Oil filter discussion

I was reading this post: https://www.tundras.com/threads/oil-of-choice-synthetic-or-natural.1490/page-2

It touches on oil filters. It mentions the stock Toyota oil filter vs the Toyota TRD oil filter. Mike posted: TRD filter uses a different filter and it’s a less flowing filter ( means it flows more freely) vs the Toyota filter.. They would really be ideal in cold weather like 10 degrees and colder climates..

edit
http://www.tunemytoyota.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7343 Example of one torn down..
That link doesn’t seem to work. Does anyone know the difference between the standard Toyota oil filter and the TRD oil filter??

My concern is that if the TRD filter flows more oil, it may not be suitable for street use since it may be a bigger filter micron size and let particles by that may be trapped by the standard oil filter.

I track my Corvette and run different oil and filters when I track than when the car is on the street. When I time trial the car, I tend to run a WIX 51060R filterand Racing oil. Seems the Wix racing vs Wix non-racing oil filters trade off flow (9 - 11 GMP vs 28 GPM) for filtration size 21 micros vs 61 micros. Racing oiltends not to have the rust inhibitors and detergents of street oils. So, I run the car, drain and change back to street oiland filtration.

If the TRD oil filter is made for racing, it may not be suitable (or advisable) to use it for street use. But this is an assumption on my part and I really do not know.

Does anyone know the difference between the oil filters?

 

I found this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fPU1jHDDcq0

He said the TRD oil filter does not give a consumer warrantee. But does it void your Toyota warrantee?

I wish he got more into flow rates of each filter and how many microns each filter had. That would have been more fact based.

Running a filter for 6 months and doing and engine oil analysis, then doing the same with another filter and doing another engine oil analysis may be helpful. I have used Long Island Analytical laboratories. Others I know use Blackstone.

 

I use the TRD filters. Toyota says it filters down to 20 microns. Whether that's much/any better than the normal one, I'm not sure. I bought a bulk pack that ended up being only a buck extra per filter.

https://www.sparksparts.com/accesso...s-trd-high-performance-oil-filter-ptr43-00081

 

I'm not sure which version to use. My bed used to have a trd sticker but I took that off. Should I still use the trd version?

 

Other than being better built .. are you guys running them for extended OCI's like a lot of the upper trim oil filters?

I buy the OEM filters in bulk. Can't justify paying 2x more.

 

Using any aftermarket parts can not "void" a warranty, If the OEM can prove said part caused a failure under warranty then you are SOL. It's common practice for dealers/OEMS to say you must service, purchase via authorized service or parts. It's a good bluff but when called on they will typically lose.

The law does not require any product to have a warranty (it may be sold "as is"), but if it does have a warranty, the warranty must comply with this law. The law was created to fix problems as a result of manufacturers using disclaimers on warranties in an unfair or misleading manner.

Warrantors cannot require that only branded parts be used with the product in order to retain the warranty.[7] This is commonly referred to as the "tie-in sales" provisions[8] and is frequently mentioned in the context of third-party computer parts, such as memory and hard drive

The federal minimum standards for full warranties are waived if the warrantor can show that the problem associated with a warranted consumer product was caused by damage while in the possession of the consumer, or by unreasonable use, including a failure to provide reasonable and necessary maintenance.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Magnuson–Moss_Warranty_Act

 

Down to 20 microns is good. May I ask where you got that from? Maybe the site will have data on the standard oil filter. Wonder what that filters down to and what the flow rate of both are. I also wonder if they have a bypass valve. Most street use filter do.

Another interesting post : https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/which-oil-filter-would-you-rather-use-trd-oem.738018/

 

Question for the engineers/experienced. What is better for an engine: a tighter filter that lets less particles through or a looser filter that lets oil flow through faster?

 

I use tampons

 

Kinda like this sticker adds 10 HP

 

I use the standard OEM filter in my crewmax.

 

I ran TRD filters and 7-10k intervals almost exclusively on my last tundra and Blackstone oil analyses always came back perfect. I'm running regular OEM on my current one though, just because I'm under extended warranty and FF calls for 5k intervals. So I'm getting the cheapest "good" filter and oil (M1 or Pennzoil with rebates).

 

I would say it depends on your application. When I put my car on track I put fresh racing oil and a racing Oil filter which flows 28 GPM and 61 micros for filtration. I change the oil and filter soon, unless I will track it again very soon after. For the street use I use a high grade oil and oil filter that flows 9 - 11 GMP with a filtration size 21 micros. On track you never want the engine to starve for oil with a high volume pump and need a oil filter that has can handle high flow. For my street cars that go many more miles between changes, flow rate is not in the filter is not as important (assuming your using the correct oil weight) and scrubbing the oil clean between changes is the priority.

Ninjajay is right on. The best way to monitor your engine is through engine oil analysis.

 

As a Mechancial Engineer, I designed (and patented) a spin-on oil filter adaptor kit for the Kawasaki Concours (ZG1000) motorcycle. I learned (after consulting with a few filter engineers at various filter manufacturers) that the smaller the particle to be filtered out, the more restrictive the filter is to oil flow, especially when cold.

This may seem to be in the best interest of the engine (filtering out tiny particles) but there are consequences. The more restrictive the filter is to flow, the more likely the bypass valve opens and allows unfiltered oil to flow (again, especially when cold). In my field testing of the adaptor kit, there was no way I could ascertain when oil was flowing through the filter or through the bypass valve.

Another consideration is the state of modern engine design and quality of lubricants available today. Our engines (if nothing is going wrong) typically do not generate many contaminates that need filtering to prevent damage. If something inside is self-destructing, then definitely the filter comes into play.

One other point for us is the oil grade Toyota specifies for the Tundra (0W-20). This is a free-flowing oil in lower temperatures and may be able to take advantage of a filter that filters out tiny particles. I don't have any knowledge to back that up but this is part of the equation.

Myself? I just stick with standard OEM filters and call it a day. I have more important things to worry about (Toyota has my back on this).

Dan

 

I just use the regular filter. It’s like $6.50 at the parts counter.

 

OEM in bulk and keep the receipts for records

 

I just stick to either OEM, K&N, Or Mobil 1. You can’t go wrong as long as you change them per the manual.

 

Can I ask a tangent question please...does anyone have the PNs for the standard and TRD filters? I couldn't find them in the manual and my limited searching hasn't found them here yet.

Yes, I'm being lazy tonight....but thanks

 

@Roman or call your dealership, give them your VIN#

 

I stick with OEM oil filter, $8 at dealer

 

Standard
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-oil-filter-04152yzza4

TRD
https://parts.toyotaofcoolsprings.com/oem-parts/toyota-trd-oil-filter-ptr4300081

$8? Man, I need to rethink our filter pricing....

 

$7 n change with tax $8

 

Oil filter flow capability and micron specs are completely different and separate specs that should never be lumped together.

You need to look at surface area of the medium as well. You can have a low micron number which inherently means lower flow, but if you add surface area the overall flow numbers will come up. It's hard to find all those specs until you start cutting filters apart.

Most "race" filters really focus on canister strength so they don't burst and oil the track or on flow rates due to sustained high rpm's. Some race organizations have prohibited Fram filters due to canister defects in the past. Nothing worse than oiled rear tires going into a turn.

 

If you had known the relief pressure that the engineers designed, you could figure oil is being bypassed as soon as the minimum valve-cracking oil pressure is reached. Tundra oil pressure gauges don't even have numbers on them.

I romped on my new C6 Corvette one cold morning, and it did something I'd never seen before...it "pegged the gauge" at 60 psi (5W30 Mobil 1, GM's UltraGold filter). Scared the crap out of me; I thought I had maybe collapsed the oil filter. Then, I realized that the oil filter bypass was designed for just that scenario. I had probably by-passed oil flow around the filter, and learned that jumping on a cold engine was really stupid. After that, no romping until the coolant and oil temperatures were up to normal.

I agree on using OEM filters. If Toyota engines will run for decades, even a million miles, using OEM filters, then why shoud anyone pay any more for a "premium" oil filter.

 

There is a bypass valve and pressure relief valve. The bypass valve allows flow to the engine if flow through the filter is restricted (cold oil, contaminated filter, etc.). Common spin-on oil filters have the bypass valve built into the filter. The opening forces vary but are typically within SAE HS806, ISO and NFPA standards. The oil pressure gauge doesn't know whether the bypass valve is open or not.

With engines such as the 4.6 and 5.7 Toyota V-8s, the bypass valve is internal. This is good for consistency.

OTH, the pressure relief valve regulates the oil pressure to the engine. The oil pump will typically deliver far more oil (pressure and volume) than is needed at any given moment. The relief valve opens sooner (in the rpm band) with cold oil and later with oil at operating temperature. This threshold is easily measured with an oil pressure gauge. I rigged one up on the Concours while doing operational testing of my spin-on kit and compared the readings to the stock setup. On the Concours, the regulated oil pressure was 40 psi.

I have had a regular routine with the Tundra (both my 2006 and the 2018). At startup I do nothing and watch the oil pressure gauge needle. When it stops moving (relief valve opening) I shift into reverse and back out of the garage. The gauge is damped so it is not real time but I use it as an indicator of stable oil pressure.

We are lucky we live in modern times with super high quality engines and excellent lubricants and filters. I was a part time mechanic back in the 60s and it was not uncommon for the engines of the time to need major work well before 100k miles (ring and valve jobs, complete overhauls, etc.).

Dan

 

My father didn't want a car after he rolled 30K on it as he had grown up in the 40s and 50s, 60s weren't much better. I remember working in a shop in the 70s and it was pretty common for a rebuild of 60s cars by the time they were pushing towards 100K

 

These are very good points. It was difficult to get operational specifications of commonly available spin-on oil filters. One could disassemble them and attempt to measure the surface area and calculate the flow rate based on the advertized filter "micron particle" size but that was above my abilities. I spoke with one filter engineer at a large name brand filter company that cautioned against using filters (of their own brand) that claimed they could filter out tiny particles because of the inherent flow restrictions. He characterized these filters as being designed this way for advertizing purposes mostly.

Dan