreciate this. Thinking back to rebuilding Chevy alt for '72 Land Cruiser straight 6 to v8 conversion (required resistor to shut off). But in younger days with '88 22RE 4Runner before earning bulk of experience IIRC got a starter from a trusted local electrical shop as it was my DD so needed it fast and hadn't yet learned the simple art of rebuild, thinking it was a mysterous black box and was doing well enough to R&R it. Since then have swapped bendix and brushes, etc too. Think they're still in business and confident they'll have the parts and I'd trust them. Thanks for reviving the memories.

 

Read the thread but still trying to determine if since have the tow package there is a way to determine amps on the alt (as everyone's mileage seemed to vary on what came from factory) and if swapping to upgrade instead of rebuilding, where to source the connector?

 

If original factory part, it should be Denso, and you should find a label on it, somewhere, with the part number. I wish I could find a pic around here of someone who had their original factory part in, but ... I'm inept today.

 

This is my OEM 130 amp factory alternator:



And this is the voltage regulator from and aftermarket (not Denso) rebuild kit:

 

Denso it is.

Easy is not part number to find (while installed).

Looks like it lacks the TN prefix.



OE 27060-0F040 looks like Denso 130 amp (Denso reman 210-1065).