Newbie working with some frame rust

As indicated by the title of the post - working on some frame rust for the first time myself after owning the truck for a few years and trying to get some guidance on how to handle this rust.

This is above the rear driver's side wheel. The right side looks fine and the remainder of the frame looks to be in good shape. Replaced the exhaust and pipe last year due to rust, but that was mainly due to the connection points.

 

Looks like mostly surface rust under a rust encapsulator paint. Should be easy to take a wire brush, clean off and re-apply the encapsulator paint. If you really want it to look good, a die grinder and wire wheel attachment should easily remove all the surface rust.

Edit: Looks like the original paint now that I see it up close on a 32" computer.

 

Needle scaler? What is it everyone recommends besides ospho?

I dont have that bracket. Not really sure what it would be for...traction bar?


maybe its for airbags...

 

Needle scaler + ospho and then fluid film?

 

Airbags -- I just took them out and put in springs and we didn't remove the bracket.

 

Check the frame stiffeners, inside the frame rail where the front leaf spring mounts are.

 

here?

 

I think another spot to check is the spare tire hanger.

 

here's the backend plus spindle.. thanks for the advice!

 

Zooming in and overlooking the dirtiness, I'd give it 7/8 frame condition for a 23 yr old truck

 

Yeah, really not too bad.

 

Pressure wash that nasty hoe so you know EXACTLY what the rust looks like but ignoring the dirt, looks decent.

 

Not too bad, if you flip your spare, it'll be easier to check the pressure.

whats the swing-out doohickey in the reciever?

 

Thanks for all the feedback .. 7/8 is great news

The swing out is a rockymounts bike rack that swings out to the side of the tailgate. Allows for hauling bike and not obstructing our camping setup

 

For a 23 yro truck that frame is spotless! UP here our trucks look like that after a winter or 2, phuckin salt!!!

 

This what you get on a brand new truck in MA after the very first winter.

If you're ok with a sticky frame for a year or two until it cures, Noxudol is superior product. Spray Noxudol 700 inside the frame and in all hard to reach joints, spray or brush 1600 everywhere else. This is a one time job, unlike fluid film.

 

Yes, but from the other side...looking inside out.

 

Looks great but you caught it in time. Once the paint starts to fail if the frame keeps seeing salt and moisture it will start rusting faster.

 

That's in great condition given its age. As others have said, wire wheel/needle gun and apply some rust prevention. A good rinse to remove that salt and road grime in the pics will make things look a lot better (and give a better idea of where you should focus).

 

any recommended products for the rust prevention? I'm seeing fluid film and por15 thrown out in the forum. I assume this is after layering in a degreaser, right?

 

https://www.noxudolusa.com/

 

I tried Fluid film but I like the Amsoil Heavy Duty Metal Protector much better. It leaves a good waxy like film that really lasts long. I never tried noxudol.
https://www.amsoil.com/p/heavy-duty-metal-protector-amhsc/

 

Noxudol/Mercasol is what Swedes use in Volvo. My 2005 was rust free in 2017 when I totaled it. I'm in eastern MA, white road stuff in winter is salt, not snow. Its replacement with 220k miles has had some rust under right rear fender flare, but I suspect it spent a few years sitting in snow, with battery fully drained (battery is a part of chassis rust-prevention).

So I sprayed my Tundra with Noxudol when it was new. I take it for semi-hard offroading a few times a year, Noxudol holds up pretty well. When it gets some frame spots scratched down to the metal, I just apply new Noxudol with a brush. Small pinches it heals on its own, no attention required. After 4 winters the frame is in spectacular shape. I was so impressed with both Tundra and Noxudol that we sold wife's Ford-era Volvo, got her a Sequoia, and sprayed it with Noxudol, too. Good thing is though 1600 is tar-like, it does not trap water, but instead pushes it away from metal. It also doubles as a sound deadening: reduces road noise in cabin transmitted by the frame.

I'm sure others do something similar to Noxudol now, because it works so good, I just haven't tried. Paint, POR and fluid film are behind the anti-rust progress for sure.

 

I've just used fluid film, but may look at Noxudol..