Need help with this door issue

I have the 2001 Toyota tundra regular cab long bed base model the driver's door latch has failed and the door is stuck in the closed position. Does anyone hear know of a way that I can get the door to open so I can replace the door latch assembly. The door panel I have managed to pull away from the door to gain some access to the inside of the door. I was able to remove the interior door handle and even using vice grips to pull on the inside latch cable no matter how hard I pull the door will not unlatch. The door is properly aligned to the cab if that helps. My truck has manual windows and the access I have to the inside of the door is from the top of the door panel pulled away with the window rolled down.

This happened to me last week and I had to resort to you cutting open the outer door skin to gain access to the latch. I was able to locate a used door with latch assembly that latch lasted 3 days and it broke. I really don't want to have to sacrifice another door by cutting open the door skin. I am in Phoenix Arizona if I have to sacrifice another door next nearest door available to me is located in central California.

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated thank you.

 

You might get lucky and find someone with some locksmithing tools to be able to Jimmy the door open. I don't know about where you live but here I can get someone to come pop my door open for about 50 bucks. Cheaper than buying a new door

 

Few times this has happened to guys recently, read through these and see if you can get some ideas.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/how-fd-am-i-door-locked-shut.127008/
https://www.tundras.com/threads/driver-door-stuck-closed.53448/
https://www.tundras.com/threads/driver-door-wont-open-from-outside-or-inside.86540/

 

Thank you for the replies I did read through those three threads all three of those threads for trucks that were access cabs. Where you go through the rear door on the driver side and grind off the bolts to remove the striker to get the doors open I don't have that option as my truck is a regular cab. I guess it looks like I either have to decide to the sacrifice the door or cut open the cab corner to get to the striker bolts. I can't remove the window track because I cannot get to the bolt on the bottom of the window track as that is in the door jamb area which you can't access with the door closed.

 

I'm honestly not very familiar with the single cabs or if you're single cab has any of the same points that I'm pointing to in the pictures as my DC but have you tried taking the screw out of the door latch that I'm pointing at or taking a trim remover and popping up the window control buttons or possibly accessing the hole under the armrest that I'm pointing to or the light that can probably be popped out fairly easily or maybe even the speaker cover if you have the same style speaker cover I have. My 2000 model has a different style speaker cover so you probably have that style but this style I have looks like it could be popped out with one of those plastic trim tools. They all look like potential access points that might not be optimal but might possibly have something you could utilize. I would just look for any trim or caps that could be popped off to access any screws at all make things a little more accessible or loose.

 

Mine is a regular cab base model. Manual windows locks and mirrors. I have removed the inside window crank and interior door handle. My door panel I have loosened along the top of the door but I can't get to the screw that is between the door panel and dash to fully remove the door panel. Your door panel doesn't look like mine, mine has a door pocket that runs nearly the entire length of the door panel along the bottom. Mine also has no switches that area is where my window crank is.

On my door there are 2 fasteners that hold in the rear window track, one bolt near the top that I have removed and the other is a nut located in the door jamb area near the bottom below the door latch. That I can't get to due to the door not opening. I pulled on the interior door release cable hard enough that it snapped the cable. I am going to try to bust up the latch with a long pry bar and a hammer. I don't know what else to do without cutting either the door or cab corner.i at least have spare door handles and window glass in case mine breaks lol.

 

Lol well yes it sounds like your at a dead end road. If cutting stuff is your last resort, at least cut on things that can easily and relatively affordably be replaced. Keep us updated with your results!

 

Somebody on here, I seem to remember paid a body shop to open his door, and then he or someone replaced the latch. I slid through the passenger side when mine started to get shitty as to avoid this issue, I've since replaced the latch with an OEM part. Good luck. My fuel door wouldn't open this morning at the gas station. I had to go back home and mess with that lock, luckily I've got it opening again. I'm glad I was close to home when it quit turning.

 

Call a locksmith to jimmy the door.

 

I had a locksmith come out and after an hour of trying he told me he couldn't get it open. I felt bad I could see his frustration.

I decided to go full caveman on it so to speak. I took a hammer to the outer door handle to break it up. Then using a combo of a crowbar and a long pry bar with the hammer I just smashed the latch until it finally broke apart and and got the door open. I destroyed the outer door handle and broke the window glass but at least the danged door is open.

I have a new Toyota latch ordered and I have a spare handle and glass already from the original door. I thank you all for the help. If all else fails beat it with a hammer lol.

 

when you reassemble it, check the window run isnt hitting anything. my door got stuck shut because the window run came loose inside the door and was bound up against the latch mechanism

 

I didn't think about that thank you I will check that. I plan on also using the window track pieces out of the original door that I had to cut just is case my caveman method did damage to them.

I just hope this fixes it as the truck otherwise is perfect for my contractor work. Yes it may have near 400k miles on the 3.4 V6 5 speed combo but it runs like new still. Has been very reliable over the last 12 years other than this nightmare.

 

My handle takes a couple of tries every now and then, usually works fine. Did you experience this symptom before it gave out? I might try and squirt some grease up in the mechanism.

 

Make sure to only use OEM parts on stuff like this because I've dealt with the cheap parts store china brand issue before. Never again on anything that hoses you up bad if it fails.

 

White lithium or silicone-based.