No Heat

Sunday I disconnected the blower motor and relay to check that grill that @Professional Hand Model
Posted pictures of. Mine was clean so I decided not to mess with it. I put everything back together and since then I have no heat in the truck. I confirmed that both are plugged back in correctly. I can hear the blower motor running but the air isn't coming out hot.

Obvious place to start is the fuse box?

Below is the heat relay according to fuse box diagram. How does one check this further?

 

Hoping you didn’t mess up the motor blower resistor (in my pic). I have no idea what relay is in your pic. Never saw or touched that when doing what I did. Go back and retrace your steps. Check any connections. Don’t quit your day job.

 

The relay in the pic is from the fuse box under the hood. I was checking to see if I blew a fuse somehow. I really don't see how I could have damaged anything. The blower motor was extremely easy to remove and put back. So was the resister. I'll check everything again.

Someone with an understanding of heat needs to chime in. If I'm getting air that's just not hot, what's the cause? The blower motor just pushes air through the vents which it's doing.


@empty_lord any thoughts?

 

No heat but the blower motor works? Might have a servo failed that actuated the heater mixer on the firewall under the hood. It’s dead center of the fire wall of these trucks. There’s a cable that goes to it. See if the level moves by hand, but don’t force it. If it does it’s possible your cable broke

 

Is that the cable that swings under the resistor body? That cable clicks into a slot under the ducting. May it got pulled to hard?

 

Yes I can both hear and feel the blower motor working. Trying to locate the cable you're talking about.
Thanks

 

Now that you mention it. I did move that cable. I was wondering what it did. I'll check that after work.

 

I found another thread on this forum for the same or similar issue.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/02-tundra-heater-not-getting-warm.4309/

Looks like the cable he's referring to is part of this

 

Not really thread related, but dude, you are a %$#&ing MACHINE when it comes to maintenance tips, pics with labels and details...I don't know how you find the time, but I'm glad you do...I'm beginning to think we need a sticky for something like this... "Professional Hand Model Appreciation Thread!"

We may need to start a collection to buy you some hand protectors as a sign of our gratitude...

 

I agree about the heat blender/mixer if the blower is working. In my wife's Jeep Liberty there was debris that was jamming the blender door. If I remember correctly, I unhooked the cable and manually opened and closed the door until it moved freely and reattached the servo cable. Everything then worked as it should.

 

Is this door under the dash or outside under the hood?

I found this post online, still trying to track down all these parts.

 

I agree. I want to know where he finds those pictures(post 6). PHM deserves his own section at this point.

 

This is what I could find. The first few minutes show where the blender doors are located.



EDIT: If you go past where he is reconditioning the parts, he talks about some other things to check if your heat isn't working.

 

From the archives. Looking sideways from drivers footwell.

 

The hot/cold dial cable leads there. Hot water passes through and is controlled there, which leads to the heater core.

 

I fixed it. Turns out that cable under the glove compartment is really important.




I re-positioned that cable in the bracket/holder and got the heat to work but then I couldn't turn the dial to the cold side. I took all the slack out and put it back in the bracket and that solved the issue. It looks like those arms under there could use some cleaning and lubing. @Professional Hand Model you think some of that silicone lube you use would be ideal?



The lesson here is to quit screwing with stuff if it's not broken. I appreciate all the responses.

 

If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.

 

I re-positioned that cable in the bracket/holder and got the heat to work but then I couldn't turn the dial to the cold side. I took all the slack out and put it back in the bracket and that solved the issue. It looks like those arms under there could use some cleaning and lubing. @Professional Hand Model you think some of that silicone lube you use would be ideal?



The lesson here is to quit screwing with stuff if it's not broken. I appreciate all the responses.[/QUOTE]


Good to see it was a simple fix

 

Well, your duct and coils could have been dirty like mine and you wouldn’t know it until you looked. I think, coming from your admission, you are inexperienced in working with your hands. Good on ya for trying to check it out in the first place. A newby tip is take your time and always check, then re-check, then re-check again your work as you go through each step. You actually save time by properly fixing things the first time. W. Edwards Demming (Toyota Godfather) is a great study on this.

 

Credit goes to @empty_lord for the initial diagnosis.

 

Fair point. I'm certainly no hand model.

My coils didn't look anywhere near that dirty. That's why I opted to just leave them be. I'm saying the little arms/levers that move the vent cables are dirty(below). I may clean those up a bit so they don't have to work as hard to operate. This was just me getting in a hurry and not realizing the importance of that cable. It has to go back a specific way. Lesson learned!

 

Those driver side plastic levers and such I used regular Vaseline. I really like Moly-b Lithium, but the stank is too powerful for inside the cabin.