P0430

I just bought a 2011 Tundra with less than 100K on it.
Check engine light came on, so I ran a code reader on it and found a P0430. The vehicle's Engine Control Module (ECM) has detected that the Three-way Catalyst Converter is not working properly.
The most common fix for P0430 is:
1. A new catalytic converter, followed by replacing the Oxygen sensor.
2. An oxygen sensor not reading properly
3. an exhaust leak
4. malfunctioning secondary air injection system.
So, how do I tell which it is?
Exhaust isn't leaking anywhere I can tell. I mean, it looks like its all in good shape.
If its the O2 sensors, looks like it could be any of the 4, is there an easy way to tell which one?
Any ideas would be appreciated

 

Wrong forum. You want the 2nd gen forum.

 

Sorry, I saw I posted this in the wrong category and am not seeing a way to delete this. Should be in 2nd Gen

 

No worries, one of the mods will have to delete it or move it to the 2nd gen forum.

 

Before then, while we may not share the same platform (if you don’t have the 4.7 V8) this info may still help you: https://www.tundras.com/threads/bought-a-first-gen-everything-is-perfect-except.142470/#post-3584439

The no brainer way to rule out O2 is:

Go to www.densoautoparts.com

Plug in your truck info, and look at the air/fuel ratio sensor (aka “upstream O2 sensor”) and if their EXACT FIT (non-universal) version’s part number for your truck is the same on both banks, 1 and 2. Usually if they list “quantity: 2”, it’s identical between banks.

If it is, sanity check: Clear the codes. Swap the upstream O2 from driver to passenger side. Do you suddenly start popping a p0420 code, because the bad sensor moved to the other bank? If so, your problem is the O2 sensor. Replace the upstream and downstream on the driver side (since you moved the bad sensor from passenger to driver). Always replace the sensors in upstream/downstream pairs; they work together in pairs. ONLY use Debso parts from a known valid source like NOT scAmazon or fleaBay

 

You mean they're the same on both sides or front & rear?

 

I mean you need to look that up at www.densoautoparts.com

You didn't give me enough information about your truck to be able to look it up for you. In your truck info, you gave us the year (2011), the trim (SR5), but didn't say what cab type (single, access, double?), nor the engine in liters, nor whether it's 2WD or 4WD. If you want to give enough info to look this up, I'm happy to check it out for you. It'll take me about 2 minutes to do the legwork.

Please be sure to quote my reply here when you reply, so I get notified! I don't check this 2nd gen subforum nearly ever.

 

Ah, Sorry

Its a 2011 Tundra SR5 DoubleCab 4wd with the 5.7L V8

I looked it up
Denso
And at
Oreilly's

 

First of all, fuck parts stores. They sell shit products. Do anything you can to avoid buying parts for your Toyota at local parts stores. The quality of aftermarket parts has absolutley gone down the shitter in the last 10-15 years due to this overwhelming desire to drive profits at the consumer's expense. We literally have 3 people on the 1st page of the 1st gen forum right now whose trucks aren't functioning because they believe parts-store-parts are still as good today as they were 20, 30, 40 years ago.

They're not. They sell products from companies who take any core they can get, ship them to sweatshops in Asia to be rebuilt at the lowest possible cost, minimal (if any) QA/QC testing for function, then ship them back to the US for distribution. DOA products are so common, the better parts stores will throw the part on a test bed BEFORE selling to you to make sure it's not DOA, because they don't want you to come back in angry at them when they install a dead part. The "Lifetime warranty" is not there because "quality" it's because "it's a shitty part, and you'll be back to exchange it".

OEM lasted you how many years now? Go OEM. And that doesn't mean, "Go give your whole paycheck to the Toyota stealership". If you know who made the OEM part for Toyota, you can save oodles of cash. Toyota outsourced to a very limited window of vendors for stuff. Denso for electronics, sensors, fuel pump, starter, cooling system, AC. Aisin for mechanical parts like the water pump. Spicer for driveshafts, joints, and other driveline products. Some oddballs (at least for 1st gen) like Hitachi made our MAF, and Fujitsu made a lot of our audio equipment.

Beyond that lecture, back to solving your problem.

I have good news. Denso shows "2" upstream O2/AF Sensors for your truck on the DIRECT FIT (i.e. non-Universal) sensor, so the part is the same for banks 1 and 2. The downstream you CANNOT swap. That means you can do 50% of the test I'd want to do - 50% because we don't know: Is it your passenger upstream sensor sending bunk info to the ECU causing a bad delta, or is it the passenger downstream sending bunk info to the ECU causing a bad delta? We know whatever is happening it's on the passenger side, because P0430 (bank 2/passenger cat inefficiency). If it was P0420, we'd be focused on bank 1/passenger side.

Also, some bad news. The upstream sensors are around $130 each. The downstream LEFT (driver side) is only $55. But the downstream RIGHT (passenger side) is $105, so if it is in fact a downstream sensor, you can't just swap side-to-side, you'll hafta buy a replacement sensor. So ... fingers crossed.

What the hell would I do?

Swap your upstream sensors, since the Denso OEM part number is identical, they're the same. Unplug, transfer side to side, re-plug, then clear any stored codes and fire it up.

Does the code continue popping P0430, or is it now P0420?

If it's changed to P0420, replace the sensor [that's now on] driver's side upstream. And change out the downstream on driver's side too, it's (fortunately) only $50ish more, and it's better to change in pairs. Or hell, if you got $450 burning a hole in your pocket, change all four and enjoy another 13-15 years of not having to do this job again, because if you buy anything other than Bosch from the local auto parts store (Bosch is about the only other brand I'd trust for these sensors), you'll be doing this again in 3-5 years.

If it's stayed at P0430, and you have a code scanner that will show live data, and/or a heat gun (both are tools you should own for shit like this) look at my next reply after this one.

​

 

Watch this video, starting at 1m34, if it doesn't auto-start in that spot for you. Project Farm is such an awesome, quality channel. Guy is a badass. He'll show you how to use a scanner and a heat/temp guage to suss out a bad cat and/or bad sensor.

PS - welcome to the forum

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jS957rtbcjY#t=1m34s​

 

I served with him in the Air Force. We didn't know eachother well, just chatted a few dozen times, but I'll tell you. He's a really, REALLY sharp guy.

 

Stores like autozone and advanced auto, yes, I agree.
These Denso are OE on Toyota and are available at Oreilly's.
the rest, solid advice. I'll let ya'll know how it turns out tomorrow.

 

It's all solid advice. Denso are OE, and also available at NAPA too. If you hate your money, you hate your money, or maybe you love spending 20%+ more for instant gratification, but Summit often has next-day shipping available on the same parts for significantly less than your "buy local" tax, I have one local to me for direct pickup, and they typically do 2-day free ship from what I've seen.

See below, the numbers don't lie, they even beat scAmazon / fleaBay much of the time, and without the risk of getting counterfeit parts you have using those two shitholes. You wanna pay 25%+ more $$ to buy the exact same product locally, from a national chain? I'm a NAPA guy myself, but sadly there's a "NAPA tax" on everything. O'reillys can go suck a bag of chubs. Clueless staff, ill-equipped stores, poor inventory, yadda yadda, and many of the parts they sell like Ultima, Wlson, Power Torque, Beck Arnley, TRQ, it's all shitware. I'll buy a lot of things from Advance because you get Fuel Rewards points for gas discounts, and you can use online coupon codes to get the price down 10-20% on plenty of things for store pickup, stomping everyone else in the dirt (and almost getting prices down to Summit Racing levels).

Anyway, let us know how you fare. Please tag me on the back side. Hopefully there's enough info above to help you sort things!

​

 

The NAPAs here are sky-high. $215 for that part here.
Just found it on PartsGeek for $75 less, including 3 day shipping.
Just need to find the time to go swap those things over and see if that's actually the issue.

 

I've never been clear on Partsgeek's supply chain. Like, who holds their inventory? Where do they source products? Am I getting authentic product, or is it another scAmazon/fleaBay situation, where you may be getting grey market or even knockoff products?

I know RockAuto and Summit have a clean, verified supply chain, so I usually shop online through them, unless the local parts store pricing is within 10%-20% because then I can use coupons to get it closer and enjoy instant gratification. But it's suspicious to me, when you're dealing in the kind of volume someone like Summit Racing and RockAuto does, which allows them to be 30-40% cheaper than most national parts chains because they're hitting numbers on volume sold, how is it that Parts Geek is able to be 30-40% lower than Summit and RA? Summit is HUGE in the hotrod/auto enthusiast scene.

When I want OEM, if that's interesting to you, I've been doing a lot of shopping with Serra Toyota of Birmingham Alabama, I specifically avoid their Decatur dealership because they have an unreliable dick working for them named Eric, who won't account for his/the team's mistakes. But the big bonus is, if you shop online through the Birmingham storefront (link) you get anywhere from 10-40% off MSRP your local parts counter will charge, they ship free on anything over $75 (up to $400 in shipping cost), and they don't charge tax, at least for me, living out of state.

At the end of the day, I always tell other members on here, "you do you", as in, do whatever supports your level of comfort. I've personally received too many counterfeit/knockoff appliance, small engine, and automotive parts on scAmazon and fleaBay to buy. I've even gotten counterfeits while adding to cart directly on a name brand vendor's storefront, because scAmazon always defaults to give you the lowest price option. It's such a joke.