Nerf Bars | Steps | Running Boards

Looking for opinions on steps and running boards. I like the N-Fab and Rough Country Wheel to Wheel Steps, but I'm also considering the Go Rhino RB20 to hopefully help with preventing rock chips from wheel & tire offset.

 

I have the Toyota W Drop steps, but just ordered RB20s, so my vote is for Go Rhino. Sweet truck btw.

 

Beautiful truck!

If you don't offroad hard, and don't park where door dings are an issue, I recommend AMP Powersteps or similar.

I love the clean look (truck looks taller) when they are tucked, and having motorized steps is badass imho.
I also hate banging my shins on running boards, but YMMV.

This is mine with my new 34" AT tires.

 

I can see the appeal in those.
What did you go with?

That looks real good, well done!

 

These are the Go Rhino RB20. I definitely like the AMP Research Power Running Boards, but I went with this style mainly because of my wheel offset to hopefully prevent rock chips. I may eventually end up adding fender flares. They're not my favorite as far as looks, but they are definitely functional and more practical. If I had more $$$ to spend I'd probably just go ahead with the AMP Research Power Running Boards and fender flares. I was going to put on a leveling kit and call it good, but ended up ordering Bilstein 6112/5160 combo and Coachbuilder Shims & Shackles. Now if the 6112's will just ship so I can get it all installed....

 

Thats makes sense on the running boards.
My current setup throws dirty water all over the sides of the truck whenever it rains
I may get fender flares eventually, or new wheels or both idk lol.
I put to much into the bank's truck already tbh lol.

Very cool, that is the Bilstein setup I went with!

If your going to max the fronts you will want new UCA's for proper alignment also.
don't forget front diff drop and rear carrier bearing drops also

Yea, it never ends

 

I'm going 1.9" in the front with Coachbuilder .500" shims for 2.4" in front with 1.25" shackles in the rear. I plan on keeping the front UCA's and doing the carrier bearing drop kit. Everything I've read so far makes me believe I can achieve proper geometry with stock UCA's if I stay under 3". I hope I don't have to replace them or I would have went with a bigger lift, because I sure didn't save any money.

 

You are good, UCA's only needed if you go 3" or more.

I went with SPC UCA's and those made for less space to the tire when moving to wider tires so I stayed with 10.8in width tires.
Even then I still added wheel spacers a few weeks later for safety because I had like less than a pencil thickness between the UCA and tire sidewall.

Did you talk to CB about those front spacers/shims?
If I recall correctly, the 1/2in spacers add 1in lift, or something like that, its not a 1to1 adjustment.
Also the left/drivers side needs extra spacer to be level due to uneven length struts or something on most Tundras.
Mine has 2 spacers drivers' side and 1 passenger side for perfectly level stance at 3in.

Front lifts are hard on cv axles, I would do a front diff drop with any lift to be safe.
CV axle replacement is not cheap but YMMV.

Good on the Carrier bearing drop.

I went with CB +3 shackles for 1.75in rear lift, may even add 1in block later to get some rack back idk yet....
FYI the rear leaf shackle bushings were a motherfudger to get out, I gave up and reused the stock ones with the CB shackles, no issues in 2 years so far.


Personally I wish I had gone with a 6" lift, that is until I try to put stuff in and out of my bed lol.
The 3/2 that I did is just right, but does not look lifted enough imho.

Life is compromise lol.

 

Yeah, I talked to David at CB. I should be good with stock UCA's to get alignment within specs. I was going to do a spacer lift on the front and call it good, or maybe even just Bilstein 6112's in the front at 1.9" but after more and more research I see why so many do the shims and shackles. David says you need that 1" of factory rake to have the TSS work right. My '19 Quicksand ACLB Tacoma had a bad Taco lean, but my Tundra doesn't have much of one at all, so I'm going to rock it. The spacers are .250" for .500" of lift. I checked with the shop that's doing my install and they have a ball joint press tool and ball joint separator, so they should be able to handle the shackles.

 

Those look sweet! Question for you. My RB20s just arrived and I'm questioning whether or not I ordered the correct ones. I ordered from AutoAnything and asked through the chat function if I needed to order Crew Cab or Extended Crew Cab (not sure why they don't just call it doublecab and crewmax) and the associate was dead set that crew max needed crew cab - which didn't make sense to me as extended crew cab seems like it would be the longer ones, but I confirmed with him twice before ordering. Did your box have a measurement (80 inch etc.)? I can't find it online so I'm trying to determine if he guided me correctly not before unboxing these things by process of elimination. Thanks!

 

I ordered mine from AA as well.... This is the box w/ part #. I will say they did ship me one bed liner finish and one powder coated finish. I called Go Rhino, emailed warranty and they sent out a replacement. Problem is, they sent the wrong one, so they eventually sent out the right replacement and I sent the two wrong ones back. It was a bit of a fiasco, but at least it's in the past now.

 

Yea you are fine on the UCA's.

Ah ok now I understand your using the 1/4in spacers not the 1/2in that I used

Forgot about the TSS stuff, my 2014 doesn't have that, really wish I had the adaptative cruise for long trips/vacation

How do you know you don't have the lean without changing the suspension first?
They don't have lean from the factory when stock, only when you replace the front struts with non-Toyota struts.

I did mine on a lift in a buddies shop with all the tools also.
My bushings were really in there, all the press did was try to rip the center sections out.
I would have had to cut them out which was not worth the time/effort at the end of a 10 hour day doing all the suspension at once with my dads help.

I kept the nice CB bushings and may someday try to get them in there lol.

 

My 2019 Tacoma had the "Taco lean" on stock suspension. My understanding is that some have the lean stock, others don't; and people usually measure first then decide whether or not to accommodate for it. I've never heard it was from an aftermarket lift. Everyone claims it's from the extra weight of the battery and gas tank on the Driver's side. The Taco was bad noticeable parked in the driveway looking at the rear end. It was off over an 1/2". My Tundra is within an 1/8" all the way around so I'm just gonna go with it.

 

These are OEM aluminum coated with bed liner (came like that). Love em’. Work very well and have tons of grip in rain, snow, and ice.

 

Thanks! Like you, I called Go Rhino and they confirmed that I have the ones for a DoubleCab instead of CrewMax. While that is annoying since I had the guy from AA double check, I must say that Michelle from Go Rhino was super friendly and helpful. They're scheduling to pick these up and deliver the correct ones - hopefully within the next few days. Glad I didn't unbox these things, but I had a hunch. Thanks again for the info!

 

AMP steps are awesome, but don’t prevent door dings or protect from water and rock chips (had them on the Tacoma. My Tundra has the oem running boards which have grown on me and does protect from other doors and such. There’s not too much mention of the Aires actiontrac steps which are like amp steps but also act as running boards. I’m seriously considering pulling the trigger on those.

 

Yep, I went through something similar with my EGR rain guards. I told EGR AND AutoAnything about the discrepancies on the website(s). I ended up getting the ones for a CrewMax and the "hassle free" return was a freaking nightmare. They wanted me to ship them the wrong ones back, THEN they would ship me the right ones. I said I've never heard of a company doing that and I wasn't going to trust UPS/FedEx to not "lose them". They ended up refunding me except for a restock fee, so I just ordered the another set. These manufacturers and distributers really need to get it together.

 

I know it’s a PITA but try to get those CB bushings on…

I have heard some people say that they make no difference but I am in the opposite camp. I knew they were going to make a difference but not to the level I am experiencing. The Tundra is much more composed on turns and on rougher roads. I now swear by CB products because I have their front spacer as well. Everything just works very well and does improve the ride (CB’s alignment specs for the 1 inch lift).

FYI I have factory size P rated tires and a TRD sway bar.

 

Thanks for the advice.

I will certainly try to get to it sometime soon, but I no longer have shop access and don't even have a driveway let alone my own garage so I will have to pay a shop for this which suuuuucks.

I also have the TRD rear swaybar so my truck is pretty dialed in.

Thanks again for the feedback

 

Do you get a lot of mud stuck in the fenestrations of the boards? I live on a dirt road in the mountains and wondering if that would be a PITA to keep clean. I like the look. Thanks for sharing.

 

Ole Betty is just a Pavement Princess, so I can't answer that. I would imagine it could definitely be an issue, but probably nothing a pressure washer couldn't knock out in a few minutes. Probably keep the truck that much cleaner at the same time?

 

Get them [action trac]. I love em.

 

Love my RB 20 Go rhino steps

 

The stock suspension has height compensation built into it for the lean. The driver side rear springs are a bit longer. The lean is apparent when the stock stuff is replaced with aftermarket springs which do not compensate for the lean which is why shims are used

 

If it's there to compensate for a lean, then why is there still a lean?

 

Some trucks still have it and others do not. Is your setup stock? Do you have any extra cargo stowed on the driver side?

 

Currently still stock suspension. No added weight...

From Coachbuilder site:

** Tip: The Tundra Usually sits .50" lower in the front driver side corner, By using (2) shims on the driver side and (1) on the passenger side you're able to level the truck out left to right correcting the uneven stance. This product provides a 1:2 ratio and will measure .250" in actual thickness.