New Front Brakes and Rotors

So i need new front brakes.i brought a set from Napa and well 1st set warped and i made a claim and they sent me a different set yet same thing happened. What is everyone running? I read that some are using cryo and hawk pads or akebono and i came across frozen rotors and EBC. I just want a good set that going to help my truck stop.

 

I had to replace the ones on my wife's previous Highlander about 2 years ago, and I went with OEM. Straight as an arrow. Folks on here have had similar issues with aftermarket being warped out of the box.

 

I'm still rolling on oem brakes but plenty of people i know have Power Stop brakes and are pretty satisfied with that brand

 

So your saying go OEM

 

I've had good luck with PowerStop. They have kits on RockAuto.

 

PowerStop makes solid stuff. So does Wilwood. But bang vs. buck vs. longevity, if I don't need anything special, I'm just buying OEM and calling it a day.

 

Yea i saw powerstop have good reviews. I just want to honestly brakes without the pulsation

 

The pulsation comes from the rotors being warped. As long as you replace then (if too far out of spec to be resurfaced. I think the max is 0.4mm) you'll be fine.

 

Skip trying to resurface or turn your old rotors. Just makes them more susceptible to warping.

 

Yea these are done lol. I rather find a new brand. I dnt like to cheap out on brakes and tires. I just dont want spend the money and get the same result.

 

It's been posted on here about the LSVP and how adjusting it to be more rear bias will assist in front longevity and help prevent warping. I saw a pic PHM posted about how his was set all of the way down from the factory. I would look at that at the same time.
Better Braking Brakes! Easy!!! | Toyota Tundra Forum (tundras.com)

 

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I suppose the question would be, were both sets warped right out of the box? I have a hard time believing that NAPA couldn't source true rotors. Once maybe, but twice? How long before you noticed the pulsating? It doesn't take too long for a rotor to warp if a caliper is dragging hard. Lot's of questions...

 

Be sure not to over-torque your lugs as well. That can cause the same feeling when braking.

 

How long before they warped? Right out of the box? 30 miles? The reason I ask is because a dragging caliper/pads can warp a rotor pretty quickly. I went through two sets of rotors on my 2011 4Runner before I realized the caliper was the culprit. Changed it out, all was good. Only lasted a year before the piston seals started leaking, so I advise OEM calipers if that is indeed the problem. But, I digress... I just have a hard time believing 2 sets of NAPA rotors weren't good. Not calling you a liar, but I have questions...

 

I learned this lesson as well. Now I use a torque wrench. 90 ft. lbs. It's amazing how modern wheels (aluminum) can distort.

 

I have a cousin that works for napa and i told him was give me the best set of brakes pad and rotors you have. My 1st set last about 5k-10k miles before they warped. After i spoke to him about the situation they gave me a 2nd set under warranty. I have mayb 15k on that set. But i had my rears done recently and said my pad life was about 40% but rotors where done. So i got about 1-2 years 30 max out of both sets

 

Powerstop.

But if you watch the 3rd world manufacturing process, it's a wonder that any of them are good.

 

This is exactly why I would start to question a bad caliper, or driving habits. Do you left foot brake? Do you ride the brakes? The fact that you recently had the rears done (I don't know what "recently" actually is), and you say they are now at 40% leads me to think something else is going on. I.E. driving habits. Not trying to insult you, but a lot of things don't really add up.

 

I mean, ultimately this touches on part of our problem in the USA.

While some name brands undboubtedly manufacture parts over there, "ultra-budget" but to specs they defined, before freighting here as intended, that's not the only thing making it over here.

Almost every major manuf'er has different grades of parts, intended for different markets where low price point is more important than high quality. IOW, lesser quality parts at a lesser price, you may find something branded "Bosch" over there but it's priced 75% less what we pay, because the quality is lesser to cater to said market. There's also full-blown counterfeiting that happens, especially from factorys in mainland China, but that's another story.

Unfortunately, with cheaper manufactured parts in mills like those in the video, it's unfortunately profitable to ship them over here for sale at our market's higher MSRP (i.e. "grey market"). Because certain vendors over here (*cough* scAmazon *cough*) don't give a flying shit about verifying the supply chain of people selling, OR they allow anyone to fulfill the order shipping from anywhere (*cough* scAmazon *cough* fleaBay *cough* WallyWorld *cough* Sears *cough*), American consumers get screwed. Shit parts at average pricing.

When you're buying parts from the LAPS, brands like TRQ, CarQuest, Advics (only some examples), if it's cheaper, there's a solid chance you're getting the former, i.e. budget parts made at a factory like what's shown in the video, less-than-OEM quality, but sometimes a fraction of OEM pricing.

When you're buying parts from online vendors who cannot, do not, or will not validate their supply chain to ensure no grey market or counterfeit parts are entering their supply chain, you may be getting the former, a budget part, but paying slightly less than MSRP for a part that's half the quality. You may also be getting full-blown counterfeits, some of which may use pieces which are created at factories like what you see in the video.

I know OEM parts from Toyota and/or their dealerships are expensive. But at least when you're buying those, you're (A) almost certain to get legitimate parts on-par with the original quality shipped from the factory, (B) getting a part that's going to last as long as the original part did, which pays dividends in the long run, and (C) don't need to worry about fitment problems, quality control issues, or other problems that go with purchasing non-OEM.

Furthermore, people's willingness to buy things because they're cheaper, knowing good and well they're lower quality, is a huge part of what's has and continues to kill American industry.

 

I dnt have a heavy foot. My method is i rather get there then get there in pieces. And that that i have my daughter half the time with me i def do not speed or do anything crazy. And let re-explain. I had my rears done recently maybe 3 months ago and at the time my front pads were at 40% but i had the pulsating already but i wanted to get at least some out of them. So i am at the point were i have to replace them and looking to do a better purchase

 

Ok. I think we're talking in circles here. Bottom line is you need to replace everything. Use Toyota OEM. If the problem happens again, maybe we'll re-visit.

 

My Bro in law put full PowerStop front and rear rotors and pads on his 06’ Sequoia and he’s really happy with them.

I’ve had the same pads on my 06’ Tundra for over 140k, and I’m debating trying PowerStop. I may just got OEM though with new calipers.

I put all OEM on the GF’s 07’ Sequoia, and it’s smooth as butter right out of the box.

 

The set that you ran for 140k was this OEM?
Going to shop around for OEM with all the positive feedback about them.

 

I will take a look at my calipers as well

 

There's not much shopping around. You have to get them from a Toyota dealership or Toyota parts online. Calipers are running $250-$300 each, and rotors are running $80-$110 each. Disc brake pads are $80-$105 for a set(both sides).

 

If you're not driving around with your left foot on the brake pedal all of the time(riding the brakes), then you definitely need to look at the calipers as a problem for warping the rotors.

 

Well they were on the truck when I bought it, and they still have a bit left. I would assume not OEM, cause they suck

 

After getting like 150K from original rotors and several pad changes, got an aftermarket set from a nationally recognized auto parts store that pulsed in about a year. Replaced them under warranty and then decided to index them on the hubs before running them. They were at edge of or past spec (.0028" or .07mm). Parts store swapped em again, and actually tried two more sets ... with similar results in some cases measuring like .002"-.0035". So gave up on those and picked up the Toyota rotors and pads. One rotor had undetectable runout and another measured <=.001" on the hubs so ran em.

If you're having trouble, suggest checking runout first on your hub. If the hub is true, then can bolt the rotors on the hub (can leave calipers off) and check rotor runout. Then can index them by marking one stud and the rotor hat at the same starting position and measuring, then rotate one lug and check again, repeating for each lug until you find the sweet spot. Of course if its true on the first lug your done.

Mathematically can record any hub runout, then if have disc runout on first try that matches the position on the hub where the runout occurred, swap the disc 180 degrees to see if that fixes or exaggerates the disc runout - confirming if runout is from disc or just propagated from hub (or both). Sometimes hub and disc are both slightly off and can be mounted to offset each other.

Recall 1st gens with the 13WL caliper use the # 43512-0C011 rotor and appear to originally have come with semi met pads (# 04465-35250) but now Toyota sells a ceramic pad that has gone through several part number revisions. Currently found that # 04465-AZ200 are full width and not notched (reduced width).

See photos: The pads and rotors appear to be Advics (but dial photos are from a 1st gen taco as I recall). Advics rotors and pads can be purchased from other suppliers and the ceramic pads apparently come with shims unlike if purchased from Toyota:


Advics A6F004U Rotor

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/advics,A6F004U,rotor,1896

$84 ADVICS A6F004U Disc Brake Rotor

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09ZQ6L1G3


Advics AD0976 Brake Pad

https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/advics,AD0976,brake+pad,1684

$64 Advics AD0976 Front Brake Pad

https://www.amazon.com/Advics-AD0976-Front-Brake-Pad/dp/B0081WW6FQ

Hope this helps.

 

I had a terrible experience with hawk pads. They covered my wheels in dust like I've never seen before. Luckily, and unluckily, the braking material on one pad separated from the metal backing plate. Which you can imagine also destroyed the rotor. It happened sometime within the first 60 days of use but I was over cleaning my wheels every day. They were BLACK. Tossed them all in the trash and went back with oem