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OEM vs ?? parts

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by tacoguybill, Apr 28, 2021.

  1. Apr 28, 2021 at 9:40 AM
    #1
    tacoguybill

    tacoguybill [OP] The Burrito Bandido

    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2017
    Member:
    #8311
    Messages:
    244
    First Name:
    Bill
    Saaaan Diaaago
    Vehicle:
    06 DC SR5 4x4 174k, 04 Sequoia SR5 4x4 105k
    Good Afternoon Everyone!

    Couple questions for the masses if you guys have some time on your hands....

    Last year I replaced CV axle and wheel hub bearing on the drivers side and now I'm getting a rotational womwomwom that doesn't seem to be coming from the drivers side so I'm going to be ordering a wheel hub bearing for the passenger side, the ripped boot on the passenger CV axle will probably be replaced while I'm at it.

    My question and the reason for the post is should I consider replacing LBJs and bushings while I'm in there and should I stick with OEM or is 1A auto worth considering?

    I'll also be replacing the timing belt and pump because I bought the truck at 110 and am not certain of the last replacement.

    There seems to be a oil leak which I suspect is rear main seal (moved from FL to VA last summer so I suspect that could be from drastic fluctuations in temp.)

    What else should I replace while I'm at it? I'm committed to running this truck to 300K+ so I don't mind investing in its longevity but don't want to break the bank either. (like to keep it under 2K)

    For reference the truck is at 148,500 miles.
     
  2. Apr 28, 2021 at 9:58 AM
    #2
    Cummins3500

    Cummins3500 Never finishes.....

    Joined:
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    Member:
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    First Name:
    Logan
    Vehicle:
    2006 tundra double cab, 2014 Cummins 6-speed manual
    *Lower ball joints wouldn’t be a bad idea. Buy oem on the lbj’s for sure.

    *lower control arms- shop around for a good deal on some moogs or oem

    *alignment tabs frozen?
    Spc works fine

    *sway bar still on the truck?any lift/level kit?


    *what’s your upper ball joints look like?
     
  3. Apr 28, 2021 at 10:06 AM
    #3
    rock climber

    rock climber New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2019
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    Colorado
    Vehicle:
    2001 Sequoia 4X4, 2000 AC 4X4
    Our trucks can be finicky on certain parts where aftermarket just doesn't work as well. Off the top of my head the main ones are lower ball joints, carrier bearing, timing belt and associated parts, oil seals, CV Axles, oxygen sensors and rear drums. The plus side is a lot of those parts were made by somebody else for Toyota so the only things that have to be purchased from a dealer are the lower ball joints, oil seals and rear drums.

    I'd check most other wear items like steering rack bushings, shock bushings, spark plugs and basically every fluid.
     
  4. Apr 28, 2021 at 12:43 PM
    #4
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

    Joined:
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    First Name:
    Fred
    ‘Somewhere’... a State of Mind
    Vehicle:
    2002 Tundra SR5 4WD 4.7L AC Silver Metallica
    Hand Protectors
    OEM only and always for life for just about everything! You can source Toyotas manufacturers directly for parts at 1/3 the price usually like via Hitachi, Denso, Aisin, etc.

    Ball joints, LCA you can get through your local Stealership Toyota Parts Programme.

    SPC Bolts thingys are best (according to my sales guys who did my front rebuild). Says ‘you can do more adjustment’ and ‘they cost less’.
     
  5. Apr 28, 2021 at 3:56 PM
    #5
    AV8R4AA

    AV8R4AA New Member

    Joined:
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    First Name:
    Greg
    Justin Texas
    Vehicle:
    2005 Tundra XSP
    I thought I was the only one here.

    I hear that womwomwom from my teenagers all the time!
     
  6. Apr 28, 2021 at 6:06 PM
    #6
    speedtre

    speedtre New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2019
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    #24808
    Messages:
    1,699
    Inland Northwest
    Vehicle:
    2006 BSM Toyota Tundra DC TRD 4x4
    What looks like a rear main seal leak is often seepage from valve covers at the rear dripping down. Every Toyota truck/suv I've owned has leaked/seeped from the VC but not one from the RMS. RMS is a PITA and expensive to replace. Valve covers are not too bad or expensive.

    I would clean the oil and torque your VC to spec and keep any eye on it to see if you need new VC seals or a RMS. Just the retorquing might fix your problem.
     

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