'not ready to drive' displayed and will not start?

Die hard GMC guy who after 30 years switched to Toyota. Bought 2018 Tundra from original owner with 9k miles last week. Been loving it until yesterday when I loaded it up and was ready to hitch up my boat too drive/move to our new house and boom! Won't start!! Of all the times for this to happen.. all the lights come on just like normal but nothing. Almost like I'm using a key that isn't programmed to the truck. Neither key works. Any ideas all you Toyota lovers??

 

Is she in park?!? Lol I don’t have a newer one so it sounds like a tss issue, maybe someone else will have a better idea

 

Lol. Yes that's the first thing I made sure of. Tried starting in neutral as well. Unpacked sooner box's to find extra key and tried that. Same result.

 

Maybe disconnect the battery cables and reset the computer.?

 

Probably you need a new battery, when i got my truck it only lasted me a year and a half and i replaced it. And your is a 2018 maybe a possibility.

 

Has 9k miles and voltage is great. Idk it's under warranty still but I hope I didn't make a mistake changing brands. My dad always says don't fix it if it ain't broke. GMC 5 of them never left me stranded ever!!

 

The battery in my 2018 started taking a shit at about 12k miles. It would still start but struggle sometimes, and started seeing weird electrical issues. You should still be under warranty if the original sale date is less than 36 months, and they'll give you a brand new battery with an 84 month warranty if you get the same deal I did.

 

@Ruggybuggy

 

The only time I’ve seen those earning messages is when I take the positive terminal off the battery for any length of time. After putting it back on, the first crank won’t start the truck and I get those warning messages. The second crank starts the truck and I’m all set.
I’m guessing it’s a battery issue. Also could be the terminal not being tightened down enough but that’s pretty doubtful.

 

Battery seems fine. Voltage is good. Headlights work great. It won't even try to engage the starter. Almost like ignition is disabled

 

Just because the voltage is fine doesn't mean there isn't a bad cell. My voltage also read 13v, but when I took it to the dealership and had it tested, it was bad.

 

Sounds exactly like the problems I had in my 17. Everything looked fine just wouldn't start. Wouldn't even jump start. Pulled the battery and had autozone test it. They said it was bad so I just bought a new one. Not a single problem since.

 

Did yours make any sounds like the starter was at least trying to do something?

 

Maybe that's why the PO wanted to get rid of it? I had so much trouble with a Nissan truck I bought new in 92. I got tired of the endless trips to the dealer and no satisfaction during my 8 months of owning it that I traded it in for a Chevy. I wish I still had the Chevy.

 

I think the "not ready to drive" message is normal. I get that every time I start my truck because I turn the key to On and hold it there for a couple seconds before bumping it over to Start.

 

Exactly, battery needs to be load tested. If you have 2 people have one turn the key while the other observes the voltage drop. I bet it is below 11.

 

@ViktorG Any ideas?

 

Mine would try and turn over the first couple of times then nothing. Tried for an hour to jump start it. No go there either. Light would light up in the inside, radio would play, even the ac would kick on. Turn it all off and still would not start. New battery cured all that ailed it.

 

@Ely010606 nailed it. Battery failure mode is primarily by non-conductivity (bad cell), and it happens instantly. I drove my 2017 on errands all morning. We returned home and unloaded the shopping, and the truck wouldn't start again when I went to move it into the garage. Some clicking, but then that went away too. Once you get yourself a good battery (Northstar), you'll have a highly reliable, low mileage truck.

 

Again volts means nothing,its for lights, radios, and what not, Batterys works as two parts, volts and cranking amps, its the cranking amps thats starts the truck, you need 710 cranking amps to turn the starter, its telling me you have a dead cell or cells.

 

Does the check engine light come on for a few seconds after turning the key to “ON” position during the dash light check?

 

Instantly is correct. I backed mine up to hook up boat last summer. Went in to house to change and grab dinner. Went back out to hook boat up and nothing. Both my Tacomas gave me some warning. A couple of slow starts was it.