Odometer turned back?

Hello Tundra Guys,
I really like my Tundra. I have learned a ton from the all the contributors.
I also have noticed (what seems to me) that my 101K Tundra is MUCH older
than the Odometer states. I have had several repairs that seem to affect much
higher mile Tundras. Now that I have uncovered the Slime Monster lurking under
my valve covers, it’s really raising my eyebrow. I tried to look up my VIN.
I don’t have an account with the VIN check companies. So I got nowhere.
My Tundra is displayed as an XSP model. Toyota search shows my
Tundra to be a standard SR5. I’m asking the forum how easy would it be to wind
back the Odometer, or completely change out the Instrument panel?
I stuck with this truck for a while. I’m fine with that, I like it. I CAN get it in shape. Just wondering what happened
before my ownership.

Odd findings, the Timing belt was original. The valve covers have never been off.
The drive shaft needed overhaul. The front wheel bearings were toast. Shocks are
Non existent. I can’t find anything that looks like it truck was wrecked or has a new engine.
Even the XSP badging and XSP accessories look factory installed.

Thanks Guys.

 

lots of gunk under the valve covers is a tell tale sign of low mileage cars.. low mileage typically means alot of short driving trips.. this breaks down oil fast. the XSP package was a Southeast toyota port install deal. they take SR5 trucks off the line and make them XSP trucks. the toyota system still still designate it as a SR5 though.

likely the truck truely has 101k miles. age affects parts too. it just may very well have been a neglected 100k miles

 

What you found under your valve covers is typical for a low-mile engine that lived its life taking short trips and lacked good oil change interval and/or used shit oil. I've actually seen worse on engines I've torn down. While I know it's not easy to see, or something you'd have any reason to think existed before popping off your valve covers, and something most owners wouldn't see because they wouldn't dare do the work, it's a reality of a low-mile older engine. It's also something you can solve with a couple of basic flushes.

Low-mile trucks that don't see regular use have rubber that shrinks, dry rots, things get corrosion and stiff from not moving, actuators freeze up, there's a myriad of things that go wrong. This is exactly why low-mile vehicles are NOT the virgin grail people make them out to be. Don't be disheartened, it's just a fact of life. Make lemonade from lemons and move on, make what you want to make of this vehicle.

Throw some "high-mile" Seafoam in the oil filler about 500 miles before your next oil change. Do the next oil change after about 20-30 mins of driving so things are good and hot, then let things settle for 20 minutes before draining oil and refilling with high-quality high-mileage synthetic oil (just spend the extra $20 on it). 500 miles later, repeat the "high mileage" Seafoam treatment, run for 500 more miles and repeat. You'll flush all that shit out after 3-4 cycles of this, and remove a lot of the varnish on it.

I know some older cats who'd tell you to replace 2qt of oil with 2qt kerosene instead of Seafoam. That would probably do it in 1-2 cycles, clean as a whistle, versus 4 rounds of the high-mile Seafoam or Marvel Mystery Oil, or whatever. Or take your truck somewhere that does the BG Dynamic flush, and pay $350-500 to have someone totally get things down to shiny silver metal and no sludge in the engine, so you can start over.

Doing illegal shit like putting a false odometer in isn't the solution here. And I doubt your odometer is wrong in the first place. I think this is a combo of low miles, short trips, and poor maintenance. It happens. Now fix the problem

 

Jinx!!

 

no shit LOL!

 

Go to bed!

 

This guy knows what he’s talking about. Low mileage older cars are often basket cases. Just as soon as you start driving them everything organic will disintegrate and it bears repeating that lots of short trips are not in anyway better than highway miles.