New power steering system for $5k?!

Came home to find fluid leaking from the steering rack boots onto the floor after sitting undriven for a month. Took the truck in to my local shop who quoted me 3.5k in parts and 1.5k in labor and almost fell over. They said tie rods need replacing as there is a lot of play in them and is unsafe to drive and would need to replace the steering rack, pump, pressure lines, etc. so like an entire new steering system which is why it is so expensive.

This seems like an insane amount of $ to fix it, any thoughts on reasonableness of this? They told me the truck is not safe to drive so I can't even take it to another place for a different opinion.

 

Insane for sure.

Last time I had mine done it was less than $1k for parts and labor.

 

Insane for sure. I wouldn't go replacing the pump or lines if only the rack is leaking. Sounds like something Firestone would tell a customer.
Get a second opinion for sure

 

Seems like a good time to buy a service manual set and maybe a few tools.

 

This seems like a tactic to strong-arm you into the work. Tell them to pound sand and take it somewhere else.

 

Thanks for the replies. The pump definitely seems bad based on the whining noise when turning the steering wheel and was told something about the lines should get replaced due to metal that may be in there that could get pumped into the new system. I don't know much about mechanical stuffs just know 5k hurts.

 

Did they says both sets of BJs, lower or inner/outers. Someone here correct me if I’m wrong but I don’t believe the inner/outet BJs are as critical as the lowers, there are pictures of the LBJ failures posted on this site that will definitely get your “attention”. Go to Shifty’s post on this and scroll down to the “Buy OEM parts only” only section https://www.tundras.com/threads/so-you-wanna-buy-just-bought-a-1st-gen-tundra-eh.115928/ I believe it would be safe to drive it to get a 2nd opinion as long as it was local and the joints were not about to fall off, you would have to make that determination.

There are a lot of good YouTube videos on all the items you mentioned in regards to checking and replacing them. Take a look at them….thats where I started and of course there’s plenty of members here that can help you out if you get it a tight. There may be some $$$ investment to begin with in regards to tools but it’s well worth it.

 

Some confusing verbiage here.

steering-inner tie rod-outer tie rod
Suspension- upper ball joint-Lower ball joint

I think you may be conflating the two.

OP complained about steering rack leaks and noisy pump. While replacing Ball joints of unknown condition is generally good advice, it has nothing to do with his original complaint.

 

First off, find a new shop.

Second, whereabouts are you located?

Third, and maybe most important, what are the details of your truck? Year, cab type, engine, 2WD/4WD? Package/trim?

Given the prices you got quoted and scare tactics, it sounds like you visited a stealership, this is exactly the kind of BS they pull knowing they’re either going to sell you a new truck AND score a great trade-in on the cheap OR make a mint on unnecessary shop time doing the repairs. And it works, clearly you’re beside yourself right now. Some scummy ones will go a step further and upsell you on other unnecessary work/problems they “found” while doing the work because they know you’re a sucker for believing them without a second opinion.

You need to understand, based on what I’ve seen from other 1st gen Tundra owners here who bought OEM, the OEM steering rack comes with inner tie rods and boots/bellows/bushings included, and costs around $600-700 if you buy it through any of the popular dealerships’ online sites we on this forum like to use (MSRP direct from the parts counter will be ~ $900). That only leaves the outer tie rods to replace, which shouldn’t be more than $150/ea for the most expensive brand you can find. With the rack, you should use OEM here, and with the lower ball joints also for safety/longevity sake. Anyone, including a competent Toyota-specialist shop should be able to replace every part I just listed in under 2-3 hours shop time, I have no doubts I can do the job while casually drinking cheap cold beer in under 4, then take it to get it aligned after. I emphasize Toyota specialist shop because you Do NOT want to use a chain store for this work. There are plenty of dudes who were working at Toyota stealerships, hated it, and eventually went private. Find one. If that’s who you went to see, find a different one!

Anyway… was it a dealership scare you like this, or a chain auto repair shop, a private shop?

Oh, and with the 1st gen Tundras we all experience a little hum with our power steering pump. I have it with mine, drove me nuts when I first got the truck back in 2019, that and the engine tapping that sounds like lifter/valvetrain noise, especially considering it barely had 60k miles back then and still less than 80k miles total today. I’d love to hear the whine you’re hearing on video, to see I’d it’s the same as the rest of us. And I’d like to see a photo showing the color of the fluid in your reservoir with a flashlight pointed at it.

 

One more thing I will add (as you have already been given the best information) is that if you are leaking fluid, of course your pump is going to whine. It's low on fluid.

 

If the fluid is full & still whines a bit of fabric softener can quell that demon.

 

I have a 2005 Tundra Limited 4.7L 4WD Double Cab and live in the foothills just outside Denver. I took it to a privately owned shop that specializes in Toyota and Subaru. I have gone here many times and they have always been reasonable even when I first bought the truck and asked them to give it a look over and provide some feedback on things that I should address and they came up with nothing which I felt pretty good about in that they could have tried to sell me something and didn't. However, this shop recently changed owners.

I have attached some pictures that I had prior to taking it in to get looked at if they help, sorry I dont have one from the reservoir but there is one below that I used to catch the fluid leaking. I have some audio from a video I took and would be happy to share if there is an easy way to do this. I have asked for an itemized estimate that they committed to getting to me this morning that I can provide later.

 

After reading my post it did sound confusing, I was responding to the ball joint part of his post….whether it be an upper/lower or inner/outer. The main point of my post was to get the idea across that with the correct tools, research, and commitment all the work could be done by himself.

 

For $5k, you could buy a round trip plane ticket to fly out a mechanic anywhere inside the continental US...and that will also cover enough “carry on” to include all the replacement parts and whatever tools are needed.


....when do you want me out there?

 

Here's your steering rack plus TREs.



https://www.detroitaxle.com/part/20...ion-outer-tie-rods-suspension-kit/3ks1900579/

Here's your PS pump.



https://www.detroitaxle.com/part/20...pumps/power-steering-pump-with-pulley/pp5264/

Here's your PS hoses.



https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...01,steering,power+steering+pressure+hose,7320

And here's your rack bushings.



https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-8-10104g/make/toyota/model/tundra/year/2002

That sure as hell isn't $3.5k in parts.

It's not a fun job to replace the rack and hoses, but it's doable with basic hand tools and a 2nd set of hands.

 

So will

$15 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205. and AT-205 will also rejuvenate seals to quell rack leaks. But it looks like OP has a pretty significant leak, like a seal is breached.

Sounds like the new owner previously worked at a stealership, because that's a typical dealership tactic they're employing now. Like, exactly what the worst of the worst dealerships do. Find another shop, this one isn't where you want to be going under the new ownership.

So a few things.

One, the flecks you're seeing aren't unheard of. Several people on here, including the dudes who've written up on how to fluid swap, have found similar in their reservoir and in their used fluid. Also, that fluid is brown af.

Two, I'm fairly sure power steering for the entire range of 2000-2006 use ATF, it should be a nice red-to-garnet color depending on miles. It doesn't use traditional "power steering fluid" (even though both are hydraulic fluids similar in nature, the additive package and a few other thigns are slightly diff't). I'm curious if someone mixed at any point, but it's not important.

Three, clearly the seals are leaking on that rack. I'd also add it looks like you've been leaking at the fittings on the driver's side of the truck, based on how much dirt/fluid buildup are just below them. Although, sometimes I believe a driver's side valve cover leak may dump oil on that spot too, which could be confusing - double check for that.`

Four, we'll happily give input on other front suspension stuff if you give pics. I mean, we can't do push-pull tests remotely for you (but you can, if you have a jack, we can explain how) so you know if the tie rods, bearings, or ball joints are in dire shape.

 

There was a recent episode of Two Girls Garage where they showed how to rebuild one without any expensive specialty tools. It’s season 12 episode 8

 

Unless the pump is whining because the fluid level is low

 

Don’t run the engine without fluid in the PS reservoir.

 

Below is the quote which now shows $3.8k. Notes state 'steering rack is leaking/inner tie rods are worn- recommend replacing assembly-vehicle is unsafe to drive at this time. Power steering pump not functioning and leaking, along with power steering pressure lines- vacuum switch valve is not functioning-recommend replacing'. Looking up some of these parts on toyota parts website seems like it is much cheaper to buy online and pick up at my local dealer.

 

Yes ^^

They are charging you dealer MSRP for the parts, and they're listing the OEM part number on it also (if you remove the "AAA.." the remaining 10 digits and hyphen are OEM part#). I'm going to take a stab and say they probably have a parts agreement with the local stealership for wholesale pricing which is on-par with what you personally can get ordering online direct thru Toyota for pickup at your local dealer.

A good shop does minimal markup on parts, or at-cost, just charges for labor. The trusted shop I use on the rare occasion I need something marks up 5% over their wholesale and chalks it up to handling/convenience/whatever to cover their time and effort on ordering, I guess.

You could actually just buy the parts list they're showing and hand them the parts, but they'll find another way to fluff, or charge extra for "customer supplied parts", I'm sure. That's another shady tactic I've seen elsewhere, and it's usually a percentage vs. a fixed amount, because they want their money.

I honestly would just replace the rack on your own if you have an extra pair of hands to help with install. But maybe I'm more adventurous than most. I dunno.

Power steering pump and lines are a no-brainer. OEM pump is super easy to replace, and I'd consider doing the alternator while in there if not done in the last 100k-150k miles, or it's factory. You need to loosen one power steering pump bolt while doing the alternator, would be just as easy to remove and replace both.

 

I got no friends and no tools. If someone in the Denver area wants to teach a mechanically illiterate person, I'm game. Otherwise I'm at the mercy of a shop.

 

It’s like when you were a kid and you took apart something for fun and then put it back together the same way you took it apart. The tools that you need are very basic and cheap. You can pick up a quality starter tool set with all of the sockets and wrenches you’ll need for under $200 that will last you a lifetime.

EDIT: there are instructional videos galore all over the Internet and if you will post pictures of your progress, we can walk you through it step-by-step

 

Those prices are MSRP, some dealers offer discounts when ordered online. My local dealer is 25% off.

Don’t disrespect the truck with after market parts

I didn’t fully read the whole thread, but if that pump ran without fluid for awhile it might be cooked. If it leaking right at the high pressure fitting at the rack, it’s just an o-ring, but Toyota doesn’t list that o-ring as an individual part.

This is a pretty involved project, I’d be hesitant to take it on for a friend and promise them a finish date.

 

I thought steering racks included inner tie rod ends? Weird.

 

It appears OEM rack does include bellows and inners. This is based on Noah's pictures of his OEM rack in an open box.

To that point, if OP just bought an OEM rack from Toyota online for $650 and brought it to the shop to install it, that shouldn't be more than 2 hours labor realistically, so out the door under $1,000-$1200 depending on what their labor is, I'd assume between $175-225/hr.

 

Sounds like new shop owner has a boat payment due.

 

Confirmed, my oem rack came with inners and rack bushings as well.

 

Was your old rack leaking? I'm ordering new bellows now. Toyota is having another sale. This time 15% off.

 

No, I don’t even know why I replaced it at 160k…… but I had fun? Hahah not really
I think I was trying to hunt down the weird play in the steering, im almost sure it’s the weird rubber coupler thing that is loosy goosey offroad and the slight play in the steering wheel